scottishjohn

so basically the full width of the brick ?-- or close enough no wonder its leaking through the wall-and no wonder the mortar has lost grip on it sounds like you could lift that wall right off it do you know is that flashing on top of brick work or a load bearing beam which the wall was then built on ? do you know what the flashing is made from? Is it a GRP right angled section -cos mortar will never stick to that Is it a timber framed house with outer leaf of brick?

no doubt if where the rubber roof goes into the mortar had been at angle pointing upwards then the lack of adhesion of the mortar to the blue bit would not be a problem and any water would run outwards and not inwards MY choice would be another flashing set into brickwork as they have done for 1000years lead will bond with mortar where as that blue stuff looks very slippy --eg no bond racking out the mortar and sealer could work --but for how long -would need to non hardening stuff I think just my thoughts

insulated with air as well

I am waitng contact still from the concrete canvas local agent --which still could be an alternative depending on cost make up plywood box --screw the concrete canvas to it fix in 300mm pipe --wrap that with the concrete canvas --then just wet it all and you got a concrete box https://www.concretecanvas.com/concretecanvas they even supply inflatable shelters for miliatary -which you just it over --wet it and you got a semi permanent structure have a look https://www.concretecanvas.com/cc-shelters

yes isaw them - but at only 250mm long and only 900mmdia and my one is 1000mmx1000mm long --it woud work out more expnsive to get same length

yes Iwent looking for them inlocal bulders ,thinking the same -but no luck

post it up if you find anything

we don,t have those sort of places in the countryside glasgow is 90miles carisle is the same ibc tank is £50-£60 +£50 carriage -ibc tank is too flimsey to attach a 300mm twin wall too so would have to cast into the concrete-then remove the the IBC or at least cut a hole to match I have looked for other solutions and 2 sewer rings looks easiest and cheapest - I will just drill a ring of holes and knock it in for the big pipe then fill in around it once all in place . maybe can rent a 300mm core drill bit --will check

I will take some next time i,m up there before any new hydraulic engineering takes place and then after

not as expensive as ithought 1050x1000mm £149+vat each delivered so that seems like an inspired call by @Russell griffiths good man dig a hole drop them in and add some concrete to the bottom -job nearly done make a 300mm+hole in the side and 2 x50mm ones job done -back fill around

would need to be about 1000mm they will be heavy to manovere --but If ican find 2 or 3 locally and cheap --yes could be deliver from a distance will be the killer

https://www.concretecanvas.com/concretecanvas this might be the answer -- will see what rep has to say on pricing etc .

It don,t need to 100% waterproof as there will be a constant flow and at this time there is no tank just a pile of rocks sending the water towards the old stone culvert there will be no great pressure as the water depth will be only about 2ft before it can run away down a 300mm twin wall drain pipe plus I fear the swellable water bars would swollen before concrete set, the actual water collecting pipes( 50mm)-to a real underground storage tank will be set about 12" from bottom that tank like a rainwater harvesting and will have filter divertor on it to return excess water to the stream lower down whilst removing any large debris and keep a constant flow of fresh water through the tank It is not possible to get concrete jigger to where this is

looking at uk site -its £20-£40 a bag depending on which ione and it looks like you use it neat --so that would be a lot of bags got to look at diverting the water better I think

and use that to mix up with aggregate for the concrete mix? and just deflect any direct water contact with plywood or something ?

looks like it will be exspnsive for such a simple job--will check

I am going build a collection tank on my private suppy as the old stone work culvert from it has collapsed inparts ,so replacing that with 300mm twin wall Ido not knowo exact detals till I dig it up I will try to divert the water ,but suspect diverting all will not be a simple job So what can I use that will set when very wet and or very quickly -- Iunderstand that portland cement sets under water --is that what post mix is made from ? first thing will be the base then i need to construct walls --maybe block work or shuttering and concrete -but again I do not think I will not be able to keep it dry while its setting

i,m not trying to be picky --but thats NOT what it says --so in advent of a problem you know what thier definiton of dry will be --maybe you can get them to confirm that it can be used on a floor with 97RH --I know I seem pedantic --but ive been here before with makers of other products-find out up front is my suggestion and yes iam quite sure most times it will be fine --but it s a supposed cure for a problem you don,t really want in the first place -dig it and fit a proper dpm below and up the brick work maybe time to think about UFH at same time?

I looked atthat tremco site and reading it -there seems lots of loop holes for them to jump through if it don,t work like --a consistant +18c when it curing and surface must be dry and then in another part they say it can be used on a floor with 97% RH iwould never call that dry you need to talk to them

my only worry would be not the expoxy coating in it self -- but if the floor does absorb moixture from underneath then I would worry that the expoxy might become unbonded then it could crack --then moisture could come through If iwere goign to put down expensive hard wood flooring ,then i think Iwould be thinking about ripping it up --putting ina proper vapour barraier and relaying it cos there iwll be no barrier at the edge of floor to brick wall --so again another place for it to crack the epoxy and leak do some more hunting beofre you make a decsion and will one of the expoxy makers warranty it will be a real impervious water barrier ? and this si a quote from thier application spec Remove all surface dust, etc., by industrial vacuum cleaning. Machine scarifying or shot blasting will be necessary for removal of incompatible curing agents, admixtures or other stubborn surface contamination. Shot blasting is also recommended on lightly polished surfaces. so now you got to get a sand blaster!! It could work fine -your call

yes I understand altering the angle will drop summer and increase winter --which for FIT is not good --but maybe worth it to me for winter water as daylight hours are short will do the numbers and see the advantages of a ground mounted array --you can alter it as seasons change

how much do you consdier miimal in percentage terms

one for the guru,s of PV when i used my soalr thermal I noticed that although ideal angle was same as where you live --like mine is 55 but by making it steeper you got less in summer but more in winter this was worth doing to help mitigate over heating of tank in summer and increasing it in spring + autumn+especially winter there was a man in denmark who hung his solar thermal panels vertically on the wall -for that reason is it as noticable difference with solar PV It maybe the nature of PV panels which are flat and not round like the tube s on thermal panels that is is not as critical I ask this because my current thinking is to run solar powered water pumping and in winter of course the suns angle is much less and that is when my lowest flow rate for pump will be --summer its 4 times as much so loosing a bit there is no problem Yes I could fit more panels but that increases everything and thats not needed for most most of the year or point me at a site where I can get the correct info

I presume the quotes were for supply and build and cover in house wrap /ready to fit batons and roofing tiles -or what everv on a prepared base no windows doors etc

just hope the fire brigade don,t come and do a test on them