scottishjohn

If the damp outside of wall is colder than inside and something is touching, like metal I think it could cause condensation on the metal ,like on inside of a single glazed window, that why you need a gap roomside of the barrier ,so any condensation on the barrier will hopefully be on the outside(damp ) where the drain channel is?

OK maybe me being thick to be clear the membrane is fixed directly to the wall all other studs etc which support the OSb wall are on the dry side of the membrane maybe the picture but is there a gap between the studs and membrane or not could touching the steel studs cause condensation to form ? every time i,ve seen these sort of barriers they do not touch anything but have an air gap on the dry side of them,then the stud wall . please correct me if i,m wrong

If you are serious about sealing it and not just doing what the "persimmons" of this world do then the air tightness barrier should be on before any plasterboard and house should be airtight without any plasterboard finish in place. VCL over all stud work and taped around all edges ,joints AND all penetrations of this "plastic bag!" .that should include where wiring and plumbing are penetrating this barrier you are fitting to inside of your house. then plasterboard it and skim get air test before plasterboard ,then its easy to fix any leaks .

I would leave plenty of space for the "smart " meter in the box# when it becomes mandatory ,as it surely will fit bigger backing board than you have now -

is this a damp area you are sealing off with the bubble sheet ? what about the studs behind it ? wood will rot and steel will rust away .?

only worry would be they grip in the osb better than drywall and don,t pull board up tight and strip in the metal stud. pre drilling would be a pain but a solution try a few first on a scrap bit of stud +board maybe dwell a little when you go through osb,so it takes the grip off the board on the screw ,before pushing hard to go into stud ,then that should work

that is what gyproc specified to me don,t know if they changed-so yes thats what i used and its still up 10years later and thats 3 layers on each side

cos builders don,t like to have to learn new skills when i went to jewsons here and asked for gyproc studding they looked at me like I WAS TALKING IN ANOTHER LANGUAGE they had to get out the gyproc "white book" to know what to order , no builder had ever used it here . and when i was doing it in the showroom a couple of local joiners came in and asked what it was.

plot is very large ,but still need to find out what is considered to be the original area occupied by the house and out buildings + garden ( curtilage as planning call it) this is built on bedrock I think -,10 dia +30ft "trees (scyamores) -growing out of bottom on walls have moved nothing ,so must be pretty solid under house it has metal air bricks, so was a suspended floor ,at least in some parts - I am guessing these were retro fitted at some time when a new floor was fitted it is shown on a map from 1852 ,but cannot say its same house of course will be impossible to see till the inside is cleaned out --so could be hard to get enough insulation under new slab

Hi guys+gals . still plot chasing ,but one of them has a rather large granite ruin I say ruin its really just missing roof and all interiors .anything not stone is gone or beyond redemption and all the original features like fireplaces,slates etc ,etc have been robbed over the years all exterior walls are perfect even though some trees have grown up right next to walls there is no sign of any damage to any walls chimney stacks etc all the pointing of the walls is perfect . last occupation was in the 60,s the question is : Do I flatten this very substantial building and start again or basically build another house inside it ? even though walls are very thick there will be very little insulation value ,but it seems a shame to flatten it . anyone done anything like this or know of examples? i would love to post pictures ,but as the deal is not done yet that would be foolish .

I take what you say as true but if roof is sealed and you have an airtight barrier on inside below insulation where is this 50mm ventilation void going to vent to ?

we have old victorian water mains some of which has now been replaced 10years ago i fitted 2 x20"filters one of which was a carbon one to system the simple filter turned very dark brown in the space of a few days .you could tell when water pressure +flow dropped I complained to water board -they said thats OK--nothing harmful--just rust from inside of old main i got local press round to take picture of of my stack of used filters -others joined in saying how bad it was after article was in press very soon after that they replaced a large section of the main now water tastes fine+filter does not change colour much even after a year I replace both once a year

under it allows continuous piece, also at door openings you can fix your door casings to it as well as dropping wood into verticals at door frame points to give more strength just my preference

the sinat system looks better than the gyproc i used ,wider flanges and easier to drill directly through ,could be the gyproc has changed over the years as well ? also like the use of pan head screws to fix the bits together - the fancy pliers were expensive and not that easy to use with the BIG gyproc was over 10years ago when i did mine. wish i had a magnetic level then as well.LOL would still be tempted to use a wooden sole plate ,thats just me -like something to nail skirting too as well .but probably most just stick the skirting's on now anyway

used 6" gyproc jumbo studding when i split my building into bits. as it was industrial i started on concrete floor with a 6x2 sole plate and then screwed bottom run to it. same at top slopping from 3m to 5 metres high !!--that is max approved height for jumbo -fastened 6x2 to the purlings of the building -then attached top rail to it dead easy-then to fit in the verticals . as it was afirewall it had to have 2 layers of 19mm plank gyproc on EACH side+ 1 layer of normal fireline with a fire curtain hanging in middle thats a lot of weight and long screws+ all overlapped !! its very soundproof with all that plasterboard feels very flimsy till you screw some plasterboard to it i was worried the framing would be too weak cos when truck came with the pallet of 19mm planks its hiab could not lift it ,was loaded with a stacker truck had to manually lift half of it off,before hiab would lift it. definitely not a one man job I bought the fancy gypoc pliers which pierce , bend and lock the bits together . only downside was you do not have a very wide flange to fix in to ,so spacing's of verticals must be perfect . but yes a good system and not as flimsy as it looks once erected and a layer of drywall on it would i use it again --YES -even considering it for any internal walls in new house you know it will all be straight --which if you buying CLS form local Bm therer will be bits that are not either straight or are twisted. I agree with @JSHarriselectrics need to be in flex conduit -the edges will slice you very quickly if no gloves when erecting it or you will have a perfect wire stripper.

the original post was about problems of insulation degrading in cable due to touching foam and my term "duct " was a generic one ,as in meaning something the wires go inside . there are many ways to do it

ants like dry places to build nests --but if its built right should be nowhere for them to get in If its not airtight its not ant proof

@Nelliekins maybe it would end being cheaper to run std cable in ducting ? as well as making it easy to pull another cable later you didn't think you would need? that picture looks like a good reason to use ducting,at least part of the way to make it neat and tidy

I still got it wrong --see the edit maybe you get 10 to start with lay them -let it go off then get remainder

LOL just realised my maths is crap thats 18bags of sand --not 2 so it will be a days job - 330 x 0.04=13.2 cum 0.8per bag=18

I would dry mix the sand at about 8-1 with cement if you have a mixer then the moisture from the ground will set it over the next day or so and it won,t move about once they are laid 2 bulk bags of sand should be more than enough for 330sqm of pavoirs -should not take you more than 2hrs to barrow round the back,usually there will only be about 0.75cu m in a bag when i did mine the wife who was 60 and only 5ft + 9stone at the time ,was barrowing it round for me,when i was a work , cos truck would only hi-ab it over the wall and she wasn,t shy at barrowing the pavoirs to me either,not as many as i would put in ,but still got done ,no need for fitness club membership --.lol so its not that hard --lay a plank on your compacted hardcore -and off you go with 330sq m to do you wont, do it in a day , so when you come to a stop just cut off any sand poking out so you not got a hard bit of sand at edges for next session and most important DO NOT walk on it anywhere close to the edge you are laying it will move. 4 blocks back and do not kneel on the laid part to lay next rows,unless its set --it will move tempting I know --just go round and use planks over it until you got your edges finished . edges last -so all the fiddly cutting is at same time. mix the blocks from different pallets as there is usually a slight colour variation ,which you won,t see till its all laid .I know you think I,m treating you like an idiot ,but i,ve made all the mistakes take what you like from this ignore the rest no problem If there is a downside to mixing cement with it it is that water will not drain through it --so you need to make a run on it or you will get puddles . I would suggest you set up a string line to get your run correct to your drains ,might not be as flat as you think or it could look like a tesco car park in a year or so using sand alone it nearly always sinks over time , and or the ants dig it out to make a nest and then it sinks . big car parks,petrol stations and things they lay concrete first and then use a much thinner layer of sand before the blocks hope this helps

limited span without extra support and no trusses with sips roof about 4.5-5m from memory , is often though used

my guess as even cavity wall 2 layers of brick seems to needs it,then it will be the same difference maybe the flammability of the foam around the concrete never seen it mentioned anywhere . A guess would be you need to fasten fire stops on to the concrete --in other words remove foam where they fit Just a guess though that would be a plus for durisol+isotex (spider ties full concrete shell inc roof) as the outside is not flammable ,so easy to fix direct to it or do they class the concrete as good enough -- sure fire won,t go through it if all penetrations are sealed ,but if fire starts in void --somehow then it could race up to the roof as insulation burns in void -, maybe it passes flame spread time test without need for them everything burns if you get it hot enough !! try setting fire to a spare block bit you have left over a tricky one let us know what you find out please

sounds dangerous to me --no way can i see screed company taking responsibility for tiles coming loose later down the line --they will say it was the way they were laid you need to get know its correct now before going further

@Redoctober thank you a very nice example of where to fit fire stops + good looking house and I presume they are nailed to the frame not stuck to the house wrap,cos if that caught fire they could fall off never seen any on houses built up here when under construction and certainly my own house built( 1978 Tf) does not have any . when I moved in and started looking for savings i found the air bricks were not ducted to the sub floor area --just a grille through outer brick and then a hole in the inner sub wall, force 9 gale up the void between outer brick and TF ,and definately no fire stops around penetrations like the bog pipe going from top floor to sub Floor. and top of the cavity wall open where it meets the loft. when did the requirement for firestops come in?