BotusBuild

How about Command strips. Our daughter used these at university to hold a largish mirror on her rented room. Stayed up all year, no problems

@Post and beam, You'll not get comms from Openreach. They talk to their customer, which is not you, it's your broadband provider. I know this from having to deal with BT and Openreach during my working life. Openreach themselves are crap at comes internally let alone externally. For my recent connection I started with Plusnet, and switched to EE on recommendation on here. EE were very good at keeping me informed. I also had a line of sight tree chopping issue. Between switching from Plusnet and EE I did this myself as it was an easy job. As it happens EE would have covered the cost, unlike Plusnet. So, as you can see, choice of BB provider is important. As has been said, persevere, but I do recommend using EE, and I have FTTP.

Was one of those with EE? Good for a few people on here. Was there a common issue causing each failure?

DuckDuckAI responds: Starlink's main competitors include OneWeb, which focuses on connecting underserved areas with its satellite network, and traditional satellite providers like HughesNet and Viasat, which use geostationary satellites but generally offer slower speeds and higher latency compared to Starlink. Each alternative has its own strengths and weaknesses, making them suitable for different user needs.

Keep them coming. Thats exactly what the sites for

The Electrical Installation Certificate you mean?

The change was made when we rented out the house last year. That has come to and end and we are now selling. What brought this to a head was a question on the conveyancer questionnaire. Thanks for all the input.

Come across these guys before. Been around a long time, and they make good kit. Locals installer available (Cornwall) so will be in touch with them.

Clarified OP

Does anyone know of a good independent battery storage review and comparison source? Looking for 1. something to install before panels (retrofit something later, money flow), 2. charge at low rates, use during high rates, 3. flexible control (doesn't necessarily have to be simple to use although that's a bonus) 4. Modular so can add storage if required at a later date 5. Preferably not Chinese origin, or US come to think of it ( to be more specific, I dont want any data going their way, so if contains components I'll suck it up) 6. Whole house automatic backup in event of power failure

We got a kitchen on supply only. The after sales service has been diabolical. More than not recommending, we will be actively discouraging anyone who asks to avoid them like the plague.

But not mandatory?

Hello electrical experts/trades people. I had an old consumer unit replaced with an 18th regs compliant version last year. No change to the circuits was involved. Should I have received a certification or testing report and/or building control document from the installer?

Is that a joke in the circumstances?

Is there a wall opposite that you could brace against? If so, CT1 and brace both ends and the middle of the trim against the opposite wall while it sets off (give it 24 hours)

If you're not happy doing it yourself, yes, get an electrician

Agreed, I presume you would only be replacing the door and the roof, leaving everything else untouched ( but maybe repainted 🙂)

Yes, you are effectively maintaining the existing structure.

Just fitting doors myself. Most doors will have a strip of solid wood around the edges. The ones I bought had 8mm. You can trim the width of the door to fit a gap, but you shouldn't take any more than 4mm from each side according to the manufacturer's recommendation (Howden in my case). However, I've had to, in a couple of cases, take significantly more. I used a circular saw with a guide to remove the 8mm solid wood in one piece, then cut off the extra I needed from the "core" of the door, then used PU glue to refit the solid 8mm wood back on the door. The doors are now hung and working well. This approach is easier than removing the architrave and wood behind and replacing all that IMHO

Invictus, 6mm, 1mm of which is a cork backing wear layer 0.55mm. It is a click system, called Unizip. The idea is you can connect any side to any side so you have less waste. Still not easy at the corners 🙂

For clarity, the reason for low level heating is to keep the classic car dry

Ah, the old tin cans and a solar powered fan project 🙂 Did one to dry logs - worked well

The Haynes manual 😂

I recall seeing this system several years ago. It was being specified for use in heating an domestic indoor swimming pool instead of an air source heat pump. I see that with a single panel, a 250L DHW tank can be supplied and fitted for about £5k. Now, as I prepare to build my garage, I was wondering whether solar thermodynamics could be used to heat the garage (to about 15C during the cooler months), but without the large 250L tank. I was thinking a small 40-50L volumiser tank with a couple of 100m UFH loops in the slab. Anyone seen anything like that?