Declan52

I used a drill bit too do mine. A wood bit with a good sharp point heated up with go through it in no time. Just roll it back and forth with your other hand and it will go in. Over the years I lost every single nail and used this method each time.

I had similar issues in my last house when I removed the old kitchen. It was a 1960s high tech example of housing that had the cavity pumped with beads 20 years on. Over the years these beads moved and left gaps resulting in cold spots. My fix was to bleach and clean the inside to sort these issues. On the outside I put a tumble dryer vent to try to get the wall to dry out. If it is cold spots in the cavity there ain't really a cheap fix. Your only option is to try to get rid of the damp air by better ventilation.

A heavy hammer and a 100mm bolster will be quicker and much cleaner. Should take two hits only for each brick. Just set up a platform and mark a row of 6 then wack away. No dust and a lot cheaper than buying a lot of diamond tipped blades.

Then just pick up the phone and pay for some glazing company to come out price the job up and install the glass for you.

The beading clips in all the way round the window. It won't split by hitting it at a downward angle. This will force the scraper down the gap and pop the beading up.

So going by that info you will be using the heat pump to get the water temp to 50 degrees and each day have your immersion lift it till 60 degrees. Did they explain this part to you?? What is so bad with the current system that needs replacing apart from the boiler i.e have you had bother with leaking pipes or rads. Have you got any other companies out to quote for doing the same job?? Have you also got a price for just changing the boiler and whatever else needs replacing??

The beading clips into a groove in the frame. You just need to hit it hard enough and at a downward angle so the scraper pops the beading up. Once you get it popped then move the scraper along continuing to pop it up. The first bit is always the worst.

Put a slimmer post in. If it was a 4*4 post put in a 3*3. Or get the kango/crow bar out and break it up. Or dig around the concrete and remove it as one lump if it's not a massive amount.

The walls usually have the least with the roof the highest. It's much easier to lay 300-400mm of loft insulation but if you put that much in a cavity then it can cause many more issues like much longer wall ties, closing the cavity etc. As long as it's total is good is the main objective. Don't forget any window or door you put in no matter how high tech it is will still be at least 3/4 times as high a u value as your wall.

I think before you part with any of your hard earned money you need to get your heat loss calculated. This will give you an idea of how much energy it's going to take to maintain your house at a nice temperature. You said you got a survey done. What info is in their results. Oil is fine now as your boiler fires up and heats the water to over 70 degrees which you then use to heat your rads. This just wont happen with a heat pump. It can't get the water in your tank to this high a temp and still run efficiently no matter what the heat pump guy says. Heat pumps work well with underfloor heating as this only needs water at 35-45 degrees depending on your heat loss. Then you have the issue with your DHW. Ask them how will the heat pump provide you with enough hot water for showers baths etc. Have you access to gas or even priced up just changing the oil boiler to a newer more efficient model. You could end up spending £15k on a system that can't provide you with enough heat or hot water without costing you a fortune in electric each year.

The beading has to go back in to help keep the unit in place. It will only be removable from one side that is hopefully on the inside. It wouldn't be the first window I have seen with it on the outside if its there. Handy for those folk who like to creep around at night stealing things.

You need a wallpaper scraper and a hammer. Put the scraper on the beading and work your way round the window frame and take the bead out. The 2g unit should be taped in so won't fall out but I did say should do keep a hand on it just to be safe. Measure the height and width of the unit and take it to whoever in your area makes glass. Then just remove the 2g unit when the new one comes and fit the new one carefully tapping the beading. Or get the glass guy to come out and do all this work and pay him.

Everyone from lurgan is decent!!! I am half looking into to changing my pellet boiler to an ashp . But it won't be done until my last RHI payment.

You will need to provide more details. Is any other room not heating or just the kitchen. What have you set the kitchen temp at, 20/21 for example and what temp is the kitchen sitting at 14/15/16. How much insulation is under the floor. How big is the kitchen. A few pics of the manifold would help esp pointing out which circuit goes to the kitchen.

There only based down the road from me and never even knew. Going by their website they should be an easy machine to swap in. Hope you get a solution other than a big gas tank in your garden.

If on your founds you build a few courses of thermal type blocks this could form your break and reduce the thermal bridge. Will also help you get it perfectly level. You will obviously need to check the blocks are rated to a high enough N to withstand the weight that will be above.

Could be a chance to push for a decent discount and let him use your build to promote the blocks as a viable option for other people.

What is access like to be able to load the blocks on to the wall. A telehandler will struggle to lift 1.5t out more than 10m without ending up on its nose. A 13t digger might be a better option as it can just park up and slew round and round with out every moving. The lorry had a hydraulic grab so just squeezes them. You can get these as an attachment for a telehandler but your increasing the weight on the end of the boom so you can't lift as much or as high.

Vegetable oil is the cheapest oil you could use for this type of job.

Can you not have them in a corner of a room for example. Then you can have the grill in the room below out from the corner as far as your arm can stretch to pull the duct to the grill hole. There would be no issue with running it beside hot water pipes.

I done something similar to what you propose in my last house. It was a 1960s mid terrace house that was plagued with condensation. I installed a pretty basic mhrv in my loft and ran a pair of extracts to the first floor. Due to the position of my airing cupboard I was able to run the ducts from the attic down through the first floor to the ground floor. Even though this was a really poor machine, cost about £200 and was fairly loud but it did get rid of the excess moisture which then meant the condensation didn't form on the wall and cause mould. Is there any way of running ducts from a central location in the attic to both floors and just box the ducts in on the first floor. The ducts can be as small as 75mm so it won't be an eyesore. Your maybe only talking about an extract in the kitchen and living room so 2 bits of boxing in. You could put the clean air intake over the stairs on the first floor. It would mean you won't have to rip the ceilings out. You will just have to cut the grill hole out and connect it up.

Have you measured it height wise to see what one will suit it the best.

That will make it much much more of a viable option.

Looks fine enough. Do they make the half height blocks to help with coursing or do you need to cut them. Are you able to design your house so the width and length suits these so your cuts are a min.

I have one of these and have used it to trace my pipes in the floor. https://www.thermal.com/