BotusBuild

Is there a wall opposite that you could brace against? If so, CT1 and brace both ends and the middle of the trim against the opposite wall while it sets off (give it 24 hours)

If you're not happy doing it yourself, yes, get an electrician

Agreed, I presume you would only be replacing the door and the roof, leaving everything else untouched ( but maybe repainted 🙂)

Yes, you are effectively maintaining the existing structure.

Just fitting doors myself. Most doors will have a strip of solid wood around the edges. The ones I bought had 8mm. You can trim the width of the door to fit a gap, but you shouldn't take any more than 4mm from each side according to the manufacturer's recommendation (Howden in my case). However, I've had to, in a couple of cases, take significantly more. I used a circular saw with a guide to remove the 8mm solid wood in one piece, then cut off the extra I needed from the "core" of the door, then used PU glue to refit the solid 8mm wood back on the door. The doors are now hung and working well. This approach is easier than removing the architrave and wood behind and replacing all that IMHO

Invictus, 6mm, 1mm of which is a cork backing wear layer 0.55mm. It is a click system, called Unizip. The idea is you can connect any side to any side so you have less waste. Still not easy at the corners 🙂

For clarity, the reason for low level heating is to keep the classic car dry

Ah, the old tin cans and a solar powered fan project 🙂 Did one to dry logs - worked well

The Haynes manual 😂

I recall seeing this system several years ago. It was being specified for use in heating an domestic indoor swimming pool instead of an air source heat pump. I see that with a single panel, a 250L DHW tank can be supplied and fitted for about £5k. Now, as I prepare to build my garage, I was wondering whether solar thermodynamics could be used to heat the garage (to about 15C during the cooler months), but without the large 250L tank. I was thinking a small 40-50L volumiser tank with a couple of 100m UFH loops in the slab. Anyone seen anything like that?

Why 2 strings of 5 panels each? Physical location of panels e.g. E/W facing? Have you modelled the location/output of the panels for the best efficiency of output?

All in good time. I have the rest of the house to finish. But now we wont get woken in the middle of the night except by our bladders 😂

Update: the relay has now been removed. The call for heat and the pump are being driven by the UFH wiring centre.

Either Conversions & Extensions or one of the Roofing & Lofts forum (see below)

Yes, it is I've just posted on the FB page and will see what is said before trying anything else but thanks for the response.

Update (summary - pump running constantly!): Boiler COM and NO (normally open?) now connected to EVU 2 and 1 respectively (see pics) Pump connected directly to MA1. 2 PROBLEM: The pump (the one after the buffer tank) is on all the time whether the stat is set to require heat input. So, whether the wiring centre is calling for heat or not the UFH circulation pump is running. Settings which I think are relevant: Anyone shed any light on why the pump is always running.

Thanks @sharpener. On those schematics (3 pages), it shows the connection to EVU from the UFH wiring centre coming through 12s which is shown on the 3rd page as "DPDT relay (3rd party)". I think this is what our installer has put in (a double pole, double throw relay), on the basis we were installing another UFH manifold with a similar wiring centre setup (2nd manifold added but not the wiring centre, and unlikely to fit this). However, they've obviously got the pump wiring wrong. I will follow your advice above first (losing the installed relay along the way) and see how we get on.

I will make these changes in the next couple of days and report back. Thank you again.

Thank you @ProDave. Should I leave the circulation pump connected to the Valve terminals? Or move them to the above Pump terminals?

@ProDave, Is this what you are asking for? https://tioclimatesolutions.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/TIOWIR0004.pdf

So, this has been my thinking all along. I did question this with the installers at the time, but I think they were less than receptive after I had already pointed out a mistake that they had to rectify. The setup is as follows (and the more I look at the detail, the more I am concerned): Vaillant heat pump providing for DHW and UFH. DHW is a 250L UVC and is working well. There is a Vaillant appliance interface (VWZ AI) and a SensoComfort (VRC 720/3). The first has all the wires and the latter is the how you do the settings. The UFH starts with a four port buffer tank fed from the ASHP. On the hot output is the circulation pump that pushes water to the UFH manifold. Each loop has a valve connected into a TIO 8 channel wiring centre, and we have one thermostat currently. Effectively we are running a single zone and I have actually left all the valves "open". With this setup, I would be looking for the UFH wiring centre to be controlling the "call for heat" to the heat source. As we have it physically setup, that heat source is via the buffer tank and so the wiring centre should send a signal to the circulation pump to turn on and send hot water to the UFH manifold. Wiring: From the installation instructions for the Vaillant interface, EVU is stated to be the Energy Supply Company contact. No idea why this is wired in as it is. From the installation instructions for the TIO wiring centre, Valve is supposed to be interfacing with a UFH Valve. There is a connector labelled Pump, with a L and N terminal. My plan is to attach a meter to the Pump connector, and turn the thermostat up to call for heat and see if there are volts on this connector. If so, surely the Pump should be connected to this directly?

Well, as stated, I want to replace the noisy electromagnetic one. Now, if your Q is "why do you need a relay", then the answer to that is "that's what the electrical wiring diagram called for".

We have an electromagnetic relay in our heating circuitry that was purchased at short notice so I was not able to research. It has a very annoying loud click. It's inside an enclosure in the plant room behind a solid door. I want to replace this with a silent SSR. The control and load are both AC. The load, a circulation pump for the UFH, is a Stuart Turner Pulse OEM 25-60/130, with a power consumption of 4.5 to 38W, which I work out to be <0.2A current draw. Will the 10AA version of this SSR be OK?

Thats where i got it from