scottishjohn

I am probably a philistine as I wouldn,t spend a fraction of that for any picture

not to me It wouldn,t be - -but hey everybody to their own .

its not even a picture its a print!!!!! surely now you have a picture of it you should be able to make your own ?

well with a concrete blinding you won,t get mushrooms or other fungi growing in the bare soil so seems a sensible idea to me .

no wonder and good riddance the old ones with the handle that would pinch your flesh if it slipped off --most will have gone same way as my old dads ones hurled a great distance after nipping you helped on their way with much cursing don,t think HSE would allow them to be sold anymore I hate cheap "mole grips --i,m no superman ,but if i can bend the frame when locking them up on a job --no good you buying moles --get moles grips , Irwin or vicegrips

have you checked out what the market value the house would be in your area when its done ? cos you heading for 500K with land -- no point in building something you can never sell again at a profit just something to consider -

It is if you can charlie theron to lay them If ICF check out durisol +Isotex

If current house is block --then i would be thinking the same cavity block is a good choice ,especially as you are having a garage --+ workshop under it block walls are easy good for fixing things too ,and you could could just paint them in garage ? any system will do it ,but I doubt there is one that is half the price of the other ones. small extension ,then maybe ICF and hand mix the concrete if you time and want to save money -can,t lay blocks , or maybe look at thin joint block system --easier for novice to lay good walls p-roviding first row is right . I,m not pushing any type --do some homework

so assuming the garage is not fully tiled etc that cost sqm will be lower and interior spec of house could make a big dif some people on here are spending 30k on windows roofing cab be from £12 sqm to over £100 depending on type you choose so you can see until you spec up the build its hard to be anything but a guesstimate all depends on spec and how much hunting you do for better prices post up your plan --people will give you good ideas for cost savings

270sqm is a BIG house--

Ok well id need to borrow 100k, my wife earns 20 and i withdraw about that from the business BUT my profit share from the business wont be anywhere near as much as that, are they likely to refuse me? provided shows on your p6o --then it will be counted -- dividends will not be included as they could vary,you would need to show they never changed

so why would you buy internorm ?

and your age --if older ,that will be a another problem you will only know when you start asking ,# so suggestions from people on here for a good self build mortgages would help you maybe?

ok thats sounds worth a look then

ok no more economic then than high quality wood framed alluminium coverd windows

but still alot more expensive ? grp frames I had also thought about .lol

yep thats it -and you can do that to nay wall ,polyblocks ,wood crete ,,blokcs etc etc

that is a question that has puzzled me for some time why plastic frames are not as good as wood for insulation? is it the hollow nature of the extrusions they are made from ? and if so why don,t they fill them with foam ? or is it the amount of metal that is needed in them to make them strong enough ?

i think its so the T&G fit together right --any resin in joint could make it harder to fit . maybe if you running out of time to fit grp same day -then just coat the boarding once fixed + sheet it up before you leave for the day ?,but will end costing more in resin as it will not help wet out the cloth

and what was the make of your ICF?

again what is very obvious from this statement is that the guide lines were not followed and your comment about very experienced--sounds more like couldn,t give a crap a bunch of chancers by your description alone durisol would not suggest a 4m high pour --so not a product problem ,and you would need same snorkel attachment for a poly pour .

as usual there has been thread creep if you got the money then 1 pour is good -- up to 2.4m is what isotex says and maybe more if there are internal walls that join in to outside ones this suggestion of multiple pours or hand mixing was for someone who has sod all money but can take time to do it at his own pace no problem with UV ,like poly has and has to be rubbed off before rendering or any sort of finish applied to it so woodcrete is very flexible for the extended builder and the way he wishes to do it

correct cured is 28days I know both durisol +isotex and velox etc have no problem with it

how many 5mm high walls are poured in one go with poly --the hydraulic pressure on the bottom would be mega bricks and mortar are not monolithic for that matter. they seem to stay up OK you are exagerating a nothing problem IMHO the walls in uk on most ICf builds do not even have rebar vertically --just round frames and openings-not needed in our non earthquake country for the load a normal house

how many months are you talking about between pours? ,you not going to top of last block anyway ,or polishing up the surface there will be plenty of grip between the layers - not all poly systems are poured at one go either . i suppose if you want to be belt and braces then drop some re-bar in you seen how hard it can to get waste concrete up off a floor ,that probably dusty + smooth --not even a rough surface