Declan52

Ordered a Shelly 1 so will report back when it arrives on the 12 th Jan.

£8k

Am on a deep dive in YouTube videos but from what I have seen so far it could be a winner and not just for doing this job.

Would you take £5950 and a free tour of a hotpress.

Looks an impressive bit of kit for no money at all. What's the draw back.

All the controller does is turn the pump on my manifold for my rad circuit. From memory it had 3 wires in the back. What they are I haven't a clue.

At present I use a simple heating control to turn the heating on to my rads upstairs. I only use the rad section of it and not the central heating side. I have all my time programmes set so it comes on in the morning etc but my main issue is I would like the option to hit it to the boost option for an HR in the evening if I need to. At present I have to get off my fat ass and go upstairs and go into the hotpress and manually press the boost button. Now with getting lazy I would like to do this via an app on my phone. So what are my options. At present this is the controller I have https://www.amazon.co.uk/Danfoss-Randall-FP715SI-Heating-Programmer/dp/B001HB9LAG

The insulation boards with t&g are much easier it fit. Having a t&g means there should be no gaps where the boards join. They are also the correct height for your wall ties as well. You might be better using beads blown in as with random size stone your not always at the right position for the wall tie to sit straight and will need moved up/down too suit the stone which will leave holes in the insulation.

String/chain between the loops on the mirror and screw straight into the 2 different studs.

Install a mhrv system. The amount of vents will be limited but depending on your house layout might still work.

You pump bentonite powder and cement mix into the hole and that buys you enough time to create a cap from concrete. A steel plate might be needed if there is a lot of pressure. We hit an artesian well in an underground car park in Belfast and it flooded the bottom floor. Lucky enough No cars where parked there. Took a lot of bentonite powder and cement to reduce the flow enough to get it capped. But this borehole was approx 6m below ground level so there was a lot of pressure to hold back.

A couple of bags of bentonite threw down it when they go shopping will do the trick.

Is the connections from the top dripping down and running inside and out the bottom. If it's not sealed fully at the joint then you could get condensation here.

Students from NI can still avail of this scheme due to an agreement with the Irish government.

Moss will wash of easy enough. If and it's a big if everything was done right and was inspected by building control and passed it will be fine to build on but I would want to see the building control guys notes stating his visit date and what he seen. So you then have 2 options. Either build on the existing footprint with a design to match what was passed. The back wall should be wide enough to form a cavity to build just in the rectangle shape. If not it's not a big job to either dig it out and start again or if the span isn't too much use a concrete lintel. Or dig it up and start again. The risk here is that you won't get permission to build what design you want. It all week depend on what the planners will allow you to build. They are pretty strict here with builds in the countryside. You might need to have a conversation with them first to see what leeway you have with regards changing the layout plus changing the materials. Might be passed as a brick house and you want render and cladding for example. Only thing about a plot beside the Lough is during the summer the place is mental with midges. I live very close to it and you can't leave a window open and a light on at night or your ceiling will be black in the morning.

You would need to pick a spot and dig down to see what the concrete is like at the bottom. How deep it is. The section with no concrete, meant to be a garage maybe, would be a good place to start. From this you can get an idea of how deep and wide the concrete is. From this info you can then work out if it's strong enough to build whatever you want on it. The sun floor concrete is just black due to mould from rain sitting on it. Won't do it any harm. A power hose will soon remove it. The lower section where it's stepped down is where they would have started the outer skin of brick or block. The insulation will be in the cavity. That looks like a standard 300mm build where you have 100mm outer skin, up to 100mm insulation and then 100mm inner skin.

Think you won't need to wait that long.

No.

Right guys this post is starting to go south again. No more posts containing any slurs against immigrants and race will be tolerated end of.

Well soon be every EU country. Ireland confirmed with a ban as well. Not sure if it includes cross border travel for us in NI just yet but as we are still letting flights land from London I reckon it won't be long.

You would be better using twin wall flue for the complete job.

Makes sense now.

Why did you not plaster it first. Most plasterers don't like bending down that far and you end up with a tiny curve at the bottom of wall. Not sure how deep you need it, just seen it pop up on a Facebook page. Looks like some kind of bead and a setting agent to make it rock hard.

How close is it to the lamp. If you have room and can get the pot in-between the transformer and the lamp great if not it won't really make any difference. Will just make it harder to replace if it fails.

You don't. It's usually pumped in even a sand cement screed. If they don't own a pump a wheel barrow wouldn't damage it anyway.