scottishjohn

I would also comment that your £900 sqm is an unrealistic price if you are including everyting not just the shell and if itis only you building it --no sub contractors you won,t be done in 9months

google zonts +zuckles these are adjustable units that you screw to wood ,you need to be able to adjust your braces to get wall straight and vertical then sell on after job ,or you can maybe hire them , If you have no bought icf yet --i would ask them for price of hire . some are more sensible than others. If you are ireland why are you not using the system made there ? integraspec that must surely be a better idea or maybe you should look at Isotex or durisol which does not need anything like the same bracing as they are woodcrete blocks you stack screwing on ply at corners and round other delicate bits is enough . If you want to go poly blocks then also look at isodom2000 --has more ready made funny shape sections than nay other system --made in poland must be 30 dif type of blocks they make overall there must be over 20 different block suplliers in poly type then the odd one out is VELOX -- also needs very little bracing and if you going to do it your self ,made worth a look ,

my experience of valuers is that they don,t do a real valuation anymore, just look at prices houses sell for in same road --and how good you have made yours makes little or no difference . same way as zoopla etc do it -when you look at house prices for a road as @JSHarris said i was told to remove my solar thermal panels as it would lower the value . I could take a wild guess and say the price of the plot you are looking at will have been priced so there will be NO profit in building and selling within at least next 10 years same as you would --if you were the seller I had experience with a commercial valuer when I wanted a valuation on my big building --price they came back with was not right when challenged they said that they do their valuation by looking at what other similar buildings have sold for in last 12months in same area - said there no others like mine around here . "no he says i compared with glasgow" where there are lots of buildings empty and none with parking for 30 cars and a compound the you could build another 30m x24m building on mine is the only one for 30 miles and i already have refused prices better than he said mine is worth. to build a new building not including land or services it would cost nearly twice what this valuer says it is worth !! so bottom line is your guess is probably as good as any valuer and price will always assume a very low internal basic spec there are always 3 prices for anything what you would like what someone will offer the amount you will take to get rid of it fit Hi-spec internals ,but do not expect to get paid for them if you sell any time soon

I have just put in a request for this "secret house" which is along way from a 3phase pole so we will see what they say to me i,ve asked for 60kva 3 phase

just a suggestion tile right under the door ?- then a fix a sealed threshold plate, if needed to tiles ?

if heat is a problem why do they not have a fan ?

you sure you were not talking to the floor sweeper? is this house an oak framed unit? where you will have point loads where the frames are or usual TF panels etc ? if std TF why would spreading the load over a larger area in a re enforced slab be a downside?

vodka is what it is usually turned into or the basic alcohol for gin .LOL

we have "creetown granite" here --used to make london bridge ,liverpool docks and cobble stones --thats the same the stone masons can drill it ,but i doubt a hand held one will work very well . they definitely use core drills for granite , i got a few of the cores they cut out of head stones where they put the flower pot. bbut most of the headstones come ready cut from china now --much cheaper you know the local company "galloway granite " quoted for the scottish parliament building ,as did one from aberdeen --but the order went to china !!! how could they do that for scotlands own parliament building !!! they use a wire saw to slice it up with a mixture of carborundum +water. its like a huge band saw the wire saw has a main wire with another one spiralled wrapped round it and the cutting paste sits in the gap and does most of the cutting or should i say rubbing its way through which just proves the old saying "given long enough you can piss a hole in a stone" a bit like self build? maybe something more modern now --but thats what local granite works uses a big block could take a day to cut one side still use the old split wedges to get large blocks out of quarry jack hammer a row of holes along all sides, then drive in a split hollow tubes --then hammer in taper pins and just keeping going round them evenly till it splits. the art in it is knowing the sound when you hit them to keep it even so it splits where you want it too,so i,m told

you can use loads of water cos a little will make mud which could clog it or just cut slower and keep pulling it out to clear the crap big drill s have a water feed and big drills on a lathe have a hole up the centre for cutting fluid which takes away the swarf as well

bottom line has always been and always will be cheap drills don,t last --but if you only using big sizes once --then cheap is maybe ok you want drills to last --then slow down the speed ,lubricate the cut if possible and don,t let them get hot,cos that will blunt them quicker than anything "speeds and feeds" as my dad kept telling me he started work in whitworths in manchester ,then onto Gorton tank --they made steam locos and when you are using a clamp on hand powered drilling railway chassis to fasten bits on --you don,t want to be blunting drills to often you soon learn all about drill sharpening ,seems to be a dying art now and then machine tool company in the 30,s --

what type of shank are you looking for on this drill? https://www.ukdrills.com/masonry/extreme-masonry-concrete-drill-bit try here all types of drills

so how long before you can cover it in ? that is not the same as blown cellulose where you put a plastic barrier up first and fill through hole ,so must rely on being open to dry out

I don,t like the sound of "wet " when its to do with old shredded newspapers --thats called paper mache !! and wet +wood+ paper and our climate sounds like mold to me

the man was worried about off gassing of the foam

I remember going round hampden court gardens and i heard another visitor one ask one of the gardeners how they got such a good lawn "simple he says just keep cutting it for 500 years !!" LOL

asbestos is still alright --if you do not disturb it making dust over boarding and sealing is quite often done to old asbestos panels --used to be used in plaster amongst other things,so if you knocking down an old plaster coated wall --you might want to damp it down just in case +wear masks

If you air tight barrier is good --won,t be problem anyway -as nothing can get through it. If it can your barrier is crap !!

its just cheaper not to fit it? maybe a fashion thing as well ? maybe a coving with built in led down lighting is the next thing

a bit ugly if that finished picture of installation

If you have 400mm thickness i am guessing that is way more than was required to replace normal pir foam fitment in a std house ,which is what i assume his time was based on whne quoting me comparison what thickness of pir does your 400mm equate to ?

for weird shape houses with lots of funny spaces maybe a combination of both spray(diy kits) and the other types will be a good compromise ? what my local installer told me was sheet insulation will be cheaper if you are fitting it yourself and presuming you are taking the time to make good fitting sheet insulation --a long job but if paying for complete job to be done for you,then its about the same by the time you have paid for fitting of sheet ,but foam will be definitely air tight and done in one day !! this is what i have been told

larry hunn -- is a GOD makes it look so easy If i were to takes lessons it would be from him

I suppose one or two men could do it with this tool http://www.progrestools.com/handling-equipment/montolit-lifttile-handling-system I,m betting these tiles you have are meant to be laid with no grout gaps as well? so would have to be lowered vertically into position as well

use ready mixed pointing mortar in a gun -? if you use tile spacers --if you leave them in won,t be much covering with mortar ,depending on thickness of slip you choose