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Declan52

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Everything posted by Declan52

  1. A smallish new smart TV (32 inch) will have access to BBC iPlayer, itv player, all 4 and 5 on demand. Being smart the guests can use Netflix and any other range of similar streaming services and cast these to the TV.
  2. The council fine isn't that much it more depends on if someone has an accident on the road that isn't really your fault but you get blamed on it as your signage isn't correct. Every job I done on the road I had to take pics of the signs I set out to prove it was done right to cover my own ass just incase. People walking by move signs or knock them over same goes with cars and the wind from buses and lorries going by. How busy a road is it and is it just digging in the verge or will you be opening up the road. Makes a big difference in the reinstating cost.
  3. Don't think the original plans had the dormers in the roof either. Was there not an episode of grand designs where a guy made a big mistake with his levels and made the house to tall and just cut the peak straight across and put a small flat roof section on to get it below whatever the max height was.
  4. If the hatch is shared then there is bound to be wayleaves put in place to allow both parties access to do what ever needs done.
  5. Def put enough on to cover yourself. How wide are the founds?? Could you get the cavity to 125mm or maybe a slight bit more.
  6. Any firm that does this kind of work will have guys who have done the street works course. It's the law. You have to have done the course to be able to work on the roads. There will generally be a couple of guys with the operator card and one guy with the supervisor card. I had the supervisor card.
  7. I used the Kingspan boards for mine. They had small fins on them to maintain a narrow gap at the face side. They are very dense so not easily cut straight. Build the cavity 10mm wider as the fins will push the soft side out of plumb. Cost wise when you are doing it the boards will be more expensive to buy plus more costly time wise to lay and then you have how many gaps you will leave. No way would I have let anyone else do mine as they just wouldn't have been able to take their time plus build enough blocks to make a wage. It would be the wider cavity and beads for me.
  8. A dry retaining wall requires no concrete so is much cheaper. Only other thing is use some concrete block to set fence posts on and then build your decking of these. The blocks will need to be bedded in concrete to stop them sinking.
  9. There is cheaper full mhrv kits on that link above.
  10. If you get your build down to 1 ACH then you will have done a lot of work putting in lots of insulation to keep the house at a nice constant temp and have used a lot of tape and membranes to stop the leakage. So why would you install a system that gets rid of the heat. A mhrv will recover some of the heat going out but it also filters the air coming in which in my view is it's best selling point. There's maybe a good reason it's not used widespread. Have a look at bpc as they do full kits for less than £2k depending on the size of your house. https://www.bpcventilation.com/heat-recovery/full-diy
  11. A small dry build retaining wall with the hole backfilled with stone and wacked flat and then bed with sharp sand and lay whatever type of paving brick/ slab that takes your fancy.
  12. Sure his ma would have beat him harder for missing his tea than if he had got caught hijacking the bus.
  13. My cold wife once had the living room my wbs is in at 32 degrees when I was at work. Only thing that got the heat out was opening all the windows and doors and even that took a 2 days.
  14. Should have hijacked it and left it sideways across a roundabout on fire.
  15. Old habits die hard. Can't stand bees or wasps.
  16. You only need a water proof agent none of this fancy expensive stuff. A couple of quid. It's all in the mix. If the mix is wrong then won't matter who puts it on the wall. Wet the wall before the scratch coat and don't put it on if it's too cold with a chance of frost or too hot to stop it drying out to quick. Wet the scratch coat again before you put the top coat on and thats all that is needed. A couple of coats of white masonry paint is another option. Cheaper and still looks fine.
  17. Being a digital type tech job I reckon the remote is a backup control option and your meant to download an app and use that. A quick search brings up an app called undok . Install this and see if it's better to use. Spotify is great to use. I have it on my Sonos and the song list is endless.
  18. The white stuff is the salts that are in the bricks that leech out when they get wet. You need to keep them covered up from they arrive on site till they are built. The stacks that the Labourer sets out need covered with plywood/polythene and then when they get built each night a roll of 150mm/225mm dpc gets rolled out over the top and other bricks set on top to stop it blowing away.
  19. Proper Scottish shortbread is a thing to behold. Borders ginger and chocolate biscuits are a close second.
  20. As you going for facing bricks is something you should really consider. All the beds and perps will be the same colour and it will look much much better. You have near on no waste at all compared to using a mixer. Plus you don't need to put aside a fairly large area that you need for a load of sand, cement and a mixer.
  21. Made sure there where no beads on my outside render. Just used lengths of 4*1 skirting with a chamfered edge and lath to form the edges and bottoms.
  22. Have you figured out why its going boast?? Did they put on a scratch coat first?? Was both the blocks soaked and if it was done the scratch coat soaked prior to doing the top coat?? Was the cement dead maybe?? Was the mix correct?? Was it put on on a real hot day so it dries out before it goes off?? Doubt there is any point in patching it. It needs chipped of and done right.
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