scottishjohn

If you were closer you could borrow my big one takes 600mm tiles-with a stand as well#don,t think you want to travle this far twice?

definatley reccomned them -for we people that don,t do it as a job ,especially when doing large format tiles.

just blank off all names and tracable details of contreactor --then there are plenty people here who will tell you if its a sensible quote--

Hi, i,m below you ins/w scotland

or just use stick on tanking as for basement- and as used in some sips roof systems,probably by the time you covered it in insulation just a building wrap would be fine

I certainly do not think that if built correctly and braced ,if poly type ,that there is any great risk for blow outs or collapse my interest in these lego blocks has been more in the way of thinking is there another way as for stability --use thin set mortar between them -then they are bonded IF it worked out cheaper to use blocks then concrete a ring beam on top for to tie it all together floors -just fix wall plate to blockwork to sit joists onto using 300mm blocks makes cutting them to fit realistic possiblity , but of course you would work it out as design stage to limit the number of cuts door +window holes --steel liners as you have said what SE +BC would make of it is another thing

thiis where my karcher drain clearing hose would be handy 2 jets point forward and 4 backwards to drive it downn the pipe very worth while addition to pressure washer for turd boring etc I have bad pipe from my garden through next doors garden to main drain chamber -- he had a tree planted over the drain and suspect roots have got into to it so once every year or 2 iget a back up --this always clears it in 5mins

I am saying that is what happens with commercial solar farms --they buy an option basically --which then means if that is all the capacity the local sub station can handle ,then noone else can use it If it were me ,yes i would bank it --it maybe not a problem now ,but if every body starts doing it --then I believe the DNO will start rationing how generation they allow for private dwellings as well. I have no hard facts to back this up only what i have been told regarding commercial solar farms lots of good sites --but it is spare capacity in the grid which is limiting more being built incertain parts of the country

that was last year and he got answers and maybe the wheel is due for updating . whats current price sqm finshed for blocks and laying etc? you can hire a telehandler for a week for half the price of a brickie remind me what did you built your house from --not bricks .LOL

outside would befirst thought -then battons and service plus some more on inside you would not need a team just a telehandler . It oculd be cost for delivery might be limiting factor Iknow big 1.6x65 x65 blocks --you only get 27 on an artic becasue of weight and for me I have been quoted £700-£800 per delivery -due to distance . so would be 54+ if only 300m thick

I f that is so then cast a concrete ring beam on top of wall before roof -sorted

so if uneven bottoms cause them not to be vertical --then surely just mortar as bricks -so they stuck and level.-bricks don,t have locating pegs-so martar around pegs it should be fine . probaly at the weight thses are then only one row per day -so you don,t squish the mortar out plenty of stone buildings in the past built that way main problem i see is openings --and suitable steel liners and lintels will sort that - link to company please

as more people try to increase the export potential there will be a maximum your line can take --so if you go for 4kw now ,there maybe no spare capacity later so do it now . It is these limits that are stopping a lot of commercial solar farms So it is reasonable to assume there will be a maximum for private generation on lines as well-- reserve it now when limit of excsisting line is reached --eg transformer at sub station ,then if you want to breach that limit you have to pay for the upgrade It is these costs that stop new commercial farms

I don,t see why they should ,as there will be sod all side loading not like a retaining wall where there is a big side load and i,m sure650mm thick wall will be quite stable for heights required for house You could of course use thinset mortar between to stick them and make wall water and air tight ones iwas looking at were 1.6mlx.65m high x .65m thick just need steel for door and window frames

spray inside with closed cell foam

this sounds like simplesat way around the problem- just don,t let them out then --or have a 50% discount to deaf people for that period .LOl -If that motor really is a 37kw = 45hp+ motor --then thats alot of air its moving and alot of noise it will be making and I don,t see any way that you going to minimize it --other than moving the unit a long way to its own building away from where it is I have a 7.5kw snail furnce fan for my dyno --and the noise from that is not the motor its the air its moving ---it makes a 60mph wind ,no way to silence that

I see no one has replied or commented on my suggestion of reverse phase soution If you want to prove it works -get your stereo speakers change polarity on one and face speakers towards each other ,then move them closer together and sound will get less right up tight noise sound is virtually elimianted -- waves cancel each other out you just need a micto and amp pick up noise source -then play it back at the sound source in reverse polarity speakers

your lucky our planning dept -will only talk to you on tuesdays and thursdays between 14.00-1600 hours any preplanning advice is charged for --they will not answer emails at all-just pay your £60 for a PPconsultation slot you want to ask more questions --arrange another slot and pay some more money

sips panels +grp covering example https://www.sipsdirect.co.uk/product/144mm-panel/

why torch on felt and not GRP

maybe more time sharpening chain would help I can certainly notice the difference with my oregon cordless saw ,which has built in sharpening stone --by giving it a wee sharpen every now and then I never have to lean on it just does it It was the built in sharpener that attracted me too it If anyone knows how to make it easy to sharpen chains it will be oregon so far run time with all my heavy brush and 6-12+" trees has been about 40mins for dead dry wood -to an hour for live sycamores + ash for a single 6amp battery I got 2 batteries so by the time I have use both along with humping trees off the road Its time for a break

seems well respected architects consdier thermal mass to be a valid term https://acarchitects.biz/thermal-mass/?utm_source=ACA+Newsletter+Subscribers&utm_campaign=9022c136e9-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2017_05_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_896ee59156-9022c136e9-233090945

150mm of pir will be eqvilaent to 300mm of most other types --no need to go any further --just make sure the living area is an air tight box,godd tight fits ,no gaps --job done you want to go another step then foam backed plasterboard to finish you could build it from thick SIPS panels+ cladding on outside ? depending onsize you could uase SIPS for roof as well air tight is as important if not more so than insulation thickness--if you letting the heat out or cold drafts in your peeing into the wind forever 300m pir is OTT

I could make that a dropped kerb in about an hour with sthil saw- -just cut an angle on the kerb stones that are there -- would I bother -- i doubt it

without knowing full spec of what they are doing and what sort of house its hard say anything . depending on what spec of windows and how many don you know what they are going to cost ? send plans to another builder+get quote for windows and doors fitted from a supplier ? what sort of floors and heating system in this turn key package--far too many variables and what is not included in turn key package --landscaping -drive etc ? how many sqm?- do you fully understand what "up to first fix means"-- or what he means by that maybe a little professional help is required to drill into what these quotes actually mean