Russell griffiths

You need to look at the ground it’s sitting on and how you will provide insulation to the building, under the raft or on top. Is this to provide accommodation or just a games room.

No, use local authority, nothing wrong with them, you will get more attention and faster response as they are local e mail in the morning site visit 24-48 hours later. Private company you will be lucky if they even come out.

I stick framed my last place on site, you will save a big chunk of cash, but it will take ages, just depends if you can spend 6-8 weeks chopping up timber versus 2 days and a crane to get a factory one put up. There’s a company called Cullen timber engineering that do a lot of design details.

Why is everyone moving these cylinders. Our supplier turns up swaps the empty one over and hands over the invoice. I haven’t touched one in years.

Ok, cool it is nice stuff.

Any reason you want birch ply.

Hi @Budgie if you put an @ before a users name it highlights them and sends them a notification like this @ICF I think he’s replying to you bud. ?

That’s about right, mine was around £800 for whole house.

If it’s settled, is it going to go any further, might have gone as far as it’s going.

On a different path, if it was to fall down could you get consent for a new build, whats the plot worth, could you get two on there, sell a plot and build on the other. Do you you have any outside pics. I know a particularly affluent developer who lets places fall down on purpose to avoid renovating old rubbish. It could be time to let this one go, unless you have some sort of desire to keep it, I’m afraid I’m not very sentimental about these over listed buildings.

I really really hate the way places have a listed status, I would go back to the conservation officer and ask for a site meeting, you need to lay your cards on the table and be really honest. That place looks like it’s on the verge of a major collapse, maybe a whole floor, you really shouldn’t be living in it. I would push to get it de listed and get more quotes to remove all timber and replace whiteout the constraints of the listing, you could get quotes from more builders instead of the dry rot guys, most of that work is fairly standard work. As stated previously how about moving out into the outbuildings, you need to be warm and comfortable to be able to concentrate on doing this, your health suffering will not help you finish this. Under the listing status, if you pull down all the ceilings to do the structural repairs are they going to want all the cornice replaced as original, this could cost you thousands. Its not just the structural stuff, you have £50,000 to spend on that place once the structural stuff is done.

I would be more concerned about it being too hot in the summer, unless it is shaded. Flat versus pitch is really down to the look you want. Have you priced up a roof lantern that big. And the weight of it. I bet that’s over 200kg, you won’t be picking it up on your shoulder and carrying it up a ladder. Architects like to draw things without much thought on how to build it.

I personally feel it will be a mistake to not have a door that needs painting, if in 5 years time they have picked up marks from the hoover and other every day chores it’s a simply job to flat them down and roller on a top coat. If you go for something fancy you will find they look tired but cannot be tidied up, so you leave them and they get worse until you replace them again.

I have managed to return my manifold and pump and I have a new low temperature mixer from IVAR coming with an IVAR manifold. Supposed to be the rolls Royce version. @Nickfromwales it’s all your fault. ??

Why not a plastic tank and backfill with concrete. IBC WATER TANK dig a hole 300mm bigger in all directions, drop in tank and concrete all around. But time you buy the concrete you could go and collect two sewer rings. Do you have a trailer ? if it was me I would go to local concrete pipe place and collect a couple of damaged ones.

How about a couple of concrete sewer rings on top of each other. What sort of size is it.

Edit your post @Dreadnaught, I think you meant 32mm not 22mm.

Expect to pay lots. My friend did a house a few years ago with machine made clay and got them direct from a company in France and saved a bundle.

I think you will be surprised at the amount of work, it is certainly not a small job. Make sure you have your details right around those windows so they don’t clash with a seam. Houses near me that have lots of roof windows have custom width sheets around the windows.

I personally wouldn’t do anything. Get a leaf blower on it the day before the guys turn up and give it a tidy up.

I used SEVERN BORE PILING. VERY GOOD. If you have to pile a bit I think you will have to pile all of it, it’s unusual to mix foundation types because of differential movement.

About £35 a meter for materials, and the same for fitting, I did mine myself and saved a big chunk. I used metal solutions, ask for Kevin tell him I sent you, I was originally going with Tata / catnic until I found metal solutions.

I would say the price in the first post is about right. I had a quote of £12,000 to fit 350m so about £35 a M.

Isn’t that the whole idea, to isolate the tiles from the base, if your screed grows and shrinks with the underfloor heating but your tiles don’t grow to the same amount then they need de-coupling from each other. @nod what is the standard spec now in commercial builds, matting or no matting.

Hole should be bigger. 110mm pipe but collar needs 125-130 mm hole.