scottishjohn

thiis where my karcher drain clearing hose would be handy 2 jets point forward and 4 backwards to drive it downn the pipe very worth while addition to pressure washer for turd boring etc I have bad pipe from my garden through next doors garden to main drain chamber -- he had a tree planted over the drain and suspect roots have got into to it so once every year or 2 iget a back up --this always clears it in 5mins

I am saying that is what happens with commercial solar farms --they buy an option basically --which then means if that is all the capacity the local sub station can handle ,then noone else can use it If it were me ,yes i would bank it --it maybe not a problem now ,but if every body starts doing it --then I believe the DNO will start rationing how generation they allow for private dwellings as well. I have no hard facts to back this up only what i have been told regarding commercial solar farms lots of good sites --but it is spare capacity in the grid which is limiting more being built incertain parts of the country

that was last year and he got answers and maybe the wheel is due for updating . whats current price sqm finshed for blocks and laying etc? you can hire a telehandler for a week for half the price of a brickie remind me what did you built your house from --not bricks .LOL

outside would befirst thought -then battons and service plus some more on inside you would not need a team just a telehandler . It oculd be cost for delivery might be limiting factor Iknow big 1.6x65 x65 blocks --you only get 27 on an artic becasue of weight and for me I have been quoted £700-£800 per delivery -due to distance . so would be 54+ if only 300m thick

I f that is so then cast a concrete ring beam on top of wall before roof -sorted

so if uneven bottoms cause them not to be vertical --then surely just mortar as bricks -so they stuck and level.-bricks don,t have locating pegs-so martar around pegs it should be fine . probaly at the weight thses are then only one row per day -so you don,t squish the mortar out plenty of stone buildings in the past built that way main problem i see is openings --and suitable steel liners and lintels will sort that - link to company please

as more people try to increase the export potential there will be a maximum your line can take --so if you go for 4kw now ,there maybe no spare capacity later so do it now . It is these limits that are stopping a lot of commercial solar farms So it is reasonable to assume there will be a maximum for private generation on lines as well-- reserve it now when limit of excsisting line is reached --eg transformer at sub station ,then if you want to breach that limit you have to pay for the upgrade It is these costs that stop new commercial farms

I don,t see why they should ,as there will be sod all side loading not like a retaining wall where there is a big side load and i,m sure650mm thick wall will be quite stable for heights required for house You could of course use thinset mortar between to stick them and make wall water and air tight ones iwas looking at were 1.6mlx.65m high x .65m thick just need steel for door and window frames

spray inside with closed cell foam

this sounds like simplesat way around the problem- just don,t let them out then --or have a 50% discount to deaf people for that period .LOl -If that motor really is a 37kw = 45hp+ motor --then thats alot of air its moving and alot of noise it will be making and I don,t see any way that you going to minimize it --other than moving the unit a long way to its own building away from where it is I have a 7.5kw snail furnce fan for my dyno --and the noise from that is not the motor its the air its moving ---it makes a 60mph wind ,no way to silence that

I see no one has replied or commented on my suggestion of reverse phase soution If you want to prove it works -get your stereo speakers change polarity on one and face speakers towards each other ,then move them closer together and sound will get less right up tight noise sound is virtually elimianted -- waves cancel each other out you just need a micto and amp pick up noise source -then play it back at the sound source in reverse polarity speakers

your lucky our planning dept -will only talk to you on tuesdays and thursdays between 14.00-1600 hours any preplanning advice is charged for --they will not answer emails at all-just pay your £60 for a PPconsultation slot you want to ask more questions --arrange another slot and pay some more money

sips panels +grp covering example https://www.sipsdirect.co.uk/product/144mm-panel/

why torch on felt and not GRP

maybe more time sharpening chain would help I can certainly notice the difference with my oregon cordless saw ,which has built in sharpening stone --by giving it a wee sharpen every now and then I never have to lean on it just does it It was the built in sharpener that attracted me too it If anyone knows how to make it easy to sharpen chains it will be oregon so far run time with all my heavy brush and 6-12+" trees has been about 40mins for dead dry wood -to an hour for live sycamores + ash for a single 6amp battery I got 2 batteries so by the time I have use both along with humping trees off the road Its time for a break

seems well respected architects consdier thermal mass to be a valid term https://acarchitects.biz/thermal-mass/?utm_source=ACA+Newsletter+Subscribers&utm_campaign=9022c136e9-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2017_05_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_896ee59156-9022c136e9-233090945

150mm of pir will be eqvilaent to 300mm of most other types --no need to go any further --just make sure the living area is an air tight box,godd tight fits ,no gaps --job done you want to go another step then foam backed plasterboard to finish you could build it from thick SIPS panels+ cladding on outside ? depending onsize you could uase SIPS for roof as well air tight is as important if not more so than insulation thickness--if you letting the heat out or cold drafts in your peeing into the wind forever 300m pir is OTT

I could make that a dropped kerb in about an hour with sthil saw- -just cut an angle on the kerb stones that are there -- would I bother -- i doubt it

without knowing full spec of what they are doing and what sort of house its hard say anything . depending on what spec of windows and how many don you know what they are going to cost ? send plans to another builder+get quote for windows and doors fitted from a supplier ? what sort of floors and heating system in this turn key package--far too many variables and what is not included in turn key package --landscaping -drive etc ? how many sqm?- do you fully understand what "up to first fix means"-- or what he means by that maybe a little professional help is required to drill into what these quotes actually mean

copper pipe in those areas would seem best solution I know i have mice Ihave seen them running up the pebble dash to get in at roof line . but its only winter when they looking for somewhere warm -summer no problem

what temp is this thermo plastic melting at ? did you scan the old one or just design it on cad?

Is this not really a failure in your planning ? you could do all the goggling before the day of the job to find out the way to proceed with the job in hand then make a plan . I,m the same as you guys --getting old and stiff --so planning is essential and being realistic on what i can do on my own no more clutch jobs for me if i cannot get my transmission jack to lift the g/box out and in with another body at hand to steady things I know i think I,m the greatest at car repairs --but if someone is brining in a car i have not seen before or job i haven,t done on that car --as soon as its booked in I go goggling the car and how to tackle the job --just in case there are bobby traps . and then decide how much of it i will believe and make a plan . the mercruiser out drive on a 27ft day fihing boat i did last month was good example -- just replace the rubber giators --sounds simple -- soon as you goggle that job 30 + ways of doing it come up --this tells me its right bastard of a job to do . 10mins googgling and I find I need special tools to remove things and realign them on rebuilding ----so off to lathe to make them before the boat comes in and fills my workshop. yes its still a bastard job to get at -- but all goes to plan no problem -- hence why marine engineers had quoted him £800 to do - job done -- bill was well under what he had been quoted --so everybody happy " If you fail to plan --you plan to fail"

It basically has ,as no one ever wants an engine or a g/box rebuilt -they will scrap the car ,as we are in a throw away world recyling or refurbishing just does not happen . and will not as long as it is cheaper to throw things away .

and we can blame all this on the education system which has for decades looked down upon manual skilled workers as being a FAILURE--and it is instilled at school that paper certs is the only way forward ,so we now have people who canb,t do diddly if its not on a key board when you need to have a 3 day course to teach someone to use a ladder !! when taking on trainee mechanics i have always found that with 2 weeks you know if they are going to cut it . I suppose now that would be 2 months ,by the time you allow for the hours they stand about looking at mobile phones . last one i had left when itold him he could not use his phone inworks time --just looking for a pay cheque not a trade. that is the biggest brain killer out there -snap crap face box ,etc etc . I also think it was wtrong to make kids stay at school so long If you interest is in a skill ,then you need them young when the enthusuiasm is still there and they will listen . not everyone is suited for acamdemic life as the school system seems to think

yes you are correct I have not seem fermacell done was the big job you mention TF or ICF or block work steel stud work? I suspect TF will suffer more due to shrinkage of frame as the americans say " I will take that under advisement"