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Everything posted by Russell griffiths
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All the prices quoted by everyone are what I had in mind i had estimated between £1200 to £1500 plus vat going with the thought that they may need to poke down a bit more you could say a couple of grand. But where the bloody hell did they get £3500 plus vat. Obviously very busy and can be choosing what they do as they also said 3-4 week lead time with another 3 weeks to get the report back.
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Barn floor - does lowering it cost a lot more?
Russell griffiths replied to Roz's topic in Barn Conversions
As cpd said, not wanting to tell you how to suck eggs, but After you get stuck into that shell you will wonder why you didn’t knock it down and start a fresh. Got anymore pics.- 9 replies
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- concrete slab
- barn conversion
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No site stripping needed house is raised 450mm above existing ground level to account for flood risk. We think we are sitting on a couple of metres of fill as I’ve done a test hole with the digger and didn’t like what I found. This is our site the lake sits at about 700mm below the grass level, so digging down any more than that normally leaves you with wet feet, the house is to be raised 450above the grass level in the pic, so above the 1 in 100 year flood risk even though if that lake was to rise more than 300mm half of the south of England would have long disappeared. Who are we to argue.
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In there e mail it just states that having consulted local geological mapping we propose two test holes to 10-12 m. I would be very surprised if the percussion rig will hammer down past 6 but what do I know
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So the first quote I have had is for two test holes down to a depth of ten metres £2200 soil testing at lab. £350 final analysing and report. £1000 all prices plus vat. OMFGG. If @vivienz or @willbish could give me some details I would appreciate it. Do you think your bloke has the equipment to go to a depth of 10m.
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Oh how I laughed today when I opened the e mail from a geotechnical company with an estimate to carry out a soil investigation has anybody got any info on what sort of money they paid for one. The spec in their quote was for two percussion driven holes to a depth of 10m soil sample analysed at their lab and and findings detailed we have a seperate structural engineer doing the design of the foundations so this is just to analyse the soil makeup when ive stopped laughing I will post up the cost. Thanks for any help pi##ed off from Cirencester.
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Bit thick here as well have you not paid a deposit and agreed on a sale price.
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If you go mid week there will be no staff on any stand, it is a brilliant place, but if you are going to the nec one then,there is not a lot of point as you would have seen it all there. I live about half an hour away and pop in regularly, but normally to pick up a brochure, not to talk to anybody as most of the stands are unmanned.
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Posijoist ducting and runs, how.
Russell griffiths replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Floor Structures
I think plastic is something to look into. Try to imagine how you get a 3m length of copper through the middle of those posi joists ? -
We are in a very high water level area, did you have a flood risk assessment done ? we have, so the new house basically sits above any future flood level. Have you not had to do this and design out the risk.
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I will need a fair amount but I haven’t even started digging yet, so not something I really want to spend out on yet.
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Why not buy a nice light ally tower and when you finish the build you can sell all the Kwickstage and keep the ally one for any maintenance you do in the future. Hurry up and get finished and I will have your kwickstage.
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Do you need to set this out at all ? can the main structural elements not be built and then internal walls added as you see what the space looks like all you need to have set in stone would be stair locations and soil pipes for drains the rest could be constructed as an empty box as your span from side to side should not dictate that you need any of the interior walls for structural purposes. Just an idea.
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What @IanR said makes a lot of sense, did the flow able concrete get under the insulation and actually lift it rather than the insulation actually floating. Highlighting what went wrong could help others avoid this horrible experience.
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Thanks for that chaps, at those sort of prices I don’t think I will even bother looking into doing it myself.
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Bottom driven piles.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Thanks for that can you give me a rough idea on price. I know price will be dependent on many things but it might give me something to go on. 10m is fairly deep your ground must have been double crap. I have a few reasons for wanting to use this method which I will go into if it ever happens. -
Could anybody tell me roughly what I will pay to get a sap assessment ready for building regs. I think a few of you on here have done your own, how complicated is this, I’m just a thicko, but the wife’s the intellectual so I may have to get her involved. Cheers russ.
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Bottom driven piles.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I’ve had a good look at your pics @recoveringacademic And I think we will struggle to get the rig around a 90degree corner we have, that’s very quick 64 in a day. What did you put on top a slab or strip footings. -
Bottom driven piles.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
@Mr Punter any idea why they used this method if it was a pain. This is a method used locally as an auger type pile still needs a tube around it to stop the hole caving in i like the idea as I think we will struggle to get a big rig on site @recoveringacademic mr punter described it perfectly I’ve looked at your ground improving method and think the set up is to big to get down our access track. -
Did it look like they were using a standard width block and adding sheet insulation.
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Anybody used one of the steel tube type pile systems just had a chat with a structural engineer who has done a couple of jobs local to me, and even though we haven’t had our soil survey done yet I’m doing a bit of research just in case.
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This is the problem we get, that’s why I thought the hairdryer might work. Ho hum. Think again.
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Will you try something just to humour me? use your hairdryer gently and warm up an area, just see if it goes away. We get clouding under lacquer on a different material and it is normally moisture.
