scottishjohn

It is if you can charlie theron to lay them If ICF check out durisol +Isotex

If current house is block --then i would be thinking the same cavity block is a good choice ,especially as you are having a garage --+ workshop under it block walls are easy good for fixing things too ,and you could could just paint them in garage ? any system will do it ,but I doubt there is one that is half the price of the other ones. small extension ,then maybe ICF and hand mix the concrete if you time and want to save money -can,t lay blocks , or maybe look at thin joint block system --easier for novice to lay good walls p-roviding first row is right . I,m not pushing any type --do some homework

so assuming the garage is not fully tiled etc that cost sqm will be lower and interior spec of house could make a big dif some people on here are spending 30k on windows roofing cab be from £12 sqm to over £100 depending on type you choose so you can see until you spec up the build its hard to be anything but a guesstimate all depends on spec and how much hunting you do for better prices post up your plan --people will give you good ideas for cost savings

270sqm is a BIG house--

Ok well id need to borrow 100k, my wife earns 20 and i withdraw about that from the business BUT my profit share from the business wont be anywhere near as much as that, are they likely to refuse me? provided shows on your p6o --then it will be counted -- dividends will not be included as they could vary,you would need to show they never changed

so why would you buy internorm ?

and your age --if older ,that will be a another problem you will only know when you start asking ,# so suggestions from people on here for a good self build mortgages would help you maybe?

ok thats sounds worth a look then

ok no more economic then than high quality wood framed alluminium coverd windows

but still alot more expensive ? grp frames I had also thought about .lol

yep thats it -and you can do that to nay wall ,polyblocks ,wood crete ,,blokcs etc etc

that is a question that has puzzled me for some time why plastic frames are not as good as wood for insulation? is it the hollow nature of the extrusions they are made from ? and if so why don,t they fill them with foam ? or is it the amount of metal that is needed in them to make them strong enough ?

i think its so the T&G fit together right --any resin in joint could make it harder to fit . maybe if you running out of time to fit grp same day -then just coat the boarding once fixed + sheet it up before you leave for the day ?,but will end costing more in resin as it will not help wet out the cloth

and what was the make of your ICF?

again what is very obvious from this statement is that the guide lines were not followed and your comment about very experienced--sounds more like couldn,t give a crap a bunch of chancers by your description alone durisol would not suggest a 4m high pour --so not a product problem ,and you would need same snorkel attachment for a poly pour .

as usual there has been thread creep if you got the money then 1 pour is good -- up to 2.4m is what isotex says and maybe more if there are internal walls that join in to outside ones this suggestion of multiple pours or hand mixing was for someone who has sod all money but can take time to do it at his own pace no problem with UV ,like poly has and has to be rubbed off before rendering or any sort of finish applied to it so woodcrete is very flexible for the extended builder and the way he wishes to do it

correct cured is 28days I know both durisol +isotex and velox etc have no problem with it

how many 5mm high walls are poured in one go with poly --the hydraulic pressure on the bottom would be mega bricks and mortar are not monolithic for that matter. they seem to stay up OK you are exagerating a nothing problem IMHO the walls in uk on most ICf builds do not even have rebar vertically --just round frames and openings-not needed in our non earthquake country for the load a normal house

how many months are you talking about between pours? ,you not going to top of last block anyway ,or polishing up the surface there will be plenty of grip between the layers - not all poly systems are poured at one go either . i suppose if you want to be belt and braces then drop some re-bar in you seen how hard it can to get waste concrete up off a floor ,that probably dusty + smooth --not even a rough surface

so to be fair all you grp issues were due to your inexperience of its use grp is the way to go ,if its really hot use less hardener . don,t do it when its frosty wait for a dry day .do not fit new sheeting your going to cover with grp weeks before ,as it will get wet and that will cause adhesion problems ,or rot of boards if you seal it in If you must then it needs to be covered until your GRP day don,t try to do it when its very cold --and damp most professional roofers will not grp a roof unless its new boarding as well ,because of above problems always under harden if anything --but try to be accurate with mix and mix it up very well .lumps in mix is hardener not mixed in and you have a hardener rich bit ,so it goes off quicker in that bit--do more smaller mixs than one BIG mix ,untill you got the hang of how far it will go and how quick you can use it up after your first mix you will see how long it is before it starts to go off . if gel time is too long then make next one slightly more hardener ,and i mean slightly 1% is normal mix ,1.5% -2% is a quick setting mix for very very cold day on a stinking hot day 0.5%--it iwl ljust effect gel time -- it will still harden completly with 0.5%well mixed up seeing your resin bucket smoking,because too much hardener is not funny or good use of resin lean on the roller --should be see through if you have done it enough ,and if surface is wet with resin -you used a bit much --but not a problem + if you laying 2 layers don,t put as much on second time and roll it hard for see though finish I have used a special grp that is uv activated and will go off in any conditions ,but its expensive and only really for emergency roof repairs in winter . it has a shelf life of 30 days and once you open it it will start going off in the daylight .

[deleted by mod] "And how one keeps the walls plumb is beyond me - they are lightweight and have in many cases no inherent stiffness" to say woodcrete has no stiffness just shows how little you know of it ,

LOL most will probably say that about any self build . but if money is the problem and you could do it with no mortgage and were strong in the back and weak in the head ,LOL then that could save alot and spread the coast out over time .I remember my dad built in a double walled brick garage that way around the old wooden one when i was a boy no ready mix in those days ,or even a mixer!!no money for that--so it just happened over a couple of years --it was 40ft by 20ft so me and brother were labours on a sunday morning and we had to make bigger founds outside the old one and built up nearly 2ft at one end

I have no definitive data but if you are using an insulated block 380mm or 440 mm in width that is going to take some wind force to blow it over,never going to happen at sensible dry block stacking heights even the thin one at 330mm --thats still over a foot wide

LOL. yes i,m sure i,m not an Isotex salesman ,although expect some discount ,if i ever get this plot.LOL I like your canadian IGLOOS -- I stand corrected they build hi -rise-- but they will still use lots of bracing , which is not used in Isotex or velox and durisol builds in europe ,australia ,russia . It would appear in far off places, woodcrete is more popular than poly --think its because the poorer people can build it a bit at a time ,mix the concrete by hand and fill the blocks I wonder if in uk it is cheaper to hand mix ? maybe not. seems the mix is not as critical for woodcrete and it drys out quicker cos the water content seeps into the woodcrete drying it out quicker and allowing concrete to firm up quicker and reduce the time the standing hydraulic pressure is a problem ,which is definitely the enemy of poly systems causing most blow outs I am guessing 30 years younger and if it was cheaper to hand mix and no need for expensive pump --I would be looking hard at doing it that way . home from work and do 2 or 3mixs in an evening,soon be done , hunt the net +u-tube ,its all there to see I agree with the wp concrete for basement --but if BC insist on tanking as well ? is that a bit of overkill ? they use external stick on tanking membranes on sips paneled basements in the states not that i like the idea of sips walled basement ,but it must be water proof

and he will be the first to say he built it too high , opinion and connjecture is all you have to support your argument 40 years +of use is what i will take as my proof it works. common sense ,something which you seem to ignoring ,would tell you that professional builders ,who are well used to the system would not be doing it without bracing if it was a very likely scenario .,and all over europe .where as every poly system maker take great pains to make you aware that bracing is mandatory ,what ever the weather it was durisol ,not isotex that fell down suffice it to say he had quality issues with his blocks as well , add excess height and odd size blocks ,theres the reason "unbraced unpoured icf can withstand? Its an important point and worth discussing". no, the makers have already worked all that out and state maximum recommended height at which you pour the wall.