Russdl

My MacBook Air has been running Skectchup since mid 2013 without a hitch and I have some very detailed models. The more textures and layers you use the slower it gets.

My MVHR vents will be going through the gable end and the current terminal of choice has a very coarse mesh that may stop a horse, but not a horsefly, which means the horsefly will be stopped by the main filter within the MVHR unit. I was thinking of making a couple of large boxes to go inside the thermal envelope, positioned just after the ducts enter the thermal envelope and just before the MVHR unit. Within the boxes I would have a fine filter (net curtain, stockings?) that is easily accessible and cleaned and will keep the horseflies out of my MVHR unit. Has anyone done such a thing? If the home made filter box is airtight enough is this a viable plan?

We've got some fairly tricky little areas to 'mesh' and noticed the roofers using EPDM sponge under the ridge as an insect mesh. This would be ideal for our needs and I've found a supplier who will cut a 2000x1000x50 sheet into 50mm strips so we'll end up with 50x50x2000 strips of the EPDM sponge to squeeze into a 30mm gap and let it expand and do it's job. Does any one see a fatal flaw in this plan before I go for it? Here's a small section of the sponge the roofers used (the stuff I'm looking at is flat, not undulating).

What on earth are they? Isn't that something to do with wine making? (Google says its a game of some description)

@lizzie Thanks Lizzie, I guess it's looking tip-top. How long has it been on?

Never heard of it! Everyday is still a school day. Sounds horrible...

Thanks @Mr Punter It will have to be on render carrier board. Does that mean 'use a cement render and paint it'?

@nod Thanks, and the "too much movement - it WILL crack" comments, are they unfounded?

We are experiencing lots of teeth sucking regarding render and timber frames, which is a bit of a worry as we planned on the ground floor of our timber frame new build being rendered. We've had comments from numerous individuals which sum up to something like "you shouldn't render on a timber frame, far too much movement'" etc. Looking through BH it looks like there are plenty of MBC frames out there with render, is it lasting well? Is there a preferred system that will look crisp and smart for decades and can you invisibly repair it should the need arise? Is there a system to avoid at all costs?

@Stones @Declan52 thanks for that feed back, it seems more 'quality' issues than 'performance' issue then.

I'm in the process of choosing our MVHR unit and whilst scouring this resource for insight I found the above comment from @Stones. Stones, would you elaborate on why you would look for something other than the Vent Axia if you were to do it again?

@JSHarris Excellent. Just that little tip is probably going to save £50 going in to the swear jar!

I'm resurrecting this thread in the search for advice on getting cables through the timber frame, we clearly are not so far along the build process as @ragg987 , our MBC timber frame has only just gone up but we have no cellulose insulation yet. There are various places where we would like outside lights, power for blinds and sockets etc. What is the best way to do it? Just get a chuffing great long drill (as per @JSHarris) drill a pilot hole all the way through the frame and then a hole saw inside and outside and slide the conduit in, or is that old school and there is an even smarter way of doing it these days?

That's good thinking, I'll file that one away for future reference. ?

Just holding the GRP in place.

We are planning on using Phantom Screens externally on some of our windows and sliders. They will be concealed in the space available behind the cladding plus the timber frame will be recessed above the windows/sliders that we plan to screen. Their website has links to sectional drawings and further technical bumpf. Never used them before so I can’t comment on their effectiveness, ease of cleaning etc. https://www.phantom-fly-screens.co.uk/power-blinds-up-to-12m-wide.html

@Pete Thanks for the offer! The GRP will be tied to to the slab via 100mm M10 bolts that will be in-bedded in the slab, so not directly tied to the mesh. I guess I'm just worrying over nothing - but that is my way!!

The raft foundation gang have been in today, loads of them and great progress. I heard a cuss as one of the gang had broken the upstand off a piece of the EPS which I was assured would be fixed. When I returned to site the fix was in place, but as you'll see from the pics the fix, using a bit of spare EPS, the depth of the upstand is reduced from the original. We have GRP angles that will sit on the upstand and be keyed to the slab. With the 'fix' there will be a small void between the GRP and that thinner bit of upstand. Should I insist on a replacement piece of EPS that matches the original or will it bit ok with the answer I'm expect when I see them tomorrow, that they will pack it out and everything will be ok? Difficult to see in the pictures, but the depth of the upstand in the replacement piece of EPS is probably 20mm less than the original.

Ok, thanks Nick. Harry did say that out of the numerous slabs he'd installed he knew of about 3 people who'd tested before the screed, so I'll go with the flow, not test it, and keep my fingers crossed.

I'd read that and interpreted it as 'don't bother' though he doesn't use those words. I don't. But I was looking at buying the manifold, fitting it (dangling freely in the air, supported on some Heath Robinson timber frame) and filling all the circuits with water to about 3 bar, because 3 bar is about all I've got. Would that suffice as a test kit?

Harry is the only name I have so far, I'll let you know when I meet them tomorrow. ~~~~~ Doh! There you go, two Guru's with polar opposite views.

Help! Our MBC slab with UFH arrives tomorrow. Whilst I don't know the exact timescale I suspect there won't be many days (if any) between the UFH pipe being laid and the screed covering it. I'd forgotten that MBC don't do a pressure test of the UFH pipes, and I've just reminded myself! Do I need to do a pressure test before the screed covers the UFH pipes, there seems to be a mix of views here?

Aside from the services, asbestos, and the Demolition Notice, we didn't knowingly follow any other rules. As I said, the services were a pain to co-ordinate and pricey. The asbestos was expensive. Submitting the Demolition Notice was easy. Demolition was the easiest.

We demolished a conventionally constructed bungalow ourselves. Getting the services removed/relocated was the biggest game for us, the unexpected asbestos soffits was the biggest and most costly surprise. We got on the roof to remove the roof tiles and slid them down scaffold planks laid on ladders (worked really well). They were very common concrete tiles and initially no one wanted them, for money or free, but we did finally find a taker who removed them from our site. The roof timbers were removed and stored on site, many have been reused in making a welfare unit (shed) and WC (smaller shed) that is plumbed into the existing main drain. All the Critall windows were removed and all pipes and wire - in fact anything with metal in it, and sold to the local scrap metal dealer, which produced quite a surprising return. The walls were knocked down with a mini digger and loaded by hand into an enormous ro-ro skip at the 'clean inert waste' rate. It then got muddy, very muddy, and we ended up with a few skips with mud and rubble which cost significantly more to get rid of. Quotes from local skip firms should give you some figures Regarding legislation obviously you'll need the planning permission and then the Section 81 demolition notice but we never got round to the 'method statement' for the demolition because it kind of fell down all too quickly, and no questions have ever been asked, but I guess as it was us demolishing our house no one was really that interested.

Oh, I'll definitely do that.