scottishjohn

you sure thats not some sort of natural harmless fungus/algae growth --very common up here. look at wall that faces south and then north wall --if its clean on south wall --then its a natural fungus,it don,t like sun -- you didn,t get it on old houses before smokeless zones -needs clean air to grow

now you need to factor in batons,coumter battons? and vapour barrier costs. can you see the underside of roof from your loft --Is it solid sarking or drapped vapour barrier type just a guess its drapped type with no cunter batons -solid sarking boards is a scottish thing ,but better system

just get in there and pull it way from wall head so it can breathe

a whole row of terraced houses built here recently TF and on outside 300mm of polystrene blocks were attached ,then rendered - looked silly when they were building it roofs were made up on ground +tiled ,then lifted up and dropped on top of walls , very strange way to build,but no scaffolding !! but they had cranes on site time will tell if works

so if your house sells --where you going to live,if new house not even started? would your plot seller allow you to take an option on the plot for a fee?--which you loose if you do not complete in the agreed time I know i would and will if i am getting the price i want for a plot

all i would say is just look at the other shops for all sorts of things, that are not there now ,due to internet with no overheads . you can,t have it both ways --local+best price

more thought and goggling required

I agree with what you are saying but that is minimum flow rate on the graphs and if i run accumulator at top of hill then even if lots of things are turned on then it should smooth it out . It is a variable speed pump ,so only runs at speed required to keep pressure up dont, want to get it wrong and end up with sod all flow at top of hill. need more in depth discussions with them i think -- I understand with 400m length and 100m head there will be losses . this is why i keep coming back to --"what flow rate "at 3 bar can you get from a 32mm plas pipe , what is actual internal size on a 32mm plas pipe --it will be smaller than a copper one ----which is always big enough for a normal house with that then it should be possible to make more sense of it all

yep got to have a break tank --then pump station my question revolves around house usage and what would flow be to pump station with 32m pipe @2bar then coupled with amount house normally requires i can decide what size "break tank " i need as a buffer from which the pumps suck I am nbot convinved that what i am beinbg told is correct --they are suggesting 80L of tank size x number of people eg 6 people= 480litre break tank -- that spounds over large if all i am needing is 2m3 per hour at top of hill

yep me too got wrong key I don,t even know where short cut key is .LOL

I get what you are saying ,but usage will not be evenly spread over a day -- and getting this wrong will be expensive I need 9 bar for height +2bar for house pressure +2bar for pipe friction at 400m --so they say so thats 13 bar 195psi already considered accumulator to even it out . all being well I would like to be supplying a couple of holiday chalets as well --they will want acumlators for sure--could end up with 4 showers all running at same time

Hi yes i got that number --I am looking for what supply from normal main would give ,as the pump company is basing their sizing on m2 pr hour, so that there will be no drop in pressure if more than one tap ,shower etc is being used at same time . for 1 house they are suggesting 2m2

Ok ,as per title what is the normal volume of water (m3 per hour) you need to allow for a normal modern house with 4 bedrooms 2 showers bath,dish washer,washing machine etcetc I will need to pump this up 100 m so volume and pressure will make a big difference in KW of pumps required and as it is 400m away then size of power cable makes big difference to costings as well It will be 3 phase ,as that reduces cable size quite a bit or put it another way what is usual flow rate of a 32mm pipe at 2bar i will be using 50 or 63mm pipe from pump station to house

maybe these houses have plenty of drafts to stop any build up of moisture and the dreaded mould. I can say my 700,s Tf is built like that --outer brick skin --draft from top to bottom up the void between outer brick skin and innner wood frame the vapour barrier was fitted directly behind the inner osb sheeting behind the plaster board. wall is brick +gap ,then osb , then tinber frame ,osb again ,then vcl ,then plasterboard. top of wall open to loft with ridge vents. I tried blocking the wall head up --one winter and Osb sheeting on inside of roof on north side of house started to turn black unblocked wall head --all stopped . so yes it can be fine but needs good draft up void between outer skin and Tf osb

LOL

better picture maybe

I can probably sell you some cut granite blocks early next year If you like then easy job to do yourself if you can lay bricks think there will be lots from this house . Kirmabreck House old (4) (1).pdf

If its vertical one with legs --a plant pot

and back all communication up in writing --if you think you going to court and ask for written replies once you go to court written evidence is all that will carry any weight,and if he has insurance fro bad work --the insurance co will settle long before it gets to court, myabe you should ask him that to start with --if he carrys insurance

measure 3 times --mark twice-- expensive mistake if you don,t get all the pipes in right place

plenty of tasteful stone cladding about,don,t hav to be the coronation street bad taste stuff-but it will be more expensive than render --but maybe a feature wall? its your house i see you will have fyffestone bottom anyway looking at piccie i come from that sort of area and cost of it instead of repointing was not that expensive and many of the terraced houses the bricks were getting scabby and faces falling off -- So you can see why it was popular

maybe the blocks were wet onsite before errection --then froze --breaking them up to start with all these type of aero blocks ,must not get wet +frozen or they loose integrity over time

but by the time you count up scaffolding costs and time --maybe a not so bad i would do a deal for the whole roof at beginning -then its up to him how many he breaks

sell them where they are ?buyer removes

I suspect these were built before the requirement for expansion joints in block work . seen plenty of cracks due to that