BotusBuild

A hot knife is good for polystyrene. They just dont cope with PIR. Someone may be along to explain why. Most guidance for cutting is sharp knife, jigsaw or handsaw

I used tile trim from my local tile shop. Cut back the bit that would normally go behind the tile leaving about 5/6mm to stick it to the wall/door frame/top step of stairs (as in picture)

So your approach seems the only option 😉 As for cutting the PIR, a reciprocating saw (I'd use a hand held one for control), and you'll have to break small chunks out as you go. Messy but a hot knife won't work. Use the chunks to wedge the conduit down from the UFH.

How deep is the PIR? What is the build up of the floor upto and including the PIR? Could you run the cable below the PIR and then bring it up to the location of the floor sockets? I have 2 floor sockets. The cables were run between the joists and then a hole made to bring the cable up vertically to where the floor sockets would be.

Conor, I would try to pull a drawstring through first - hit, and overcome, all the snags and route smoothly without possible damage to the 6mm cable. I think you would benefit from a hole at the wall where the cable goes the wall to the charger to make feeding the cable as easy as possible. I have used a piece of wire taken from a stock fence to do similar routing instead of the fibreglass rods. You can bend it when necessary to go over or under awkward points. Also, when you start pulling the cable with the drawstring, have someone feeding the cable in the first hole to reduce tension in the string and the cable. This also minimises damage to the outer insulation. Good gaffer or duct tape is very useful for this job. Best of luck with this.

Bossy! 😀

OK, off to SF 😀. I'll channel my inner Scot as I fit it 😉

Looks like you have to be able to get a hand inside the pipe to attach it? If so, I can't use this 😞 in this instance.

If that's the case, I will do this as I can get round the pipe.

I have a need to connect either 32 or 40mm waste pipe to a 110mm soil pipe that I can't disconnect, so been looking at options. The strap on connectors seem to depend on the rubber adapters. I'd rather have a more permanent seal, so looking for a solvent fitting. Found these available in either size. Yay or Nay?

Looking good. You're doing great.

Just came across this. Anyone else seen them before? With a 5 year warranty seems a vale for money way of getting storage. Can link 5 units together. Needs some extra bits to provide critical circuit backup. https://eco-recycle.co.uk/product/mcx-5kw-energy-storage-unit/

+1, and a facemask

I'm presuming you mean a computer system? Is the main builder computer literate? If so, do they use something already? If so, use that. If the answer to any of the above is No, then I suspect you will be fighting a losing battle trying to get them use something. Next time you speak with them, explain what you'd like to be able to do, and see what the reaction is to the idea. It may be a simple as use of email, which I am presuming they do use already in this day and age.

Time to plan the change 😀

So, unless you're close to a limit on your water pumps capability, the chart is accurate enough would be the conclusion?

For anyone who comes back this way to ready this thread, I strongly recommend taking a look at and using the above calculator.

I'd rather have a modern battery unit in the plant room than a tumble dryer anywhere inside the house

This is what I was trying to do, but obviously slipped up on a decimal point or seven 😀

If my answer above is correct then I get the following: The Worst ΔP is a paltry 0.013188Pa. Given that the "remaining head pressure" graph in the OP shows the pressure in kPA this result seems crazily LOW. UFH Loops Flow meter reading (L/min) V (m/s) L (m) ΔP (Pa) Loop 1 1.5 0.000025 90 0.000044 Loop 2 1.5 0.000025 90 0.000044 Loop 3 2 0.00003333333333 92 0.000081 Loop 4 2 0.00003333333333 85 0.000074 Loop 5 2 0.00003333333333 95 0.000083 Loop 6 2 0.00003333333333 88 0.000077 Loop 7 1.5 0.000025 85 0.000042 Loop 8 0.9 0.000015 81 0.000014 Loop 9 0.9 0.000015 89 0.000016 Loop 10 1.1 0.00001833333333 86 0.000023 Loop 11 2 0.00003333333333 71 0.000062 Loop 12 0.9 0.000015 85 0.000015 Loop 13 1.2 0.00002 87 0.000027 Loop 14 2 0.00003333333333 40 0.000035 Total ΔP 0.000638 Pa 28mm flow and return pipework 1.535714286 0.0000255952381 10 0.013105 Worst ΔP 0.013188 Pa

Can I assume the flow in the feed and return pipes is the total of all the flows in the loops given that the system is completely open? May have answered this myself from DuckDuckAI Multiple Outlet Manifold: If the manifold has multiple outlets, the flow in the feed pipe can be calculated using the formula: Flow in Feed Pipe=Total Flow×Number of Outlets

Here are my calculations: Flow meter reading (L/min) V (m/s) L (m) ΔP (Pa) Loop 1 1.5 0.000025 90 0.000044 Loop 2 1.5 0.000025 90 0.000044 V = Flow Meter Reading/60000 Loop 3 2 0.00003333333333 92 0.000081 Loop 4 2 0.00003333333333 85 0.000074 ΔP = f * (L/D) * (ρ * V²/2) Loop 5 2 0.00003333333333 95 0.000083 Loop 6 2 0.00003333333333 88 0.000077 f = 0.018 Loop 7 1.5 0.000025 85 0.000042 ρ = 1050 kg/m3 Loop 8 0.9 0.000015 81 0.000014 D = 0.012m Loop 9 0.9 0.000015 89 0.000016 Loop 10 1.1 0.00001833333333 86 0.000023 Loop 11 2 0.00003333333333 71 0.000062 Loop 12 0.9 0.000015 85 0.000015 Loop 13 1.2 0.00002 87 0.000027 Loop 14 2 0.00003333333333 40 0.000035 Total ΔP 0.000638 Pa As long as I don't have something wrong, then I think there is enough residual head. @SimonD, does the calculations appear to be correct? Thanks in advance

Before I "take a punt" on just removing the buffer and pump and see what happens I'm going to do option 1 from @SimonD's earlier post. I presume I use this formula - ΔP = f * (L/D) * (ρ * V²/2), where ΔP is the pressure drop, f is the friction factor, L is the pipe length, D is the diameter, ρ is the fluid density, and V is the fluid velocity. To answer Simon's question as to why they installed a buffer in the first place. Was it: - just a mindless design that plonked it in there; - to do with a calculated or feared pressure loss issue; - to do with system volume as your system doesn't hold the minimum volume per minimum kW output of the heat pump; - to actually buffer excess output from the heat pump as it's oversized? Originally, we were going to have multiple zones and the buffer was required for this simple reason. We did not have the thermostats setup at the time the ASHP was installed and have found that as a completely open unzoned system the house is comfortable. The house is bedrooms downstairs, living area upstairs so the rising heat problem some houses suffer from actually works for us. More houses should be built this way 🙂

John, the current setup works. We are comfortable the way the loops are and by adjusting flows to each. I am only interested in whether I can remove or bypass the buffer tank and rely on the heating pump in the outdoor unit to continue to make the water flow through the UFH.

@SimonD, is there anything else you are seeking information about? A bit more below. FYI the heat pump is about 3m from the plant room (LGF where the manifold is), connected by 28mm insulated pipework. The UVC (250l) is in the plant room. Motorised valve switches between heating and DHW. Heating flow goes to the buffer tank (50l), then a pump on the flow to the two manifolds. These have no mixing valves or secondary pumps. All heating pipework is 28mm copper in the plant room, all insulated. About 10m of this on flow and return to furthest (UGF) manifold