scottishjohn

why would a smaller unit work better at low light and what happens in summer when the panels are making 20% more than the invertor is rated for? more like they never expect you to get full power from the panels ,so saving them money please enlighten me

so you have no signed contract from them where you agreed to the work and the price?

so you have an offical sales contract itemising these parts with a fitted price which you signed ? and no clauses in the contract about other chargable items no signed contract --and you got problems --he said -she said --and if it goes to court they will only look at paperwork to make the decision

I would consider the "roof access equipment" to icclude any scaffolding required to complete the job

Is this amount above and beyond the quotation /sales contract you signed and returned to them ? if so your good If the price is what you signed for --you just got to suck it up- sounds like a simple contract law problem you should have copy of what you signed and what the job entailed

how can they quote to a building that is not there and not even a plan of it drawn on your map,or where you want the meter to be either on the new house or to a meter house they can only quote to a termination in a building or a meter house--also cable will be twice as long going to your X --so until they know exactly they cannot spec a cable or anything else on my plan 4 is where it will enter house 3 from that point on it must be ducted under any hard standing to point 4

with proper quote you will get a plan that looks like this

i would happily have you a bet that when they come to do it --they will decide it would be good if you paid to renew their old transformer . LOL so yes take the higher quote as being the right one --only good news if its the lower one the last distance i am guessing they will want you to supply a ducting for the cable that can be replaced later ,if needed without having to dig up anything-- last 20m always has to be ducted on any supply If you know where and what why not get an actual quote that is fixed for 6 months If that is not inside new house then you will need to make a meter house for them and then you run from that to your house

assume you will need and upgraded transformer

good info

anyone got any suggestions for a sloping percolation field ,as looking at tech dat they all want a flat area --which is going to be hard to find , no water courses -ground is mostly bedrock

agreed when compared to box profile yes -but if we did a survey by numbers then slate roofs on dwellings would be 90% at a guess. and that doc you sent me too is mainly victorian prefabs - we have some around here village halls and hunting lodges and they all look like they should be in australia .LOL we will aree to differ on what constitues traditional - in "brave hearts" time there would be more thatched roofed cottages ,as the peasants could not afford slate and as time went by they were converted to slate I drive by many houses every day built in the 1700,s --all are sarking boards with slate on top --not a tin roof in sight I doubt planning would allow a tin roofed dwelling in any town or village --not in keeping with the rerst of the surrounding buildings. not saying i agree with them --I am one for variation and allowing people to build what ever they want

won,t be using tin roof anyway. it will be traditional --slates even if they are man made ones .LOL

tin is certainly not a traditional use in scotland other than for cattlesheds +even those would have been slate when built if made from stone -- --slates are traditional hey what ever floats your boat ! my neck of the woods is about 250 miles from aviemore on s/w coast between dumfries and stranraer

or use flashband at the end of the flat type to finish off+stop water being driven under with wind ?

Maybe just me ,but i would have to cover that frilly flashing it with something . Is there a reason why you could not use lead backed flashband from frame to roof -- it sticks and shapes very well if applied correctly ?

I ve not seen any of these velux fitted to tin roof where the adpator looks good i would still say my idea of taking a mould off you tin roof to get the shape and making an adaptor in GRP will be best looking and waterproof solution same as i did 25 years ago for my garage roof for my spray booth extractor chimney and thats 30"diameter fits so neat and once sealed own to roof it gets invisible nearly surely would look better if you laid some more roof over that frilly flashing at bottom of frame

looks like the sanadreus fault line

I,m no expert on solar PV--but if you had large water buffer tnaks for UFH and DSHW --you could probably use most or all of it to store your electric as hot water and in summer use it to run your ashp as cooling to the floor --just takes a bit of thinking about -

the way you jusify them is if you can use ALL the power they make --then you are saving 15p per unit agianst the 5p you get selling it back to them that is the only way it starts to look sensible at this time -- so that takes a bit of thinking about --but plenty on here are doing that -- sure someone will point you the right way of going about it and get it dsown to 6 -7 years for payback at 23 years the panels are ready for replacing

are you doing any of the build or are you going for turn key package ? spray iceyen is expensive compared to YOU getting insualtion type of your chice and fitting it --for a bulder it works out about the same --but he don,t have to spend hours fitting slabs or cutting pir boards to make them fit iF YOU DOING IT YOU WIL SAVE ALOT OVER ICENENE SPRAY -- it is the labour parts of the build where you can save big ICF the majority of the insulation is in the build process of outer skin and roofing choice -10sqm for concrete tiles or £100+ for exotic slates ,so many choices to make to get the finished price even for w+w stage and outer skin --rendered or facibnf brick or wood --all different prices and labour content -something else you can do yourrself

how much of a difference- and how have you got an accurate price this quick ?was only yeterday ,.so they cannot have had your plans to give a proper quote on-and thrta is the only way to do a comparison nd can you elaborate on what you mean by "w and w" means -- if its what ithink --just a diffewrent spec of windows and ooors could be 15K of a difference anyway--you need cspecfic detaiuls of what is being used --Iam guessing your wood frame guesstimate is basic dglazing and maybe ICF is better quality or triple glazing there are guys on here who have ppaid 40k just for windows and doors i expect basic TF to be cheaper than icf --but all depending on spec could 10% only for what iwould consider a better build spec -send them plans and get detailed spec on both and if you got nudura quote that will be one of the most expensive types of ICF --more researching required

you got mice there --looks like alot of holes in that block work hpe it don,t crack down that line of holes .LOL

thats the thing --your current house what is the insulation vlaue of its walls and how air tight is it--????? not good and very draughty I,m guessing yes I have one and and wouldn,t use anything else my guess is the horror stories are from badly installed ones in very poorly insulated houses- there will be dozens of people on here with ASHP and no one complains of high elec costs compared with previous systems and or houses thats one thing about this forum --we don,t just share the good news but the cock ups and mistakes as well Ifthere was a forum moto it would be "everyday is a school day "

you used to be able to get something called double bubble --it was smallsachets of an araldite type of stuff --but a bit more flexible iused to buy it in 50 sachet boxs when i had the body shop --used it all the time for small sticking jobs from badges to uphlstery -all sorts of stuff just googled it and yes its still made https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/adhesives-and-sealants/two-part-adhesives/double-bubble-epoxy-adhesive-3gm-x-50/p/ZT1015050X less than £1 a sachet if that won,t stick it --its not stickable