Russell griffiths

I think on the nudura you tube vids they cut the blocks into slices and glue back together to make the correct shape. If you make a ply wood template you could pre cut and glue using the template and carry over in one piece to place in the wall adding reo could be a challenge. Are you bays semi circular? Or segmented like a 50p we used to make a template / profile when doing curved brickwork. I think a similar thing would work.

Is this temporary or permanent? i have found even with the black membrane you will get weeds they can grow from top down as well as from bottom up you will find you will get weeds from any form of seed spread be it the wind or birds or you wheeling the mower across the surface. Unless this is going to be the mutts nuts finished article I think I wouldn’t bother with the membrane. Get some roundup and give it a spray every now and again to keep the edges tidy.

E bay.

So they are screwed together, do they not have a ridge beam under them? This isn’t a detail I have seen before, has this been drawn up like this for you? Just spotted the big purlin built into the blockwork. Carry on ?

I would say raise the wall plate as well. What is going on with those rafters in the second pic? do you intend bolting them together or something?

get that wood burning stove back in. ???????

Come on then, you supply the beer I’ll bring me hammer, once we rip it all out there’s no turning back im really good at making a mess and then running away???‍♂️

Well done chap. ?

Our first house was a bit crap like yours seems to be mr @Onoff and we used to get out of the bath and get into bed, the curtains used to flutter in the draft from the single glazed windows. I think the only way to tackle it is head on, smash bang wallop. Move bedrooms downstairs, and completely gut upstairs ceilings down window trims all off floors up strip all walls strip out the dormers a complete gut. Then rewire re plumb re insulate re board flooring back decorate. Then move back upstairs making a temp living room in a bedroom,and a small kitchenette go downstairs and gut that same as upstairs rip it all out you cant take any prisoners get in and smash it out i think if you go about this half a room at a time patching this and that I think you will struggle to get on top of it. Only my point of view obviously, please feel free to ignore everything I say or tell me to get knotted. As a side view it looks like you have a nice big garden and a rear access. Anychance of getting consent for a new build there. How about a little granny annex. Build the new one, move into that while you refurb the big one, then move back in and your left with a nice little rental at the bottom of the garden. Any chance. We have consent for a two bay garage with granny annex above went through planning without a blink of an eye.

I watched a you tube vid and since brought a doctors stethoscope, I now need to work out a way to connect the stethoscope to a long metal spike to stab in the ground. Always seems to be a project to do in the garage.

ive Been doing a bit of internet browsing and started to find 50mm pipe at better prices so will do a bit more leak hunting, tbh I didn’t know you could put a camera down a water main I thought it was only for drain surveys so I might be able to find one of the joints. These must be the first point to look for a leak or at least an ideal place to run a new section from. Thanks all.

Where did it go?

What you need is what we have done to our crappy house. Im a little bit frightened to say it. you need a wood burner, we have one in the boot room and keep it going 90% of the time from November onwards, the wife can dry a machine load of washing in under a couple of hours it super heats that end of the house which in turn helps the rest, we have solid concrete floors straight on the dirt with chipboard on battens on top, solid 9” block walls with pebbledash and chipboard on battens on the walls. Unless we have been away for a few days it is toasty, it may not be what you want long term, but it was the best £1000 I’ve spent on the place total transformation.

We have a 50mm main that is fed from a metre via a 25mm pipe. Unsure how this all works, but it’s been like it 20 years with no problems.

Any links to a reasonable pressure gauge? will I need one for testing ufh and other services in the new place? If this is the case should I get a better quality one? my incoming main is 50mm that reduces to 32mm which then has 20mm tees of it to feed various standpipes and our old cabin, will taking a reading at one of these 20mm pipes give a false reading should I go back to the 32mm to do the pressure test? Cheers.

Evening, could be a couple of questions here mixed together, if we get planning I’m going to have to put in a new main as the one we have is leaking, so what would be your preferred size for a main pipe that has to run a distance of aprox 110m the house will have 3 beds all with en-suite all with showers, also a cloakroom with toilet and kitchen and laundry. Cheers for your input.

We are thinking of hidden gutters, but will do it in fibre glass as it’s cheaper than getting anything folded up and it’s easy to lay it in to a preformed ply box with the falls built in. I have just put a fibreglass roof on our kitchen and was very impressed with the finish and tough feel to it.

The only things I will add is DONT skimp on safety, if you are saving some money on doing the roofing yourself then you can afford good scaffolding, no wobbly tower. get some help for 2 days and a tile bumper and get all the slate up, then you can plod on at your own pace.

I think I would postpone until you can get some doors on and a bit of heat in the house. You shouldn’t plaster if at anytime in the drying process the temp drops anywhere near 2 degrees, it would be nicer if it was 5 and rising. i would board up all openings and hire a site heater and warm the place up before they start and keep it warm until they finish. A couple of those oil filled rads on wheels will take the chill off, and you can pick them up really cheap. Remember warm, not hot. Or it will dry to quick

Ok that’s sorted then all over it is. Cheers.

Tbh regarding the planning I like the single story concept, what I don’t get is why you can’t get a straight one to one man to man answer out of the ? btw our last 3 houses have all been single storey.

Your lucky it’s not in Chinese like a lot of stuff. Some of the translations make me laugh.

So in my mind I think I’ve got this sorted but after some far more educated opinions. So due to our planning officer ? can you tell I like him. We are redesigning and going to end up single story. Ie a bungalow, so 3 bedrooms downstairs, so do I put underfloor heating in the 3 bedrooms and look for a low tog carpet or no ufh in the bedrooms and put in a different type of heat, rad, electric radiator, i am concerned if I don’t put it in I will have a floor slab with large unheated areas which will lead to cold spots dragging heat from the heated areas I will also have an ensuite in each bedroom so will have to get the pipe work in there which means crossing the bedroom floors if I want to avoid going under internal walls. Cheers russ.

I seem to be going around in circles, I originally wanted to stick build on site as I had done this previously, but then moved towards icf after reading a couple of blogs and doing a bit of research. Our new house design has some large roof overhangs 1.5m in places so I thought I would need a company like Cullen to design the roof structure, so started to do some more looking at projects that they do, and here I am looking at timber frame again. Im sure life’s not meant to be this hard.

Just a couple of ideas Is the cavity staying open? can you not close the cavity with a block on it’s side with a damp course between the outer block and this block on its side then put a wall plate on the inner block 50mm high then have some insulation 50mm high in the cavity area, sit your joists on the wall plate, build your new studwork off of the joists. Just an idea.