BotusBuild

🤣

We're looking for reasonably priced versions of this style of balustrade (clear, not frosted). It will be fitted to the glulam beam in the following pic Anyone know of anyone, preferably in the South West, but willing to source elsewhere if delivery is reasonable.

As you are in flats, I would say doing something to the concrete floor to lower it is a no-no. So, I think you are limited to a riser kit, and use a shallow waste trap like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-space-saving-shower-waste-white-90mm/513jn?ref=SFAppShare You can cut the waste pipe as you describe, just measure very carefully, offering up the replacement waste trap to check for location. I've just done this myself - attach trap to tray, put a couple of blobs of silicone (or similar) on the bottom of the trap, place the tray carefully into place and allow the trap to touch the floor. Lift it all out again, and you a should see where the silicone touched, showing you where the trap will be. Now take the trap off the tray and work out where that pipe needs to be cut.

Probably

I had 3 x 180mm holes drilled, about the same length. IIRC it was about £250. Whatever size you think you need drilled add 10mm, then foam the gaps after fitting the pipe. Don't ask why I know.

It was this bit in brackets that caused my response. Was it the secret police resistance to these or the German population? 🙂

You imply the US have strict privacy laws. You are kidding aren't you? They have the worst regulations related to privacy in the developed world.

The above item includes a link to the hot knife I bought. Not sure if still available

some pics and a video

Just thought I'd update what happened It's old wood from a dismantled railway viaduct

I got a hot knife which a blade you could bend to suitable shape, then cut channels for round conduit through which the wires were then fed. I'll be back with a link

Put some PIR in the gap. Then plaster board and plaster. If you want you could use the insulated board instead of plaster board, but then you'd be looking to run it all way along that L shaped wall at the top to maintain the same thickness (and a flat surface to plaster on). Might get expensive. You could use that insulated board for the reveals as well, if there's room. Good rawlplugs (or similar) will hold a roller blind. Usually you have the option to screw the brackets to the top reveal or the side reveals

I've got a job for you 🙂

Following the EE route, and so far so good, although they still want to lop more stuff off tree than I have already done. But, the key thing, they are not going to charge me for this, so I will let them get on with it. Spoke to these guys. Very helpful, but as there is already fiber in the lane, they said it would be better to just go with a "normal broadband provider" (their actual words 🙂 )

The granite setts would be installed on your land, so knowing where this starts would be well worth knowing. You can have this installed, or install in yourself on your land. Are you set (no pun intended) on having this architectural feature? I don't think it would stop building control signoff if it was not there. The dilemma is whether to go to the council to confirm the boundary which may raise questions with the PP/BC, or just making a reasonable estimate about where council section comes to. Are there any other properties on the lane that may indicate where a reasonable line might be between the council and private land.

Don't be too afraid. Photograph what you are going to replace, particularly connections. Turn everything off, then check nothing is live. Replace the cable. Replace the connector. Make the connections (refer ro earlier photos) Tighten and tug test. Apply volts. You got this

If you are replacing the damaged contactor (bad screw) - you're doing that! - then replace the whole T&E at the same time. IMHO

She wants fitted wardrobes, she dips into her inheritance 🤣🤣

template made of three layers of wide masking tape. Original hole below Using a router freehand created the new hole. Note, door not cut to new width in case of a cock up, and it also supports the router Door cut to width and screw grubs refitted. And finished doors fitted. Worth a 🍺?

Follow up. Cabinet cut down and fitted, but now of course I have the trouble of the doors, which both need trimming down equally. Note: these doors of course match all the doors in this brand new kitchen. Initial option was to trim the centre edges, were they meet, bit that means apply new edging colour matched. Has anyone tried to remove edging and reapply it? Maybe heat it to melt the glue, then clean it up and glue it on the newly cut edge? Second option is to cut the hinge edges which means cutting those lovely big holes which I don't have a jig for. Bit that still leaves the cut edge without edging 🙃 Damn, I love DIY 😬 Any other options out there?

You could put the drain taps inline in those vertical pipes above the connectors if you have room. Also, you lose some joins by following the green lines below

This stuff any good? Toupret wood repair filler ?

I don't think so. Isolator valves for future maintenance, sure, but not DCV's

You only need one after the stopcock inside the house. We have one on the build tap outside which will remain in place, as it is direct connection back to the meter.

I'm in the process of having to narrow a cabinet. Someone did not measure twice during the design and we cannot go back. So I have removed one end of the cabinet as carefully as possible but inevitably a couple of areas of chipboard from the cabinet end have come away and I need to fill the resulting uneven holes before fitting the end back on. What recommended product should I be considering?