scottishjohn

tiger seal is same ,just dif make

they will say get an elctrican who is fit for the job to start with

so if they were half charged you used over 7kw with minimum things turned on how many hours --how much usage per hour? and no heating you say

clean surfaceof container --make up something to attach panels to -then stick that to container with tiger seal If everything clean it will never come away other way is to weight your PV frame down with bags of ballast or big lumps of concrete

what capacity is your battery storage

thats a question for your electrican

someone from tesla will ring me later - https://empowerenergy.co.uk/tesla-powerwall-backupgateway2/

I,ll ask the question

Iam talking to uk

I just talked to tesla and they say thats exactly whats it does --disconnects the gird and allows pv to charge your powerwall and you can use that power in the house

I see tesla make such a device to addo not your powerwall --which gets round this problem and allows your pv to keep on working n March 2019, Tesla released the ‘Backup Gateway 2’ which allows you to use the electricity stored in your Powerwall in the event of a power-cut.

that seems a good idea what it does highlight is if someone was wanting to add PV because their supply is prone to outages ,then std system cannot cope with that once batteries gone down --no power even if sunny EG lots of snow and power lines down for days in winter. so for those better to have a stand by generator in first place

different invertor then if OFF GRID system ? that is a pain --would have thought there should be some sort of overide switch for just this situation

worth a look if in scotland -sale at hillington -loads of building stuff

looking at insurance for my estate and cover for plant on site --any reccomendations

pull out strip of PB fill behind with foam or what ever --refit PB when it still sof-pb should stick to it -trim off foam as required ?

or use fibre addition to slab concrete --no need for steel then ? sure i will be corrected if wrong

to work CORRECTLY lathe and plaster needs a gap up the wall and air flow from under floor into roof space or out at eves

hope thats an old picture cos plenty of damp to rot things showing there--you can see wall is full of damp,by clour of old lime mortar -- I,m guessing it would have no damp course and probably ground floor was beams sat on bits of slate above the earth- so whats been done to make floor damp proof-new slab and DPC?

they relied on lime mortar to allow walls to breath and probably lime wash on inside or lime plaster

looks like its been repointed with cement and not lime assuming ouside is done the same --so any water will sit in wall and not evporate out ideally rake out outside and redo with lime at some point 50mm studs in metal ? I presume you want to keep room sizes as large as possible 140mm of normal studs and insulation will take alot of floor area away --and thats what you would need to get to modern spec then i would build small wood frame or metal studs and use CLOSED cell spray foam --not cheapest --but best R value for thickness and totally water proof and will stick inside framing to outside as well - leave it shy of top of studs --so you have a complete hard skin --then fill with what ever after that or foam backed PB --40mm is minimum I think you will find for water proofing If you do the back of the sarking boards as well you will have it air tight as well often used as the water barrier in basements on the outside in US check it out your self

I take it the plot will not have a garage if acces is so narrow

builders band make your own ? or ready made units like this http://www.gordonproducts.co.uk/products/110mm-soil-pipe-support-brackets/

are you going to do an air leakage test? If so do it now, when it shows up all the leaks and drafts then fit the VCL and it will do 2 jobs if fitted and taped well

maybe me --I can,t see a services room -boiler MVHR,fuse box etc etc