scottishjohn

If you don,t like the spray foam solution then just pack it all with insulation and board the underside to make it air tight

when I built my workshop -30.5 x24m the fabricator wanted to just red oxide and we could paint it --that ,ll be right!!! --spend another 2k in getting it painted -better to coat it before erection we went for hot dip Galv -38 years later the frame still looks like new + didn,t have to spend more money painting it and it match,s in with the galv electrical conduits and the galv air lines I have seen painted red oxide beams in buildings and over time the top coat peels bringing red oxide with it--cos no one will spend the days of prep required etc -- plus red oxide is a porous coat anyway + its probably not REAL red oxide anymore-can,t use red lead now the galv company will dip it in hot acid cleaning tank ,then into the hot dip tank going back in time the steel work cost 30K in 1982 +£1500 for transport there and back and hot dip just no decision to make - obvious as for red oxide that will be done by the boy and just lashed on ,as they expect you to then top coat it ,as its only a transport coat -fine if its support beams for inside the house where its dry For me -there is no argument -if buried .got to be galv finally h why is it buried anyway -surely it will be bolted to poured concrete boxs and be above ground?

got any plans with detail how much space under this floor ? Is floor actually in yet ? If not drop joist hangers down and do it all above . might be simpler and cheaper in long run? If not possible you could achieve both dpc and insulation by getting CLOSED cell foam sprayed under floor there after plumber+ other trades have finished quotes I,ve had for this type of insulation vary around £30-40 per sq m would be done in one day by a contractor

fine provided you can secure frame down enough at top -- rawl bolts or it will topple over- pack up base so you can get fridge under it

I hear you --but i would still get definitive advice from planning before buying --maybe thats why its cheap . and also check with regarding sewage etc

down there ? thats the first mistake --cost alot more for property and staff -- unless you going to fund it

not wanting to put a damper on your aspirations --but if you cannot get a mortage -how you going to fund it how much cash do you have , once plot is paid for ? enough to get a TF wind and water tight in one go as @ProDave says where you pick to build will make a huge difference to funds needed. sounds like it will be buying caravan and living on site --that way you save the rental of your present house then build as money is available. that will limit your choices of construction ,as SIPS and TF cannot be left for months unfinished ,or the wood will rot nothing wrong in that -you can build it just as well insulated with blocks or ICF -just it allows you to stop and start -if you have too presuming you do really mean a real self build

you will need to leave a gap so any water ingress through the old wall can evaporate out up wards --so yes you will need a nice draft between old walls and new

this thing is will the french allow you to take out any or all the original features certainly in this country you would not be allowed to remove those nice stone features-- not a chance Is it a listed building ?--suprised if its not i would suggest you ask lots of questions of the planning /building control there before touching anything If you have not bought it yet --then do that first there maybe good reasons why its still a ruin i can say now it would probably be simpler to flatten and rebuild and stone clad it after -rather than working round all the problems there will be

they would not allow a man here to do that ==cos the water course from the farm above him--about 3/4mile up stream was already above polluting the burn to above allowable threshold - and they would not do anything about the farm he had to have a treatment system to able to discharge to the burn which runs about 100yards into the sea . best of it is that his water supply comes from same burn --but from above the farm go figure

I,m with dave on this just use it if you can If you contact sepa and force all your neighbours into spending money to upgrade things by you highlighting whats going on you will not be popular I don,t think you will get away with not registering your septic tank though I am guessing when you talk to planning they will talk to sepa not sure how you find out info without ringing bells at sepa for all using that drain,other than having your own treatment system +soak away

you know the right way is to get a static caravan and just rebuild from new how ever think you would have to do it a bit quicker than the bathroom ,but again planned right it will be easier anyway and if using ICF -durisol or isotex -you can stop and start as much as you like would you get permission to build new founds round the outside of exsisting house -and demolish only when ready ?

basement --then look at ICF construction-simplest way to do a basement in my view and tank it well on outside -dpc under slab could go right up the outside of the basement walls -no damp problems then what ever you put on top of it

totally agree and you all decided i,m totally nuts doing what I, m doing --but hey just go for it - and plan for worst scenario which in my case is put it all up for sale .If the plot is good you will always be able to move it on if age gets the better of you they not making any more land

I,ve been looking at this over the years for the house I am in and on my new project every time every builder say -start from scratch , and you can see why they can quantify every part of it much easier --no bobby traps so yes it doe not surprise me that flatten and rebuild will work out cheaper and better solution in the end pre- planning advice is the way to go in my view Its what I am attempting to do with my ruin- so I can then make proper decisions on what they will allow and then cost it before starting to spend money on lots of plans they won,t like my solution wass to lift the roof build up the walls another 8ft and extend other side of house you can,t see by 3 m then refit modifed roof ,the way house is built I loose 0ver 1m upstairs on each side foot print now of main house not including extension is 11mX6m also considered making it 2 storey over the kitchen /garage -by the time we worked all that out and scafolding tent etc,-it was cheaper just to flatten in next couple of years the pylon you can see is going --new major line is being constructed around the town and this one is being removed now If i get lucky for a change this should work in well when new house is built and lift the value of this one

some success with cleaning out but the cast iron pipe that goes under the road and down the quarry side is full of roots --no suprise so got to get a man with water jetting machine with a fail attachment to cut cut them out he cam up had a look ,then told me his van couldn,t come up my road with water tank full as that was 1.5ton payload +his jeter diesel powered which is installed in his van --too much for the springs -,so he now going to bring a submersible pump to use water for jetter from my channel so he,ll ring me when he is ready to do it.piccies now channel is dug out -

1965 house could be due for a rewire as well--so if you can afford to lose a little room size you could fit insulated plaster board to your walls and rewire at same time --lots of savings doing things in right order or together

first thing is get and energy assessment on the house energy saving trust do it for free and suggest how to improve things then when you have that ,maybe you will decide to upgrade all insulation etc before or when doing your new heating system I.m guessing 1965 it is hard plaster hot plasterboard money spent now to improve insulation and limit heat loss keeps paying for itself forever rather than having to fit a bigger boiler and trying to heat the world you may find then it might alter your choice of heating system and size I was on lpg -changing to ASHP dropped heating bill by £1000 a year so do your homework first do you know what energy cost are now for the property ? if the double glazing is 80,s then it will not be good by modern standards

https://sinofirst.en.made-in-china.com/product/BXfQpRdHXcYy/China-Fixed-on-Ground-Hydraulic-Electric-Scissor-Lift-Table.html quite sure if you hunt you will find ligther duty one and smaller table

what is height it has to lift +load 2m -3m

If it was just for speed then they could have made stud and osb to make panels to do just the same, only cheaper saving cost of insulation and or filled them with mineral wool to give some fire protection and sound deadening would still be cheaper I think

I know they use mgo board sips panels in some parts of the world --cos bugs don,.t eat them like osb and is very rot resistant and that would be fireproof you can even get one side mgo and other in osb

its what lots of builders do -gets insulation up to spec in a thinner wall rembrand builders is just opposite my garage and i see them delivering truck loads of it to TF houses being built around the shire

is that not why you fit fire stops they expand under heat and block off sections which then will self extinguish due to lack of air and cavity will not act like a chimney drawing in air to keep fire going this is where durisol and istoex and velox have an advantage -they don,t burn and no cavity to act like a chimney -no complicated fire stop arrangements either if rendered and hard plastering on inside I just wonder how long before sprinklers systems become required for new builds

in scotland you can get a free assessment of your home for energy effiency and suggestions on how to improve it must same in england energy savings trust?