scottishjohn

this looks is very interesting development in TF construction --

when governments do their bit I will do mine and they can start with air travel and the pollution that causes and follow that up by stopping all coal fired power stations world wide what i can do to make any difference is--sod all. making it viable for us to help is what is needed and as long as we get taxed the way we are we need all the help we can get how about a tax credit for all green improvements?. thats a very low cost to them the same as registered charities get if you make a donation ? you give them£10 --they get tax credit form government for same amount

I,m probably being thick I,m sure you will correct me ,why would you need an accumulator of 500litres-- and by that you mean a tank with a diaphram in it to keep pressure up as you use this stored volume ? if your water pipes in the house were of a large enough bore to start with and your water pressure was high enough ,there would be no problem or is it a mains supply sizing problem as well. stands to reason if you trying to tun 2 or 3 outlets supplied by 15mm pipes then they need to be connected to much large diameter pipe so flow rate and pressure does not drop. a 22mm pipe will not run 2 X 15mm at same flow as it can run one,so pressure will drop --28mm pipe could -- not many will be using 28mm as ring main for cold or hot supply in house EG large pipe with manifold where the 3 smaller ones come from -,not just teeing 3 outlets off one 15mm pipe and expect them all to flow full at same time . a booster pump to lift your mains pressure in the house ? or just a booster pump on the shower ? Could this just be a function of the trend to use smaller pipes than people used to use ,and because no one uses gravity cold water tanks any more if you had toilets etc connected to a gravity tank in loft there is no problem a good reason to use a rainwater harvesting tank and pump for toilets +washing machine+ garden hoses etc plus less metered water usage for those in England

my build project i am looking at has enough space for as much Pv as i can afford to buy , but the export price is what will swing it ,until that alone can get a payback in that sort of time scale its still not a viable really . I am guessing your calculation is on the assumption that you will continue to use 90%of your production , so unless you can use that amount then its really still a "tree hugger " thing I suppose one could say if you used all this pv to heat a thermal store for UFH etc then your COP would be around 2.5-3.0 in real terms so the question is ,when do we forget heat pumps and just use Pv to heat and store water? and then costs of a large storage system will be the problem which brings it full circle to solar thermal --and that is where that falls down --cost of large enough storage I know I am simplifying some things --but thats the basic outline as i see it

so how long to get a draw with cost of panels verus savings on buying energy ? which is the only thing that really matters energy prices will keep rising as sure as the sun comes up ,so how many years before you start to see the benefit of the investment

only comment i would make at this stage is that from my investigations your taking about £30 persqm for closed cell foam when done to the inside of a bulding( before you closed wall with PB) at 100mm thickness ,and the cost to go down to 50mm was not that much cheaper once they are doing it. but to fill a cavity -apart from not being able t be certain its all filled with no voids ,they will have to be drilling walls every meter or so both horizontally and vertically before they even start . so i can,t see it being that cheap?

probably different as you have private water companies .in scotland we don,t I know once upon a time if you had your own well and sewerage system and no gutters --there was no water charge in the rates bill of any sort now there is an amount that all pay no matter how you deal with sewerage +surface water. and water meters for domestic are few and far between here Re the council rate charges+bands https://dumgal.gov.uk/article/15261/Council-tax-bands-and-charges

and i am guessing that when you say your surface water is going into your soak-away they will tell you that it eventually ends up in the river ,so you still have pay something. commercial is different in scotland as they calculate total roof area roof and any tarmaced area on property and make an charge on that area for surface water . then foul water is a percentage of fresh water usage . I would leave well enough alone if i were you

the main thing is to have big enough cable in at this time for anything later ,like maybe a few holiday cottages+a big pv array -nothing for sure just trying cost worst case scenario and not have up grade supply later if it all works out

budget price has now been obtained from crown Utilities waiting for another from scottish power networks was not as far away as I thought -130m and asked for quote for 60kva 3phase,which includes transformer budget cost --that could change , hte quote is with me digging trenchs +cutting trees down for the underground cable etc £26k+vat It gives me a clue at least

find one with no roof --then no survey needed

I have spent last 9 months studying ALL ICF types I could find of the poly types ,but looks like i may be rebuilding an old house now instead- my choice would be Isodom2000 or integraspec for poly type Isotex for woodcrete type all worth a look if you thinking of ICF I,m sure they all work fine is care is taken I certainly wouldn,t be put off using TF just cos you have to fit memebranes , sure there are a lots more boring things in any build job you have to do

this will be why that type(durisol +Isotex) always seem to suggest a parge coat on outside to seal it up .if not using a membrane velox type would not need it as it is a conitnous wall of concrete --no webs or hard plaster internally and chase wiring in to the walls ,same goes for poly types no big deal to use one of those stucco/tirolean spray things to fill up the surface on outside before final cladding I still think a VCL under the plasterboard if going that with service void, would be a good idea though ?

plenty of space for a GSHP system would make an ideal wedding destination /function hotel you would think . big downside i see is only 3 bathrooms --so everyone would expect ensuite now- but even then it still looks a gift

unbelievable value i know cos pretty sure the owners ran out of money --so maybe a quick offer under the 1,000,000 might secure it when you look through the picces you can see where they spent their money that,s what brexit and threats of another scottish ref does to house prices

no problem i as long as your dhw tank is cycled above the threshold periodically ,you don,t have to store water at high temp all the tine and save money

why would you want dhw at 60c --you can,t put your hands under it ,just going to be putting more cold in it to be able to use it? all ashp have a dedicated dhw function ,where it swops from under floor to dhw tank when DHW tank temp drops -but it will not heat to 60c more like 52-55c or less if you want -,but it will automatically cycle ,now and then higher to kill any legionella possibility at this time gas boiler will be cheaper --until they raise taxes on fossil fuels

@JSHarris In another thread you stated main build was £630per sq m --but your final cost was £1380 sqm -just shows the difference between basic shell and finished article -and that how people go way over budget, in the finishing off if not careful , which you obviously were

just for a laugh see what you can get in an area thats has low property values, https://search.savills.com/property-detail/gbglrsgls140163

you seem to be trying to get all this advice and information on the NHS without doing the hard yards yourself--and with an unrealistic budget It don,t work like that and remember the old adage offer peanuts and all you get is monkey's. please accept the prices you have been quoted as correct £1300 -2000 pr sqm --dependant on your choice of materials and fitments cheaper is good --but don,t bet on it at this stage --in that price is professional costs for plans and advice you got to spend some money to see if it is viable - PP is the first money you need to spend ,if you don,t have a plan ready to accompany a full planning application that means an architect to draw up the plans after he has discussed what you want and what you can afford not trying to be hard on you --but at some point you have to spend some money i recently blew £500 on a topographical survey on some land to prove what i thought that the planning was not usable .cos the detail on it given by land owner was incorrect - didn't buy the land so saved myself a lot more than the cost of the survey

would it not need to be 170mm TF if no blockwork+ cavity to get same insulation value? ask your frame maker

how you going to seal each panel to next one -for certain , long way off yet anyway -just throwing ideas about . you are probably right -will need to look at how to get drains and things in anyway before any final decision is made -the knee jerk reaction is flatten and start again -,but time to some extent to build is not a problem,other than my age .LOL i certainly have the workshop space to prefab things off site and thoughts are to put another floor /viewing lounge on the top to take advantage of the views still trying to get it bought at this time

the second picture is the garage /stable which are attached to end of main house--its big and its seems criminal to pull it all down .note the 2 stone staircase on outside to get to the upper floor of it

I understand what you say ,and sort of agree ,but as its had no roof for 20years + and the walls look same as they do in the pictures even now after many winters ,then i am fairly certain the walls are very free draining or frost would have burst them by now if they were not i am trying to keep the inside as large as possible and keep wall thickness to below 3foot !! suggestions on how to make the new inner wall water proof on the OUTSIDE , next to the stone wall when you can only get at one side is the problem hence the thought of using closed cell spray foam as a layer on it and leave top of wall open and vented to outside

J just plotting my next build and it may well be an old granite shell which i will build a new house inside so it seems that pur closed cell foam to seal inside of wall seems possible ,but I was thinking of attaching studs to the wall as well then 2L2(foil+bubbles) over these studs as another vapour barrier# so the question is does anybody know of something that can stick studs to walls ,which will act as a DPC on the studs and then allow frame work to built up on them at same time , roof loads will be on the outer walls the water in the walls will have to evoporate ,over time ,out of the top of the walls ,as it was pointed 50years ago with granite sand +cement, no roof for last 20 years --not a crack in sight ,even though we have 8-10"diameter by 25ft tall trees growing out of the bottom of the walls in 2 places where the walls meet the ground open to other suggestions the outer walls are so perfect it seems a crime to knock it down and build a totally modern thing.its built on bedrock so no worries about foundations . maybe i,m thinking wrong ,maybe just re-roof it build interior framing with 50mm gap to walls ,then closed cell foam all the walls and around the studs as well ? these pictures are from 1970 -- its a lot more "bushed up" now