scottishjohn

I would forget it and move on - as I think it could be classed as a professional fee --its a test --not actual construction - so not relcaimable my arhcitect told me something interesting about new changes to VAT reclaims If you are vat registered --then you pay it and reclaim it -- no need to got HMRC -- If that is correct that should allow alot more things to be claimed t I cannot say this is gospel --but worth some checking out-- some corvid thing to take load off HMRC maybe

I agree -- but no convincing the wife that it will be she opens windows every day even if its below freezing outside -- So I think this is one battle I will avoid

so from you say do we take it that really you have too many large windows and or they really should have a solar radiation blocking coat on them to stop excessive solar gain inside the house? not pointed at you @Ferdinand directly ,but it does seem to be a re-occurring theme of houses over heating I have already been told by SWBO that no mater what sort of MVHR is fitted she will still be opening the windows when ever she wants fresh air . which makes me question for fitting it --and if house does store too much heat it can be balanced by windows being opened and as air quality will not be a problem and at best I probably only have another 20 years or less for independent living --then extra cost and complications of MVHR is maybe not worth it and our intention for design is to have an orangery along the whole front of the house - and a similar thing above it - both will have real roof -- not glass looking out over our view --that,s where we will go to cook in the sun

and with isotex/durisol etc you can stop start if you really have to -- nothing that water will damage we all make our own choices

mine build style is simple - I like a house that is a constant temp and dress to suit it if it gets too hot -- not wear lots of jumpers inside - window open at night for bedroom the idea of lots of insulation round outside of a solid concrete heat sink is a good one for my way of thinking the concrete -thermal mass- slows down any temp change If I want to get cold I can go walking outside in the countryside --having a draught in the house -- no thanks

me too

having studied both very close and looked at samples -but not built with either the main difference between the the 2 would be a finer finish and accurate width dimension on the istoex when compared to durisol durisol you can only be sure to have one side totally flat due to some differences in thickness of blocks , length and height dimensions seem to be accurate though --not a great problem really and the other difference is the concrete core is 120mm on isotex and 150mm on durisol if I remember correctly - so a 25%saving on concrete costs - check yourself in case things have changed

not much of an option there you need to remove that limb for sure pretty sure there are things you can paint on wounds like that to stop infection getting and if you have others branchs as long --time to trim them back so it don,t happen again

maybe if it can be hired reasonable -- but i doubt anyone will be organised enough with the build for that to work think i i will still be using my shrink fit type from uponor - good compromise and tool was only £100 and uses wilwaukee batteries except if you have rodent problem --but again on new house there should be places for them to infest you and chew your pipes

maybe you could use foam glass to both level site up t and give you insulation and drainage https://unitylime.co.uk/shop/insulation/foam-glass/geocell-foam-glass-1m3/

If you feel you are way behind on materials and labour you have paid for -- then now is the time to get it sorted --it will only get worse this pandemic could be a full lock down soon -and if your builder is in trouble then you will be last thing on his mind . he will pay his men at the end of the week --not the beginning before they have even turned up on monday morning ,which is what i think you are saying he is wanting you to do ,if its in arrears then no problem --just make sure it keeps in step

n I, m not going blind --It depends which way you look at the premium test kit on their site one way its listed ==the otherway it is not how much do i trust a testing company that cannot get simple things like this right not a lot time for a snappy email to them

I just looked - even the best test does not test for arsenic and I know a well locally had to have an arsenic filter fitted CORRECTION -I must be going blind --looked again and it there on their most expensive test kit £249 a go

and me tempting to start crowd funding for a hit on the local planning officer .LOL I know it would be over subscribed in a day by all the local builders . and enviromental health is not much better , not as though they had an excess of staff before --and to cut them down to 2 days working is a joke -- we really need a salomonella outbreak to go with the corvid been trying to get my water (house supply)tested for 3 months now - and sepa tell me no -go to council All I get is --"we are too involved with corvid " and labs do not have time so as pubs and eating places are now open again water testing should be working again

If he is doing it as per the book as well as the twin wall -he will need a shed load of pea gravel for sit it in for 95m + maybe spec is for brick inspection chambers and proper man size - no just a rodding hole If its very deep and poor soggy ground maybe he got to hold side of trench up while he fits it ?. maybe rock to peck out in the route to get depth required devil is in the detail for sure --get an itemised quote from your man - scan it with out the heading post it up and let us see

no dont, like them -- as i saw roof that crows had pecked holes in while trying to peck at food they brought up to flat roof to consume - maybe not a common problem -but a worry

is this basically same stuf as they use as a tanking solution for basements . is it hard when set is it crow and seagull peck proof ?

If you were going to lay them all and coat with just resin to waterproof them till later --then T+G must be better- if going down rioute of pre grp each then maybe striaght edges could be easier -any resin in t+g slot would cause problems later maybe a talk with grp roof supplier is your next call

as it was house i was living in it will be a guess but about a day per room even the kids got involved -screwing down the 6mm over ply the question you should be asking is would I do it that way again now no If i had enough space to sliding widows and doors etc _i would use a layover system and shorten doors etc would be quicker and insulation is built into the boards on some systems but next time i get involved with UFH it will be a new build not a refurbishment

or just route that floor later this is what i did 20 +years ago --no pre routed board existed then 1/2" route and very good extraction -the trend system is first class and you will probably use 2 or 3 router bits or more if you don,t move screws ro miss your tracks ,before you start-guess how I know .LOL,only my floor was nailed then --what a bitch made up a template to go round corners at each end of run my channel was 30mm wide and 10mm deep as it was a triple pipe system - --modern type will be deeper but narrower i finish off by glueing and screwing 6mm ply on top of flooring to put back the strength

I will be very surprised if building control accept anything but tanking and french drains- this is why you need a design - what you want and and what BC will accept could be totally different there are no extra problems using ICF for basements than any other system and you already have said you are wanting keep concrete and steel down -- you will not find the full solution for free no matter how long you study the net pick a system an SE and an architect professional fees are part of the cost with a tricky site you already have all the info you get for free already -by what you have said people who make your chosen system must be the ones to be at front of your design process --they will know cheapest way to build what you want I think an architect who does not know system will cost you money and delays If site is really tricky then you may need to spend some money on ground survey -to see if it will take what you want to do if its soggy --maybe it will have to a different system all together or spend large amount of very deep foundations sounds like you come to the end of the guessing game road and now need to spend on ground surveys and professionals then maybe you can decide what system you will use to build your house -- have you bought the plot yet?

half right -- if the grp behind gel coat was resin rich -then there would be no place for water to be and therefore no osmosis --or what ever you want to name it ,but I understand why its not resin rich it makes it brittle, heavy and costs too much I am familiar with epxoies having built an aircraft from it- a europa - blue foam wing cores sheathed in bidirectional cloth and using west expoxy system - all expoxy systems are resin rich so it does not occur same as pre-preg grp + kevlar -- its always see through --no air pockets , cut out the bits stick them together in poly bag on the mould and evacuate it and autoclave it

now you just made it non standard mentioning retaining walls,etc so yes you will need an SE --but surely best to use the design the maker of your chosen ICF system suggests

thats why i say a coat of pure resin to start with --there is no absorption possible in pure resin ,that happens when fibre is added and its not resin rich --eg see through - not see through and there is space for water-as you well know - so my proposed first layer of resin seals everything in one simple quick job -that can then wait for better weather to add next grp layers that,s how osmosis happens - water gets in the fibre layers that are not fully wetted through and does not want to come out without lots of heat and ventilation

if the boards are stored in the damp ,then it will be the same how ever you do it ,even if you have a tent - proper treated roofing boards should be reasonably water proof as they come , low temps - if dry just means more catalyst and or dif resin