scottishjohn

and maybe bond the steel container to the earthing rod as well?

a pro brickie team should be cleaning it up as they go thats why you employ pros

you will need to be seal the surface VERY well.more than one coat if its at all pourous - -cos the sixa flex will only have permanent bond to that sealing layer sixaflex will come away from dusty surface over time I have had sika come away from bare concrete over a long period so maybe a coat of cheap garage floor paint that will bond to lime floor first . I think i would want some mechanical fixing as well if only where there are door frames or ends of walls

the old saying "the quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten"

what he means is you could use best welsh slate at £100+ per sqM or concrete tiles at £10sqm same goes for all the other choices of kitchens, flooring etc etc also price quoted by builder will include labour a self build like @nod there will be no or very small labour costs apples +oranges

its a debateable point If you buy a house you buy land as well but for most purposes it is always meaning just the total cost to build the house -and not including the plot don,t agree borrowing costs are not part of house build

have you considered suing rads that are designed to run with low temp ASHP ,basically they are much larger or are fan assisted https://les.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/products/heating/domestic/radiator/i-life2-slim

a good word of caution for those not adhering exactly to the approved building conditons . they should consider them selves lucky as it would seem planers are not going to insist on width being altered back to 2/3rds of exsisiting building.just altering the roof

https://www.aol.co.uk/news/2020/01/20/couple-forced-to-tear-down-bungalow-roof-extension-because-its/?ncid=webmail

where will your forever home be? are you employed on farm? If not on this site.then where will the for ever home be whats your budget whats value now what will be the value when its done --is it worth doing it ,if you going to sell again? oak frame sun room sounds like a forever home to me can you build a brand new one on the farm some where and just sell this when its done? very easy to spend alot of money for little increase in value maybe a quick drawing and pre planning meeting with council to see what they will allow ,as it has already been made bigger in the past

my guess is that the solenoid water valve was or is leaking slightly --and normally with door shut with machine turned on the level sensor would operate the pump if it got too high and the water was just draining down out of your plumbing to supply it. my dishwasher does this and every now and then i hear pump running for 5 seconds to empty it- keep saying I,l get round to changing it .LOL

heres your thinset mortar --in a can

at some stage you need to ask the BC man what happens if the original wall does collapse when carrying out this conversion A friend of mine was warned in a barn conversion he was doing that if the wall collapsed -then the PP would be withdrawn and rebuilding it even with same stone in same manner would not work as its a listed building and it would then be classed as a ruin and no rebuilding would be allowed -you could end up with a ruin you can do nothing with not trying to scare you --just something to consider that could be a different scenario of course,as it was a change of use as well as being listed --but worth asking the question beforehand of one of your professional advisors

Its such a major revamp I do not understand your view on how to treat the cottage itself It surely has to be a bare wall rebuild at same time sorting all possible future damp problems looking at piccie you are doing alot of changes to front of cottage to tie the 2 storey extension on to it and digging out right next to probably invisible foundations of old cottage to make new ones for extension --alot of underpinning may be needed to that side of house or very serious retaining walls.--you better make sure they are going to warranty the exsisting cottage integrity after their work looks like 2- 2.6M DROP around alot of the exsisting cottage to then be built back up with big retaining walls around the plot my guess it will be 3m+ in places by time you include founds for new extension hope you got a good SE involved at this stage the cost of doing proper tanking job of cottage will be small in total cost of job

Or maybe leave it and fix EWI and render that ? you can probaly fit EWI your self in the time it would take to remove all the old render?

Is this same house as you are referring to in ASHP thread? have you PP to convert as your drawings above? have you got costings

so I am guessing solid walls and hard plaster direct on to them what is condition of exterior? what type of finish -rendered? are new windows etc in the plan?-- maybe be better to fit EWI -stop any mositure getting in and insulate at same time and no loss of internal space how much reduction in room size will you accept? what is floor?

before anyone could give proper advice we will need to know EXACT wall construction -from outside to inside. when was it built

heres another way maybe if your man made long thin versions of these then you don,t even need a crane and just hand fill the holes? another way --wonder if blocks this size are available in uk

as @Dave says someone has to play at being a "potholer "with a lamp and a screwdriver to poke into beams and things and go look I would want to know if i was selling what the problems are -

think you might sweat alot

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.sf/?ObjectPath=/Shops/10207048/Products/Evoc-Protection-Jacket/SubProducts/Evoc-Protection-Jacket-0003&Currency=GBP&Locale=en_GB&utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=remarketing&utm_term=Evoc Protection Jacket&utm_campaign=Criteo_GB&iccm=CRI_GB how long before we have to wear one of these in case we fall off the scaffolding .LOL

so don,t have a day off till it stops one slippy bit and you break something will be a much bigger delay Its lke me got loads of trees to cut --but not in the wet too dangerous -and it is january -- its going to be dry tomorrow AND sunday and good most of next week

I suppose the next obvious question is why no one has made accurate big std type concrete blocks before to do this or even thermalite then just use thinset

we are all waiting to see the final range of blocks and if they can work from a plan and supply a jigsaw .drawing for assembly 200mm blocks would be best if possible. still not sure pricing will work out --but hopeful just the thing for Australia with a concrete roof as well