scottishjohn

that,s your choice ---been used for 40 years --so its obviously not a problem . what locks them in place --its called gravity and if it really worried you --then just use a bit of "thin joint mortar or low expansion foam on each one ? and if you really want belt and braces only go 5 rows and then fill --its never going to be a problem is it ? If we going to be silly a wayward teenager could set fire to your poly blocks ??,or one with an electric battery powered carving knife woodcrete does not burn ,so another advantage should your house catch fire

the span on that cottage would lend itself to SIPS roof ,then you would have high ceiling living space-- I am guessing the floor will need a new concrete one,time to go UFH ?,so by the time you done top and bottom -all you are not doing is the walls your 600m thick walls have same insulation value ,or less then than a 300mm insulated wood frame --so the new house would give more space internally on same foot print then cover it with stone facia --it will look the same you going to want to change windows at some point --so again -you can see why i,m suggesting you think hard before doing anything

first of all -the airtightness thing is something poly men say -easy sorted - you still have an exterior house wrap, if you are cladding on any type and an interior VCL on all if you really worried you can parge coat --very thin sand =cement to fill up surface - -but then maybe you want to render direct on to it or fit bricks slips to it .which you can maybe you want to hard plaster inside -which will be your air barrier ,and bury electrics in wall--i prefer idea of batons and service void and PB+skim transport cost --ask the supplier straight way you just saved £1800 ? of bracing costs , no need for water proof concrete durisol is not as dimensionally correct as isotex --and has more linking webs ,but still a good product you could, if you can buy cement and gravel mix cheaper than ready mixed, -do it a bit at a time ,and not use a pump at all --thats £500 a day? no one builds poly ICF systems up to 10 storeys as some of the woodcrete do . I,m not am isotex salesman -- ,just i have been studying all the dif systems now for a year while trying to get a plot and being an old fart I like the idea i can build it a bit at a time .. all i,m really saying is do some more homework -all the systems will work ,but whats suits me may not suit you . ?

check out isotex --no bracing needed --for uk you won,t need rebar ,except round window=door openings- you don,t have to use concrete flor if you don,t want--uk agent https://insulhubuk.com/

after tiling for me,less cuts on tiles and nice joints to woodwork and easy to use decorators mastic to fill minor gaps before painting skirting etc

welcome you have come to the right place a plan of property and building AND PICTURES will help you all sorts of good advice on ways you could proceed just to play devils advocate have you considered just flattening it and rebuilding ,as trying to make an old house up to modern stds is usually a lot more expensive than you first think and never as good because of compromises old house will cause try to cost it all out . i understand the money problems --but maybe a good think about final result could make you look more long term maybe you could build around old house and then flatten old one or if you have space in the plot -build new one then flatten old one? so you could do it yourself over time ? i suggest lots of thinking and plotting and planning , maybe a talk with planning /building control about what they will allow ,you will need to involve them anyway if you going to do what you suggest

or maybe price is so tight that its not viable to make more production facilities?. last time i saw this the excuse was that a kiln was down for a refit --and it cost too much for the return on costs to refurbish it which is far more probable. If there was profit to be made --then a new plant would be built we are still in a depressed world economy and investments by big companies are tight

my best mate --who i only meet about 10 years ago ,who is now 74 !!! started when he was 14 still plasters to keep fit,I tried it a few times under his expert eye -- and got shouted at a lot It became very apparent that the way you do it is the key to not only doing it well but protecting the body ,cos yes it is very hard on the body if your technique is not correct . so yes If you intending on doing a lot of plastering getting instruction from a master would be well worth it ,if you can find one If you got bad back and knees + joints--like me then ,good luck

I was going by what you were saying here If they not got the plans yet --it will be a miracle if you get full PP in next month here it would be 3 months MINIMUM after they got the plans !!

planning in most places will require tanking for a basement --so check that out trying to sort a damp basement later will cost many times more a basement is somewhere to use as the utility area -so freeing up living space --maybe that could cut down footprint and save money ? not something I would not skimp on at this stage skimping on getting out of ground is not a good idea --everything sits on that post the plan up would help for people to give ideas, but if they already submitted you cannot change them easily if plans is already submitted --then any changes will cost you money --so get them all at one time. once plan is passed any changes will cause you headaches + money to alter

remember what your wood work teacher told .LOL measure 3 times ,mark twice ,cut once

no need to aplogize in any way -- its all your choices-its your build and your money I have already been chided for a harsh response getting the plan correct before you start cannot be over stressed ,as getting things wrong now will cost you double later

i,M afraid you are not listening to the advice you are being given from many sources you started off by saying "first self build " well if you not going to listen why ask for help? "fabric first " is always the way to get a good build retro fitting some things is very expensive --so do it at design stage post up your plans and then wait for comments and suggestions is the best "free advice "your going to get . If it is purely money --then don't start yet -save up some more .plot is not going anywhere biggest mistake you will make . do some more resreach --please !!

bearing in mind the grass that is sown with is required to grow high and not thick --unless you rip it up it will always be just a field you could under sow it with another type of seed ? maybe the farmer is the one to ask --

a no brainer -- when you want to put an extension on you might have to ask his permission possibly ,have you got a copy of the agreement and have you read it - just buy it

when i was looking at icf not one of the suppliers had any problem with supply only ,most actually promised to give on site training and be there for first pour. just keep looking around at different systems and study all the videos for a few weeks, you will see the differences between the systems the strengths and weaknesses have you got a design +plans ? planning permission? and services all sorted out ? quote for the foundations ? insulated slab ? strip founds ? do all that first before getting too wound up in what system once you have then then its time to send those plans of to the suppliers an wait for the quotes . If you want help post your plans on here and some of the "gurus" will pass constructive comments with suggestions

please note what @nodsays if you start getting contracts in you have not a hope in hell for doing it for that price- if you can i,ll employ them .LOL we are all just preparing you for the realities we all thought we could do it for next to nothing at the planning stage . not having a go at you in any way shape or form

including plot?

well they haven,t -and in some ways they are correct and others they are wrong what the market will pay is always the proof of what something is worth I know someone who just sold a 1971 landrover ,a petrol one for £5500-- ok chassis is good etc ----market has gone mad with somethings . i wouldn,t give you £500 for an old landrover --terrible to drive ,unreliable , and terrible mpg +pollution . everyone to their own

I would also comment that your £900 sqm is an unrealistic price if you are including everyting not just the shell and if itis only you building it --no sub contractors you won,t be done in 9months

google zonts +zuckles these are adjustable units that you screw to wood ,you need to be able to adjust your braces to get wall straight and vertical then sell on after job ,or you can maybe hire them , If you have no bought icf yet --i would ask them for price of hire . some are more sensible than others. If you are ireland why are you not using the system made there ? integraspec that must surely be a better idea or maybe you should look at Isotex or durisol which does not need anything like the same bracing as they are woodcrete blocks you stack screwing on ply at corners and round other delicate bits is enough . If you want to go poly blocks then also look at isodom2000 --has more ready made funny shape sections than nay other system --made in poland must be 30 dif type of blocks they make overall there must be over 20 different block suplliers in poly type then the odd one out is VELOX -- also needs very little bracing and if you going to do it your self ,made worth a look ,

my experience of valuers is that they don,t do a real valuation anymore, just look at prices houses sell for in same road --and how good you have made yours makes little or no difference . same way as zoopla etc do it -when you look at house prices for a road as @JSHarris said i was told to remove my solar thermal panels as it would lower the value . I could take a wild guess and say the price of the plot you are looking at will have been priced so there will be NO profit in building and selling within at least next 10 years same as you would --if you were the seller I had experience with a commercial valuer when I wanted a valuation on my big building --price they came back with was not right when challenged they said that they do their valuation by looking at what other similar buildings have sold for in last 12months in same area - said there no others like mine around here . "no he says i compared with glasgow" where there are lots of buildings empty and none with parking for 30 cars and a compound the you could build another 30m x24m building on mine is the only one for 30 miles and i already have refused prices better than he said mine is worth. to build a new building not including land or services it would cost nearly twice what this valuer says it is worth !! so bottom line is your guess is probably as good as any valuer and price will always assume a very low internal basic spec there are always 3 prices for anything what you would like what someone will offer the amount you will take to get rid of it fit Hi-spec internals ,but do not expect to get paid for them if you sell any time soon

I have just put in a request for this "secret house" which is along way from a 3phase pole so we will see what they say to me i,ve asked for 60kva 3 phase

just a suggestion tile right under the door ?- then a fix a sealed threshold plate, if needed to tiles ?

if heat is a problem why do they not have a fan ?