scottishjohn

you sure you were not talking to the floor sweeper? is this house an oak framed unit? where you will have point loads where the frames are or usual TF panels etc ? if std TF why would spreading the load over a larger area in a re enforced slab be a downside?

vodka is what it is usually turned into or the basic alcohol for gin .LOL

we have "creetown granite" here --used to make london bridge ,liverpool docks and cobble stones --thats the same the stone masons can drill it ,but i doubt a hand held one will work very well . they definitely use core drills for granite , i got a few of the cores they cut out of head stones where they put the flower pot. bbut most of the headstones come ready cut from china now --much cheaper you know the local company "galloway granite " quoted for the scottish parliament building ,as did one from aberdeen --but the order went to china !!! how could they do that for scotlands own parliament building !!! they use a wire saw to slice it up with a mixture of carborundum +water. its like a huge band saw the wire saw has a main wire with another one spiralled wrapped round it and the cutting paste sits in the gap and does most of the cutting or should i say rubbing its way through which just proves the old saying "given long enough you can piss a hole in a stone" a bit like self build? maybe something more modern now --but thats what local granite works uses a big block could take a day to cut one side still use the old split wedges to get large blocks out of quarry jack hammer a row of holes along all sides, then drive in a split hollow tubes --then hammer in taper pins and just keeping going round them evenly till it splits. the art in it is knowing the sound when you hit them to keep it even so it splits where you want it too,so i,m told

you can use loads of water cos a little will make mud which could clog it or just cut slower and keep pulling it out to clear the crap big drill s have a water feed and big drills on a lathe have a hole up the centre for cutting fluid which takes away the swarf as well

bottom line has always been and always will be cheap drills don,t last --but if you only using big sizes once --then cheap is maybe ok you want drills to last --then slow down the speed ,lubricate the cut if possible and don,t let them get hot,cos that will blunt them quicker than anything "speeds and feeds" as my dad kept telling me he started work in whitworths in manchester ,then onto Gorton tank --they made steam locos and when you are using a clamp on hand powered drilling railway chassis to fasten bits on --you don,t want to be blunting drills to often you soon learn all about drill sharpening ,seems to be a dying art now and then machine tool company in the 30,s --

what type of shank are you looking for on this drill? https://www.ukdrills.com/masonry/extreme-masonry-concrete-drill-bit try here all types of drills

so how long before you can cover it in ? that is not the same as blown cellulose where you put a plastic barrier up first and fill through hole ,so must rely on being open to dry out

I don,t like the sound of "wet " when its to do with old shredded newspapers --thats called paper mache !! and wet +wood+ paper and our climate sounds like mold to me

the man was worried about off gassing of the foam

I remember going round hampden court gardens and i heard another visitor one ask one of the gardeners how they got such a good lawn "simple he says just keep cutting it for 500 years !!" LOL

asbestos is still alright --if you do not disturb it making dust over boarding and sealing is quite often done to old asbestos panels --used to be used in plaster amongst other things,so if you knocking down an old plaster coated wall --you might want to damp it down just in case +wear masks

If you air tight barrier is good --won,t be problem anyway -as nothing can get through it. If it can your barrier is crap !!

its just cheaper not to fit it? maybe a fashion thing as well ? maybe a coving with built in led down lighting is the next thing

a bit ugly if that finished picture of installation

If you have 400mm thickness i am guessing that is way more than was required to replace normal pir foam fitment in a std house ,which is what i assume his time was based on whne quoting me comparison what thickness of pir does your 400mm equate to ?

for weird shape houses with lots of funny spaces maybe a combination of both spray(diy kits) and the other types will be a good compromise ? what my local installer told me was sheet insulation will be cheaper if you are fitting it yourself and presuming you are taking the time to make good fitting sheet insulation --a long job but if paying for complete job to be done for you,then its about the same by the time you have paid for fitting of sheet ,but foam will be definitely air tight and done in one day !! this is what i have been told

larry hunn -- is a GOD makes it look so easy If i were to takes lessons it would be from him

I suppose one or two men could do it with this tool http://www.progrestools.com/handling-equipment/montolit-lifttile-handling-system I,m betting these tiles you have are meant to be laid with no grout gaps as well? so would have to be lowered vertically into position as well

use ready mixed pointing mortar in a gun -? if you use tile spacers --if you leave them in won,t be much covering with mortar ,depending on thickness of slip you choose

your first problem will be finding someone who wants to do them !! they will need a special tile lifting trolley which has suction cups to lift then place them and it will be more than a one man job . your floor will need to be perfectly level with those size tiles as well.

using tile spacers would be a long winded job -- wouldn,t consider it use a carrier system of some make as suggested by @PeterW lots to choose from

If micro generation is going to help save the planet ,then it has to make economic sense or it will never be taken up enough to make sod all difference

every time i look at it comes back the same --you must use ALL the pv and then consider what itwould have cost you same as bought in so 4010kw x 0.16p per unit =£641.6 per year you save if you had bought it in - start adding E7 where buy rate is much lower and not being able to use it all --calculation just gets worse tell me if i,m wrong

I did not look at delivery -£100 for delivery is a rip off --would arrange my own at that rate as you would need a truck load -so book a truck -my guess £500 for delivery fro truck load If you use the other one in 300mm thickness it comes out at £142.56 for same area as what you quote, before any volume discount they also do a 8x4x300sheet of supertherm at £53.52 a sheet https://ecclestons.com/xcart/superthermeps-expanded-polystyrene-sheet-12mm-to-300mm.html?source=googleshopping&category_id=16&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_nmBRD0ARIsAJYs6o04DKLuQyXul6r555d_L3nQS6zT_OKokUhsXYqN-ccqdu7NoNPenwUaAmvIEALw_wcB the big blocks could suit somebody on very wet +boggy ground --seen it used next to the river Nith where it is tidal -house built 25 years ago --still there basically floating on 1mx1m blocks

https://ecclestons.com/xcart/block-1m.html. 1m x 1m x 1.2m blocks https://ecclestons.com/xcart/superthermeps-handipack-polystrene-sheet-12mm-to-300mm.html 300mm sheets a bit of work and save yourself a load of money?