scottishjohn

have you considered suing rads that are designed to run with low temp ASHP ,basically they are much larger or are fan assisted https://les.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/products/heating/domestic/radiator/i-life2-slim

a good word of caution for those not adhering exactly to the approved building conditons . they should consider them selves lucky as it would seem planers are not going to insist on width being altered back to 2/3rds of exsisiting building.just altering the roof

https://www.aol.co.uk/news/2020/01/20/couple-forced-to-tear-down-bungalow-roof-extension-because-its/?ncid=webmail

where will your forever home be? are you employed on farm? If not on this site.then where will the for ever home be whats your budget whats value now what will be the value when its done --is it worth doing it ,if you going to sell again? oak frame sun room sounds like a forever home to me can you build a brand new one on the farm some where and just sell this when its done? very easy to spend alot of money for little increase in value maybe a quick drawing and pre planning meeting with council to see what they will allow ,as it has already been made bigger in the past

my guess is that the solenoid water valve was or is leaking slightly --and normally with door shut with machine turned on the level sensor would operate the pump if it got too high and the water was just draining down out of your plumbing to supply it. my dishwasher does this and every now and then i hear pump running for 5 seconds to empty it- keep saying I,l get round to changing it .LOL

heres your thinset mortar --in a can

at some stage you need to ask the BC man what happens if the original wall does collapse when carrying out this conversion A friend of mine was warned in a barn conversion he was doing that if the wall collapsed -then the PP would be withdrawn and rebuilding it even with same stone in same manner would not work as its a listed building and it would then be classed as a ruin and no rebuilding would be allowed -you could end up with a ruin you can do nothing with not trying to scare you --just something to consider that could be a different scenario of course,as it was a change of use as well as being listed --but worth asking the question beforehand of one of your professional advisors

Its such a major revamp I do not understand your view on how to treat the cottage itself It surely has to be a bare wall rebuild at same time sorting all possible future damp problems looking at piccie you are doing alot of changes to front of cottage to tie the 2 storey extension on to it and digging out right next to probably invisible foundations of old cottage to make new ones for extension --alot of underpinning may be needed to that side of house or very serious retaining walls.--you better make sure they are going to warranty the exsisting cottage integrity after their work looks like 2- 2.6M DROP around alot of the exsisting cottage to then be built back up with big retaining walls around the plot my guess it will be 3m+ in places by time you include founds for new extension hope you got a good SE involved at this stage the cost of doing proper tanking job of cottage will be small in total cost of job

Or maybe leave it and fix EWI and render that ? you can probaly fit EWI your self in the time it would take to remove all the old render?

Is this same house as you are referring to in ASHP thread? have you PP to convert as your drawings above? have you got costings

so I am guessing solid walls and hard plaster direct on to them what is condition of exterior? what type of finish -rendered? are new windows etc in the plan?-- maybe be better to fit EWI -stop any mositure getting in and insulate at same time and no loss of internal space how much reduction in room size will you accept? what is floor?

before anyone could give proper advice we will need to know EXACT wall construction -from outside to inside. when was it built

heres another way maybe if your man made long thin versions of these then you don,t even need a crane and just hand fill the holes? another way --wonder if blocks this size are available in uk

as @Dave says someone has to play at being a "potholer "with a lamp and a screwdriver to poke into beams and things and go look I would want to know if i was selling what the problems are -

think you might sweat alot

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.sf/?ObjectPath=/Shops/10207048/Products/Evoc-Protection-Jacket/SubProducts/Evoc-Protection-Jacket-0003&Currency=GBP&Locale=en_GB&utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=remarketing&utm_term=Evoc Protection Jacket&utm_campaign=Criteo_GB&iccm=CRI_GB how long before we have to wear one of these in case we fall off the scaffolding .LOL

so don,t have a day off till it stops one slippy bit and you break something will be a much bigger delay Its lke me got loads of trees to cut --but not in the wet too dangerous -and it is january -- its going to be dry tomorrow AND sunday and good most of next week

I suppose the next obvious question is why no one has made accurate big std type concrete blocks before to do this or even thermalite then just use thinset

we are all waiting to see the final range of blocks and if they can work from a plan and supply a jigsaw .drawing for assembly 200mm blocks would be best if possible. still not sure pricing will work out --but hopeful just the thing for Australia with a concrete roof as well

have you looked at thickness of sip panelled houses where there is nothing but render on outside of the them. and the wall vlaues you stone wall is really no vlaue at all look at the ICF houses like the ISOTEX which has only 120mm of concrete inthe wallanbd then insulation --no need for thick heavy walls for insulation vlaues build another house fully sealed inside your stone shell that is the correct way . I am wrestling with same problem on a larger scale and every time I look at it or get professionalk advice the answer comes back the same. the problem is biuilding an airtight and vapour proof shell inside a bulding that is already there as you cannot easily get at the outisde of the new intewrnal walls to apply a properly sealed layer. and every builder or kit suppler or ICF suppplier has said the same you need to tank the walls and let any moisture go back outwards . 30-40mm of closed cell foam and well cleaned wall is simplest way -do it after you build your internal timber frame and have it encompassing the back of the studs and it wil lock it all together as well as making it water and air tight.. often used for barn conversons for this reason or for stable roofs from inside --its is insulation and holds all the old slates in postion --so water proofs roof as well

I,m just wondering how you intend to get this draft up the wall you going to put air bricks in bottom of walls and then leave a gap at head of wall to allow draft to eith go up into your cold roof and out through ridge OR divert the draft out at eves? no air bricks --no air movement ,once you have done modern sealing of internal walls and skirting boards etc just making a void could cause mold orrotting of you timber frame if no draft to move it out and up and make space dry you surely still need a vapour barrier of some sort at the inside of the void to protect the wood frame how ever you do it the old houses that just had studs +lathe plaster were never heated like modern houses ,so condensation was not a problem and yes moisture came into house from the plaster most large houses had cellars so the space between the outside walls and plaster walls got the draft from the cellar which went right up to roof this is why I say seal the outer walls from what ever you doing to inside look at the detail in ANY type of new housebuild there will be a vapour barrier (house wrap) between outside of house and inside and then an other air barrier to stop air leaks

YES the thermal value of a solid wall is next to nothing compared to insulation 3ft of wall =150mm of PIR all that thick walls do is slow down temp change --thats not the same as insulation and a wet wall is even worse - all you can do is isolate it from the livable part of house so you are not pumping heat into the ground or walls at great expense. this is why you put insukation under your conrete slab so cold wet ground does not suck the heat out of your floor

I,m not sure you have understood me you are digging out floor of whole building to fit new UFH concrete floor with insulation under it so here you fit full vapour barrier under insulation which laps up onto wall and is sealed to tanked wall plenty of choices of how to do it --closed cell foam is only one the only way damp can go is outwards ,through your lime mortar walls --they are breathable there will be no damp from floor as the new poured floor with UFH is sealed by membrane from the ground under it- so no damp inside will not have any moisture because you have isolated it from damp with membrane

If the outside of the stone house is pointed with lime mortar,remove cement pointing and any further painting or render is also permeable ,and remove any that is not then sealing inside will make all moisture go outwards so I do not see the worry with internal moisture if you seal walls and floor in one continuos unit .once sealed no more moisture will get in more insulation will only help you heat loss calcs and lower energy requirement I say again "fabric first "

did the installer supply the windows or did you and he only fitted them If he supplied+fitted then he is the man you will take to court If you supplied you will have much harder job as installer and maker will blame each other