Radian

Ah, the "Fenton Silencer" - a true scandal-de mortuis nil nisi bonum

That's impressively wide. What sort of floor finish did you use on top? We used stick-down carpet on a thin layer of self-levelling compound covering the screed and a 25mm PIR upstand in our garden room extension. After they'd gone I discovered the carpet fitters had gone around the perimeter with a bolster and caved in the PIR a bit 🙄

Presumably the caravan has minimal insulation compared to the cabins so they should be even better. I hope everyone else living on site in a caravan is aware of the brilliance of A2A. Right now we've got some early morning sun producing around 1kW from our 3.2kW PV array and there's still a couple of hundred Watts to spare while our two A2A units are busy warming the outbuilding from 16oC overnight setback up to 19oC. What other type of heating system could manage this? I never thought it'd be practical to use a modest amount of PV to power space heating - especially not in the first week of January - but I'm glad that I've been proved wrong.

That can't be right. Copper HW cylinders are routinely encased in sprayed-on PUR foam. Silicone sealant is slightly acidic, perhaps your plumber was thinking of that?

Silly question, how reliable is your assessment of 'out of plumb'? If it's just using a spirit level on end I'd get a second opinion from an actual plumb line and bob weight. Or a self levelling laser.

That's very odd, the most recent order I placed for under £30 was last May and that was with free delivery. Subsequent orders have coincidentally been for over £30 so I wouldn't have noticed anyway. I agree that it was madness to have no minimum but I've always gone to RS despite their generally higher prices because of this. Suddenly (for me at least) going from £0 to £30 is a bit of a jolt and I'm now looking more at getting components from Amazon.

I've got a perfectly good Panasonic 42" plasma monitor in storage - only its more like 20 years old! Used to be the heart of my AV setup only now I haven't got the heart to dump it! Free to collect if anyone has a use for it.

Yes, my monitoring shows the refrigerant based ones seem to raise the ambient by about 1oC but I'm not sure how much of this is due to the 'wet bulb' effect. The ones I have draw about 250W so will contribute some warmth but not a lot. My next one will be a desiccant type as these are more suited to outbuilding use at lower ambient temperatures.

Takes planning and patience though! I'm really going to miss spontaneous purchasing 😢

More like 2.35m away The Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers recommends sitting at a distance where the screen fills up a minimum of 30° of your field of vision for a good experience. Try this size to distance calculator

Just put in the first RS order of the year and found they've slapped a minimum £30 order for free delivery! That's a bummer. Had an account with them for over 40 years and never paid a penny for delivery - even if the order was for less than a £1's worth of resistors or whatever.

Plenty of Youtube videos show how to do it. No special tools or techniques required. Junior hacksaw, stanley knife and an couple of adjustable spanners. edited to add outdoor electrics should be signed-off by spark!

The brickwork the rising from the foundation also looks wet. Is this a suspended floor? I'm wondering if there was a puddle in this corner that's now able to seep out.

Absolutely vital to replace with SWA. The whole point of SWA is that whatever might accidentally penetrate it will first make contact with the armor which is earthed at the feed end and then make contact with live causing the circuit breaker to trip while the potential of the (garden fork) remains close to ground.

Do you think that's likely to be more energy efficient than dehumidification?

I wish I knew the exact algorithm used by my boiler. Still not cracked the proprietary ebus protocol to monitor flow & return temps and adjust it for separate HW and radiators. Last ditch will be to A/D convert the thermistor connections so I can at least log the most significant behaviour.

I don't understand how that works. Do you mean the boiler flow temperature is set to 30oC? Does the buffer ever reach that temperature and if it does what return temperature is the boiler seeing?

You can buy the 'D' profile compression seal with stick-backing tape on its own. I bought some 12mm deep to seal my front and back doors. Much better than the standard squishy white foam. The threshold strip is nice though as it holds everything in place. Bit on the pricey side though.

OK, but he also said that fossil fuels may be used as a "fall back" if it cannot be achieved by the end of the decade. This "fall back" period will be impossible to define unless a fully costed program of street by street housing improvements are in place. It's simply not a realistic proposition.

Compression seals are your best friend here for example

The free use of the Bright app is highly commendable if you don't need real-time info. I guess they convert enough sales on the strength of people wanting to get real-time data. But the API still works even if you don't buy their hardware.

I have the 1st gen Fir one and while the Flir tools app won't connect, I can use the image gallery to view photos I take with the bog standard app and call up additional spot readings at any time.

Surely all this shows is that people have a fixed budget for their heating bills but a fluid desire for a warmer house. They will just buy the same amount of gas that they used to and enjoy the greater comfort.

The Flir app ecosystem is a bit of a mess so In case you don't know, the Flir Tools app can be used to connect to the camera (not in all cases though) and provide multiple spot temperature readings - which can be positioned retrospectively.

You seem to be aware of the potential for causing problems which is a good thing. As you suspect, there are pitfalls. First you need to be clear about your objectives here. Roof spaces such as yours have been designed to be well ventilated - and by that I mean very noticeably draughty. The function of the draught is to expel any excess moisture in the air and allow the timbers to dry out if they do develop condensation on them. Most plans such as your proposal work against this. I notice that you have a large boarded area. This is a problem in two ways: it means there is limited fiberglass insulation underneath and any moisture coming through from below is trapped and unable to dissipate through the ventilation. You need at least 300mm of uncompressed fluffy insulation in all areas and boarding over will be problematic. If you have any alternative storage space I'd advise moving your stuff there, lifting the boarding and going over the entire surface with additional mineral wool insulation to bring it all up to 300mm.