Declan52

Unless it's a hotel your building your talking 1 day to pull the ducts to where they need to go and once plastered out then depending on how many vents you need cut out then another day maybe 2 if you have lots of vents. All of which you can easily do on your own. All you need is a step ladder, a saw for cutting the ducts, a plaster board saw for cutting the holes in the ceilings and a swear box. Just get a price from bpc to commission it or if I am correct there is the tool floating about between members that you can use to do it yourself.

It sets the inside of your house at a higher pressure than outside so pushes the air out through trickle vents, plug sockets, cracks at ceiling wall junctions etc anywhere there is a gap that air can escape which in a new build there really shouldn't be hardly any if any care and attention is paid during the build.

Did you price a kit from bpc and do the install yourself??? If you go down this route have you not to make sure your house is "leaky" so the stale air can be pushed out by the incoming fresh air. Seems a piece of kit for suitable to an older house that suffers from mould/condensation.

No if you go down that route then when the time comes to spec your Windows and doors you can tell them no trickle vents or even a letter box. There is a lot more work involved getting a building airtight than just no trickle vents though.

If you are trying to save money in the long run by making your house by insulating it good and making it as airtight as you can get it then you have to provide some method of ventilation, the easiest being mhrv. You can get complete systems for £2k which can be self installed fairly easy. If you are going down the route of building regs type house with trickle vents in the windows then it would be a waste. The choice is up to you.

If you are following the inquiry its not painting a good picture of the civil servants or the politicians one bit. They turned down a different scheme that would have been £300m cheaper to run but would have cost just £3.5m extra workload to set up. Seems the civil servants didn't fancy doing any work which is no real surprise.

Cut a small piece of polythene, a ft sq, and put it over the floor. Let it sit for a few hrs and lift it and see how much moisture is underneath. Then you will know if it's drying out any at all.

My brother in-law is laying fibre cable all along to Bangor and beyond at the minute. Not sure how far they will go down the peninsula though. Knowing here it will be in the small print that only areas with a certain population density will be covered and the rest of us it's tough.

You will need to close the cavity at the top with motar and some thing like a cement board or fire resistant board cut to suit your cavity width. If your build is a standard 100-100-100 then you cut the sheet 250mm wide and bed it over the cavity then you can bed your coping on top. The walls will continue to absorb the rain that's on the floor coming through the openings. Once the openings are closed over then they will dry out.

I was in the same position with the layout of the truss meaning that if I wanted an external vent I had to do a dropped ceiling or pay £1500 upwards for a hob with the extraction kit built in. I ended up with a neff induction hob and have to say it's been great with 3 years use. There is no way I could justify the extra £1300+ for the Bora type hob. The dropped ceiling cost £50 approx. A sheet of MDF and some studding to make up a frame and fixings. I know that even with the flap type air restrictors on the duct I will get some heat loss but I had a recirculating type in my last house and really didn't like it.

I thought you weren't allowed to bed the purlin in like that any more. Had to be plumb sitting on a pad stone. Way easier method to do it just not seen a roof like that in a long time.

We moved into our block house 3 years ago at the end of sept and it took near 2 weeks to get the house up to a nice 21 degrees inside. Until you sort out the heat loss from the front door your going to struggle to get it anywhere near where you would like it. Can you board it over with insulation sheets and use another door for your main route into the house??

Let your house sit for 18 months and it will have shrunk and expanded all it's ever going to move. If after that there is any gaps then fill away if not one less job to worry about.

The hardest part is getting everything you need up on to the roof. Your arms and legs will be sore doing this bit but once you have all up there then you would be surprised how quick you get into a rhythm. Roof Windows are pretty easy to fit. They are just awkward to get into place. Lead is also very easy to work with. Only need a good sharp knife and a lead dresser to form the shape you need. Check your local hire shop to see if they have a slate cutter, gives a better edge than an angle grinder. After that it's just a hammer and a good tool belt with a pouch full of nails/hooks.

Most android phones have a weather app that you can put on your home page. Looks like this.

What about a steel beam to go from end to end and if possible rest on some internal walls. The joists could then go in the web of the beam.

@JSHarris what about one of these with a brush or even a roller attached and maybe a set of steps to reach up if needed. https://www.screwfix.com/p/harris-3-section-aluminium-extension-pole-3m/10063

Same here if I fill mine with good quality coal. All it needs is raked out and the dampers opened up and it will catch again.

I am a member of my local credit union and it would do more lending than any of the banks in town. Always gives a better rate esp for travel money. First loan is double what your savings are then after that after it's paid of it's triple what you have in your account.

Could you get a mortgage that is covered by either your old house and b&b or the value of the new build where it sits now. Only get the least amount you need to be able to get your new build livable, £10k-£30k. Take it as a short term loan for 2-4 years where once the sale of your b&b goes through you can clear what's owed and be mortgage free. Depending on what your rental income is earning you it might not even cost you anything/much to service the payments.

3 sand to 1 cement and it should be creamy rather than sloppy wet. Mix it up by adding small amount of water at a time and put a bit on the wall. If it runs down the wall it's too wet add more sand/cement to thicken it up or if it doesn't spread it's too thick. Medusa or even plasticiser will help in the mix.

Very nice looking Dee. It's Xmas dinner booked for yours!!!!

Am sure you won't be standing on the truss doing it using your ninja skills so if any falls it will hit the planks/sheets you will be standing on.

Would a large bucket with water , bag of cement and Some sand not be easier and cheaper to do. If you have any medusa or similar from the outside plastering then put some in as well. Put it on with a roller and for that size of a wall twice over about 30mins work once you get it mixed and up there.

We bought my mum this one yesterday. Doesn't arrive till Tuesday so can't say how good it is but it is well reviewed on the site and on which. https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/household-appliances/cooking/cookers/zanussi-zcv66030xa-electric-ceramic-cooker-stainless-steel-10010690-pdt.html?intcmpid=display~RR Most of the black Friday deals are crap they can't shift during the year. Stick a reduced label on them and people go daft.