scottishjohn

that must have been that well known Australian building co. "she,ll be right bruce " i did read somewhere that some makers claim that their membranes self seal small holes ,but they also said the titanic was unsinkable .LOL .I,m sure they went over it all and patched the nail holes with tape as they fitted real batons

Ihad carpet floor when i did my first UFH system in present house so i ring up axminster to ask on the insulation value of it,couldn,t afford new tiles at same time --not a clue was the reply it was 20years ago --never been asked that they said all i can say is it did work but not as well as the cermaic tiles i replaced it with 6years later but i suspect with a well insulated concrete floor,so you not loosing heat downwards you will notice little difference , may be change in temp will be slower and it did spread the heat out

https://www.threaverural.co.uk/property/greenlaw-mansion/ this looks very much a bargain price ---same cost as a modest house in london ? thats the problem with building top spec hoses here --you struggle to get cost back if its more than a shoe box

if you want it to last for a long time get a 2 pack type --cheap single pack about £20-30 per 5litres-buy a cheap floor brush --done in a very short time

politician =smart meter both promise to make things better both just make things worse +cost us loads of money in the process

in scotland we have had a triple effect --financial downturn in 2008 which carried on longer in scotland then england --then along came the poison dwarf and her mate humpty dumpty with the indendence ref humpty dumpty is gone but we now have snp leader in westminster -- numpty dumpty stirring it up all the time wanting indi-ref2 and trying to stop brexit just very little movement in a lot of areas of the economy --.the upside may be if you can do it in these prolonged bad conditions ,then it can only get better?

same goes for pavoirs open a few pallets at once and mix them up .

not sure i,m happy with temporary batons nailed to membrane just to hold it on --it will be full of exposed holes once you fit correct batons structure. surely just fix the vertical ones as you lay the membrane to hold it in place ?

that could work if you put in the rebar where the lintels would be and around where the door frames would be ,but would be waste of concrete and icf forms +you would not have insulation all around the concrete after you cut the holes . just make very stong "bucks " as the yanks call them --linings to all openings in wood and cross braced, most SE,s will want some rebar around big load areas to spread the load around the "holes" and to stop possible cracks "seems like a long for a short cut"

28days is what they normally reckon for concrete to get to most of its hardness,then its to full strength in about 20-30 years

at least you it hasn,t got a hole in the bottom of it

suspect you are right ,due to the signs at the joint where they may used a grinder to finish them off at that price i would expect bits to be tig welded together anyway and nice fillet showing

maybe a good post on facebook with pictures might get some action from them you could reply saying how un happy you are are going to post pictures --before you actually do it certainly people need to know these mega priced doors are shite

ask them what you should be doing --if they want to play that card ,then where was the instructions on how to maintain these doors,considering they are more expensive than a lot of cars ,which have a documented service schedule I used have same problem with chinese ex manifolds ,supposedly 316s/s - but they not only blued but in 6 months turned brown the manifolds and ex systems i had made by BTB still sell s/hand 10-15years at a premium later as they still have no major signs of corrosion on them even now when isee them advertisedo neabay etc the car has rotted away ,but exsystme is still there .LOL to be fair my fancy s/c ex system solld for £780 +£360 for a maniflold in 2001. and i only stopped getting them made in batchs of ten when the price went over £1000 for a system . BTB now only do very exotic f1 and special systems and last price i got for manifolds in 2010 was £750 each to me-- kind of killed the market for saxo /106 customers the point is there are lots of dif spec s/s that are classed as 316 etc

I hope to be able to show you at some point the thing i.m going for is not on open sale at this time and if it were i am pretty sure i would be blown out the water by some one with shed loads of money . so we have to try to go slowly

about as much as a dose of the clap but you can get rid of the clap .LOL

and here its only at certain times on 2 days a week as well 1400-1600 hours tuesdays and fridays ithink

that brings in something that applies in scotland ,if you rebuilding a house -you can move the footprint to anywhere within the curtlidge of the plot , but only if its done in the planning stage so to move it you need to go back to planning one here did that and the bc man spotted it when founds were down --made them move it ,so new founds

my thoughts would be thats chinese grade 316 - -not real marine grade(304) ,which is the best type for corrosion ressitance or it was covered in a sticky protective layer that left some glue behind try cleaning with a solvent --if it goes thats your answer --remains of a protective film of some sort worth a a try ? don,t think it will be as its looks worst where the tube has been radially cut to fit other bit what do you do --clean them then clear lacquer? how long was the warranty on the doors?

slight sag is what they do usually , not stretched tight

that was when you had drafty attic spaces -and the gaps were to allow the WET sarking boards to expand -the drafty attics were your ventilation void up to the ridge vents and there was no membrane of any type just plenty of tile overlap and not low an angle on roof so that kind of goes against any modern thinking

I suppose if you have a live in roof space ,then I can see you might put VCL/air tightness barrier under sarking and then breathable membrane above it ? I just cannot see any good reason for allowing sarking to get wet /damp or have the possibility of the membrane flapping and over time failing because its moving about with high winds seen some sips roofs that use full stick on membranes as well, fine provided you definately will never get any moisture on inside which will start rot over time

thats how i see it. and i dont think it matters what type of roof finish you have ,that where you stop the water,before it gets to sarking put an extra one if you like between vertical batons and counter batons ,if you like --seen that done

thats an "English type roof ", older houses built there had the tar paper done like that or even no tar paper at all just slates/tiles into a cold roof void certainly all SIPS roofs are done the other way membrane then counter batons to give the vented area ,but to the outside of the membrane membrane goes direct to sips the house i have now built in 70.s has-plywood sheathing ,then tar paper ,then batons and tiles .

that seems wrong to me water proof/ breathable membrane is last thing before tile batons surely?