Cpd

after some long and arduous research recently I have settled on this fan, I have not got it yet but unless I find something better for my needs then this is my top contender https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VQV9GXM/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A3VC26QI8E5QU5&psc=1 my second choice for a more simple solution would be https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CR5Y8NK/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=AFMJ21AVPSGJK&psc=1 as I said I have not got them just done quite a lot of internet cross referencing

I have temp and humidity sensors and I take on board what folk say about Co2 following RH but I live so close to the sea on the west coast of Scotland where for the last two months its rained nearly EVERY bloody day...... RH is always high.... and I just want to be able to clearly record and monitor Co2 as I am trying various different approaches to ventilation in about 4 different buildings. I just find it frustrating that it’s not easy...... unless your an computer and engineering alchemist!

Its soooo frustrating being a Luddite..... I would love a working Co2 monitor and recorder but both the above information and the links to the hardware just leave me completely bamboozled why you just can’t buy a semi decent one that is plug and play for sensible money is very frustrating. Ok rant over. @joth Well done mate, your like an alchemist in my eyes.

I’ve had quite a bit of stuff stolen over the years when working in Australia, the most classic was when we were working in a bit of national park, about 10 minutes walk uphill on a Bush track to the nearest road head, we were building a board walk and had all the power tools ect, had a few sites over about 100m of track. Stopped for lunch and we all sat down at the end of the site as it had the best views and after lunch one of my lads comes up and says someone has pinched the generator !!! Bloody big thing that’s a struggle to lift with two strong blokes. the most frustrating was when I had 10k worth of stone delivered to site in the afternoon and by morning when we turned up it was all gone !!!!!!! Two bloody trucks worth. Thank god i had it clearly stated in my contract that when the stone was delivered to site the council would have to take full responsibility for it as I was unable to secure insurance for it. Part of the reason for living where I do is to avoid all the worry of such crap, I have not locked my house door in seven years (there is no lock.....) and I don’t think there has EVER been a robbery or crime committed in the whole community since the 70s when some friends of “my nice” decided to use a remote farm house as a pit stop for an international dope smuggling exercise........

This is what I have always done but with a small metal bit and never bothered heating it as I did not know about it making it easier, having Been a stone mason most of my life and having half a dozen workers I have seen sooo many crushed fingers.......

Nice to potentially find the holy grail of expanding foam !

Possibly have the site nice and clean, build up the shuttering and then put loads of aggregate / hardcore around the shuttering to support it and after the pour spread out the aggregate so that you have a nice clean environment to carry out the rest of your build. I think someone has done it and posted about it before but can’t remember who.....

That’s what I have done in my cottage, the only place the framework touches the walls is where I have put in the timber pegs / nogs / dukes....(not sure correct terminology) to secure the frame to, normally I have a gap of between a 20-50mm. One day I will have to use a thermal imaging camera to see if it made any significant difference.

Not been keeping up with this thread.... did you buy, rent or borrow the C3 ? Useful bit of kit. What would you do next time to limit the cold bridging ?

this is where a 3D printer could be useful

having suffered from Chronic fatigue syndrome (not mould related in my case ...) I did a lot of reading and I was amazed at how many people with M.E / CFS found that either sorting the mould problem out or moving house resulted in a big improvement in there health. I live in an old uninsulated house that is a prime candidate for mould and it’s something I am always aware of and try to make sure it does not get the chance to form.

Hmm burn it and cause pollution but get to recycle it... dump it in landfill and no recycling.... it’s a no win situation ......or be a complete optimist and put it in the shed and assume there WILL be a use for it at some point..... I was very pleased when I got to use some of my long kept off cuts to roof my water treatment plant ! ....not so mad now I thought .....

I feel for you man, what a saga. But hay next time you will be a pro. We all make mistakes and Ive made plenty. I have the upmost respect for people when they come on this forum and say “” I messed up” how do I fix it and we all get to see how to fix it and how not to do it in the future. These fixings are great but as I said you need to get it just right otherwise the fabric / rubber on the washer gets over compressed and it does not re expand.

Visited a camping site recently where they had very good compost Loos, simple instructions on the wall and as @Jilly says no smell and the chap running the place said it was very easy to set up and maintain. I think They had straw in the bace of big buckets to soak up the pee ! When one bucket was full it was put to “compost” and a new one was put in. Looked like a good system.

https://www.cladco.co.uk/fixings-and-accessories/screws-to-wood-with-a-19mm-bonded-washer-pack-of-100 take your pick, depends how far you can go in. They are very good but you need to be carful not to over tighten them as you will distort the tin. If you over tighten one then back it of but check the washer as often it will have been distorted and you will need to replace the whole fixing to get a good seal.

WOW !!!!! What craftsmanship. What a nice present and a good friend.

Wood burners etc...... This is one of those situations where there is a clear line in the sand and some people are firmly on one side with placards and reams of information and the others are in there comfy chair with a single malt watching the flames flicker..... Let’s not get to bogged down on this subject every time it comes up..... reminds me of thermal mass.......

Yup.... they leave there business cards on my landrover window all the time........

While standing outside your 2.5 million dollar property......... only kidding, good strategy if it’s in context.

Tricky one.....when I used to quote For work on a regular basis it was for the full job, everything was itemised and it was very clear what was included. If I got it wrong then I would have to just suck it up and cover the extra costs. However if there was an anomaly on the job that could not be seen During the survey (I was building a road once and there was a hidden cave bellow the road...) then after a meeting that extra work would be carried out at the agreed (at the start of the contract) day / hourly rate and any additional materials would also be covered by the client. Once your quote was in and it had been accepted there was no going back and revising it...... this was all government contracts so slightly different.

That’s a bit better and if you take into consideration coming out to quote, purchasing all the right bits, install and clean up and a wage for two people + the expense of running a company then it’s probably about the best your going to get. If you don’t have the time or interest to do it yourself and can write of the cash then it’s a quick way to get the job done. Simple.

As always @Russell griffiths solid looking job, if I as doing it all again then this would be how my roof prep work would look. Bombproof

Yup time to go back to basics......

I really like the idea of these but am scared to look into what they cost !

No I have a vented area of 50mm above the insulation and below the sarking running up between each joist. my vcl is behind the plasterboard but all the insulation is fully fitted and foamed / taped at each layer. there is No where for air to move between the layers of insulation as there are no gaps. the vented area is open at the bottom of the roof with soffit vents and open at the top with roof vents as well as a 200mm open vented triangle just below the ridge. air freely moves in this area, you will of course get air flowing up beneath the tin in each of the curves / profiles as they are open at the bottom and open at the top as I said probably not the text book roof but it seems to be working well, I expect if you did a condensation risk analysis then it would show potential problems with the joists but due to my windy location I am happy with how it works. I have also read that you can fully fill with the correct build up but I have always felt that should there be any issues with damp then I want it capable of drying out ASAP. My shed roof is far more basic and until I decide on whats going on in there I will keep my options open.