scottishjohn

not wanting to put a damper on your aspirations --but if you cannot get a mortage -how you going to fund it how much cash do you have , once plot is paid for ? enough to get a TF wind and water tight in one go as @ProDave says where you pick to build will make a huge difference to funds needed. sounds like it will be buying caravan and living on site --that way you save the rental of your present house then build as money is available. that will limit your choices of construction ,as SIPS and TF cannot be left for months unfinished ,or the wood will rot nothing wrong in that -you can build it just as well insulated with blocks or ICF -just it allows you to stop and start -if you have too presuming you do really mean a real self build

you will need to leave a gap so any water ingress through the old wall can evaporate out up wards --so yes you will need a nice draft between old walls and new

this thing is will the french allow you to take out any or all the original features certainly in this country you would not be allowed to remove those nice stone features-- not a chance Is it a listed building ?--suprised if its not i would suggest you ask lots of questions of the planning /building control there before touching anything If you have not bought it yet --then do that first there maybe good reasons why its still a ruin i can say now it would probably be simpler to flatten and rebuild and stone clad it after -rather than working round all the problems there will be

they would not allow a man here to do that ==cos the water course from the farm above him--about 3/4mile up stream was already above polluting the burn to above allowable threshold - and they would not do anything about the farm he had to have a treatment system to able to discharge to the burn which runs about 100yards into the sea . best of it is that his water supply comes from same burn --but from above the farm go figure

I,m with dave on this just use it if you can If you contact sepa and force all your neighbours into spending money to upgrade things by you highlighting whats going on you will not be popular I don,t think you will get away with not registering your septic tank though I am guessing when you talk to planning they will talk to sepa not sure how you find out info without ringing bells at sepa for all using that drain,other than having your own treatment system +soak away

you know the right way is to get a static caravan and just rebuild from new how ever think you would have to do it a bit quicker than the bathroom ,but again planned right it will be easier anyway and if using ICF -durisol or isotex -you can stop and start as much as you like would you get permission to build new founds round the outside of exsisting house -and demolish only when ready ?

basement --then look at ICF construction-simplest way to do a basement in my view and tank it well on outside -dpc under slab could go right up the outside of the basement walls -no damp problems then what ever you put on top of it

totally agree and you all decided i,m totally nuts doing what I, m doing --but hey just go for it - and plan for worst scenario which in my case is put it all up for sale .If the plot is good you will always be able to move it on if age gets the better of you they not making any more land

I,ve been looking at this over the years for the house I am in and on my new project every time every builder say -start from scratch , and you can see why they can quantify every part of it much easier --no bobby traps so yes it doe not surprise me that flatten and rebuild will work out cheaper and better solution in the end pre- planning advice is the way to go in my view Its what I am attempting to do with my ruin- so I can then make proper decisions on what they will allow and then cost it before starting to spend money on lots of plans they won,t like my solution wass to lift the roof build up the walls another 8ft and extend other side of house you can,t see by 3 m then refit modifed roof ,the way house is built I loose 0ver 1m upstairs on each side foot print now of main house not including extension is 11mX6m also considered making it 2 storey over the kitchen /garage -by the time we worked all that out and scafolding tent etc,-it was cheaper just to flatten in next couple of years the pylon you can see is going --new major line is being constructed around the town and this one is being removed now If i get lucky for a change this should work in well when new house is built and lift the value of this one

some success with cleaning out but the cast iron pipe that goes under the road and down the quarry side is full of roots --no suprise so got to get a man with water jetting machine with a fail attachment to cut cut them out he cam up had a look ,then told me his van couldn,t come up my road with water tank full as that was 1.5ton payload +his jeter diesel powered which is installed in his van --too much for the springs -,so he now going to bring a submersible pump to use water for jetter from my channel so he,ll ring me when he is ready to do it.piccies now channel is dug out -

1965 house could be due for a rewire as well--so if you can afford to lose a little room size you could fit insulated plaster board to your walls and rewire at same time --lots of savings doing things in right order or together

first thing is get and energy assessment on the house energy saving trust do it for free and suggest how to improve things then when you have that ,maybe you will decide to upgrade all insulation etc before or when doing your new heating system I.m guessing 1965 it is hard plaster hot plasterboard money spent now to improve insulation and limit heat loss keeps paying for itself forever rather than having to fit a bigger boiler and trying to heat the world you may find then it might alter your choice of heating system and size I was on lpg -changing to ASHP dropped heating bill by £1000 a year so do your homework first do you know what energy cost are now for the property ? if the double glazing is 80,s then it will not be good by modern standards

https://sinofirst.en.made-in-china.com/product/BXfQpRdHXcYy/China-Fixed-on-Ground-Hydraulic-Electric-Scissor-Lift-Table.html quite sure if you hunt you will find ligther duty one and smaller table

what is height it has to lift +load 2m -3m

If it was just for speed then they could have made stud and osb to make panels to do just the same, only cheaper saving cost of insulation and or filled them with mineral wool to give some fire protection and sound deadening would still be cheaper I think

I know they use mgo board sips panels in some parts of the world --cos bugs don,.t eat them like osb and is very rot resistant and that would be fireproof you can even get one side mgo and other in osb

its what lots of builders do -gets insulation up to spec in a thinner wall rembrand builders is just opposite my garage and i see them delivering truck loads of it to TF houses being built around the shire

is that not why you fit fire stops they expand under heat and block off sections which then will self extinguish due to lack of air and cavity will not act like a chimney drawing in air to keep fire going this is where durisol and istoex and velox have an advantage -they don,t burn and no cavity to act like a chimney -no complicated fire stop arrangements either if rendered and hard plastering on inside I just wonder how long before sprinklers systems become required for new builds

in scotland you can get a free assessment of your home for energy effiency and suggestions on how to improve it must same in england energy savings trust?

bottom line is If your house is very well insulated then the amount you will get is diddly squat only works out if you are revamping an old house with bad heat retention and poor insulation the better it is the less they give you - so for your house --no it worked for me cos the man that did the survey was sensible and told me not to upgrade the insulation and windows etc level till after he had done calculation or i would end up with too good a rating got the grant -then upgraded the insulation new house yours will be far too good to get anything

you miss the point -the range which it is allowed to vary is now wider than it used to be they will of course try to keep it correct ,but in outlying areas ther can be big swings and its within the tolerances allowed

I think the voltage 230 or 240 is neither here nor there as mains voltage can go up and down like a yo-yo - and since the regs for supply has changed some years ago the suppliers are allowed much wider range of voltage variation. if voltage drops -relay will still pull in just draw more current to do so but yes bigger amperage relay will give a better margin of service life you see it much clearer when working with low voltage dc --as in cars -where current is much more --engine cooling fan relays --they can spike 60 /80amps on start up although running current could be only 10amps or less --so you fit big 40amp relays to extend contact life -and big cabling to stop heat build up on connections . If i were going to get really tricky then some sort of soft start device so there is no BIG initial current load at start up.If there is such a thing for that type of load try running an electric kettle on a small generator -although 3.5kw output -will trip every time if you plug an electric kettle to it --for the same reason -surge is just too much -thinks its a dead short

looked like TF construction with render looking at pictures EDIT --CHANGED MY MIND LOOKS LIKE SOME OTHER SORT OF PREFAB PANELS SYSTEM - my guess no sprinkler system the fact everyone got out shows the fire alarm system was working --maybe it burnt that bad due to lack of water pressure for the fire fighters? now if they had built it with ISOTEX /DURISOL-the most of it would still be standing just the roof gone one advantage of concrete

greenfell was nothing like a sips construction the main problem with greenfell as I understand it was a man had a fire with dodgy fridge --he opened the window and door of flat to get rid of smoke --which he should not have done --that allowed the fire to get bigger flames to go outside , -made its way to the air gap behind the cladding-then that made a draft like a chimney -- and-the rest you saw - sips panels are sealed units so fire danger is no more than any timber framed house -maybe less cos there will be less gaps in between panels for air ingress to fuel the fire remember the fire triangle -fuel - oxygen -heat remove any one and no fire most foams will self extinguish if not a good source of oxygen -eg outside any amount of it- only true fireproof insulation is mineral wool and you need twice as much of it as a foam product the insulation of any type of product is by the trapping of air in the material

that about what i thought -guys problem is it is next doors garden my sewer line goes through there to join to a common man hole and the roots are coming from a tree in their garden . that will be a nice conversation and who pays the bill and remakes the garden? my view is drains were there before they planted things --so they have caused the problem the fail attachment to cut the roots --i would worry that it would also damage the plastic drain maybe in between way -cut down the tree -kill it -attempt cut roots and wait and see what happens in a year or so