scottishjohn

have you looked at thickness of sip panelled houses where there is nothing but render on outside of the them. and the wall vlaues you stone wall is really no vlaue at all look at the ICF houses like the ISOTEX which has only 120mm of concrete inthe wallanbd then insulation --no need for thick heavy walls for insulation vlaues build another house fully sealed inside your stone shell that is the correct way . I am wrestling with same problem on a larger scale and every time I look at it or get professionalk advice the answer comes back the same. the problem is biuilding an airtight and vapour proof shell inside a bulding that is already there as you cannot easily get at the outisde of the new intewrnal walls to apply a properly sealed layer. and every builder or kit suppler or ICF suppplier has said the same you need to tank the walls and let any moisture go back outwards . 30-40mm of closed cell foam and well cleaned wall is simplest way -do it after you build your internal timber frame and have it encompassing the back of the studs and it wil lock it all together as well as making it water and air tight.. often used for barn conversons for this reason or for stable roofs from inside --its is insulation and holds all the old slates in postion --so water proofs roof as well

I,m just wondering how you intend to get this draft up the wall you going to put air bricks in bottom of walls and then leave a gap at head of wall to allow draft to eith go up into your cold roof and out through ridge OR divert the draft out at eves? no air bricks --no air movement ,once you have done modern sealing of internal walls and skirting boards etc just making a void could cause mold orrotting of you timber frame if no draft to move it out and up and make space dry you surely still need a vapour barrier of some sort at the inside of the void to protect the wood frame how ever you do it the old houses that just had studs +lathe plaster were never heated like modern houses ,so condensation was not a problem and yes moisture came into house from the plaster most large houses had cellars so the space between the outside walls and plaster walls got the draft from the cellar which went right up to roof this is why I say seal the outer walls from what ever you doing to inside look at the detail in ANY type of new housebuild there will be a vapour barrier (house wrap) between outside of house and inside and then an other air barrier to stop air leaks

YES the thermal value of a solid wall is next to nothing compared to insulation 3ft of wall =150mm of PIR all that thick walls do is slow down temp change --thats not the same as insulation and a wet wall is even worse - all you can do is isolate it from the livable part of house so you are not pumping heat into the ground or walls at great expense. this is why you put insukation under your conrete slab so cold wet ground does not suck the heat out of your floor

I,m not sure you have understood me you are digging out floor of whole building to fit new UFH concrete floor with insulation under it so here you fit full vapour barrier under insulation which laps up onto wall and is sealed to tanked wall plenty of choices of how to do it --closed cell foam is only one the only way damp can go is outwards ,through your lime mortar walls --they are breathable there will be no damp from floor as the new poured floor with UFH is sealed by membrane from the ground under it- so no damp inside will not have any moisture because you have isolated it from damp with membrane

If the outside of the stone house is pointed with lime mortar,remove cement pointing and any further painting or render is also permeable ,and remove any that is not then sealing inside will make all moisture go outwards so I do not see the worry with internal moisture if you seal walls and floor in one continuos unit .once sealed no more moisture will get in more insulation will only help you heat loss calcs and lower energy requirement I say again "fabric first "

did the installer supply the windows or did you and he only fitted them If he supplied+fitted then he is the man you will take to court If you supplied you will have much harder job as installer and maker will blame each other

want too much for them --already asked

looking at this lego block maker they say up to 8m - free standing https://blockwalls.co.uk/

just not enough "dots" on it --should be a dot about everywhere you would have a screw you can see the edges where they have gone all round is fine that is why you felt it flexing

are they the block makers? I suspect i will need some lego blocks for retaining walls et --but delivery really is a cost problem for me -- basically its around £7-800 per delivery of an artic load -1.800x600x600 =27 per truck

It would if you had "dwangs" across the upright studs at 500mm centers and lots more screws than a 1200x2400 single sheet suppose it depends how cheap is cheap by the time you add up the extra framing and screws and time . you would still need building wrap on outside to be sure and inner vcl as that would also be your air tightness layer.

what you must remember is that in europe they nearly always spray the plaster on the walls --so it will be different stuff i think not many here doing mechanical plastering yet

size of main doors? --they will be hardest part to insulate well normal priced roller shutter types have crap insulation I am already planning this for my workshop --maybe make big sliding door from metal sips panels or cold store panels and fit seal edge seals

lightweight don,t mean cheap!!

I think you could get best pointing job done and it still will not make it very pretty - and that would be a lot more work than brick slip system and you still will have the bricks which have blown faces andf surface cracks for water to freeze in in some parts -- New windows being replaced and new window ledges -maybe external insulation then slips or render or just render the brickwork ? looking at mock tudor ,that does not look orginal? they had better wood then lots of gaps and nail holes obvious --maybe hiding lots of other crappy brickwork

just get the attachmnet for the power wash and do it right -you probably got stuff dryed onto inside of pipe making something the new stuff can catch on angle has not been as much of a problem since plastic pipes as they are not pourous and much more slippery to start with # leave it flat and yes it will gather up .but a steeper angle not a problem

thats not really going to make you a favorite of the planners is it expect for your application to go to bottom of list if you give them more work .

Ok tell me why people don,t just use thinset maortar when laying conrete blocks ? .like you would if using aircrete blocks surely it would have thew same advantages with concrete blocks as it does with aircrete ones ? like very easy to keep courses in line.If first one is correct .lay more courses beofre it becomes unstable

maybe thissystem would suit you

why is wall thickness the factor you seem to be concentrating on ? small plot and room sizes ? you can get passiv levels on any type of build Is this a self build project ? how much of it do you intend to do yourself do you have plans ? all the above will guide you intype of construction you choose probably If you have plans --then send toa TF company an ICF company .SIPS company your exterior finish you desire will also guide you possibly type of ground you are on can it be slab ,or strip founds ,or piles -- the choice is very complicated until you tie down some real site conditions and choices and your desires first and get some quotes -?

once you accept that you need thinset --then why not build from celcon areo type blocks ,that you can lift in one hand and cut with a wood saw. thinset goes of in 3 hrs like tile cement --so no danger of falling over -and you and stop start as much as you like and i,m guessing 3 or 4 rows a day will be enough for you to do in a day same as lego blokcs --get firsat row perfect and they will not topple ,easier to work out lintels and openings

I was following then bid on a 2018taceuchi tb280 digger did not think i would get it as I was being tight with bids -- anyway i stopped at 9K--it went on to 12 k--still sounded cheap auction ended then I get a message from seller saying winning bid was from polland and it would be 4 weeks before he could pay "would I like it?" How much says me £8750 says seller please send me chassis number so I can check its clear of finance no suprise thats the last i heard from them . and he had 100sales +100% rating WATCH OUT BOYS plenty of scammers out there

everyone has thier own idea on what looks right - all i would say is address all other issues first - brick slips or clading to tudor is comestic

velox do acoustic panels system --woodcrete http://velox-systems.co.uk/products

can you not just move it it away from proposed units ?, If not then accept no rental when you using it-or serious reduction-thats a NO cost option ,just loss of income for a couple of weeks,