scottishjohn

I used to have a chalet park -but that was when i was in my 20,s --and it seemed very boring and not for me at that time -dealing with customers at 11.00 at night for a bog roll or a bulb ran it for 5 years along with the garage where we are the season is at least 20 weeks - I reckon @£600 a week renta -the you would have them fully paid for in 2 years my price is from what is advertised for the area without all the features and no views to compare 10x7 m sips units my guess 20K each to build and with proper heating system etc I see there being all year round potential --not just summer as with these "hobbit homes and pods so i would expect to get min 30 weeks a year

Ywes that one looks very good ,bit like my 30ft tal retaing wall on my plot -

to be fair that staircase you show is not really dry stone dyking --they are all cut stones Imean lay them inbasket as the farmer does when he builds his walls from random size bits he has cleared from the fields If you got a lot to do then concrete legp blocks will be cheaper -1.6x1.6x.6m about £100 a pop -you will pay that much for a proper gabion or close enough now delivery is the killer onlt 23 on a jugger naught so why not buy a mould and make your own as and when you have time - i have certainly considered it for my job local ready mix will sell me trailer loads of dry mix cheaper than i can buy cement and agregate -then just add water when i get home 1.5cum in one of those big blocks -but maybe you get a smaller mould and hand mix it all ? I could buy htose 1.6x1.6 x .8 units for 70each +carriage +vat carriage tom was going to be £700 per 23 blocks--so that made them £100 a block deliverd my local dykers seem to charge about £100-150 a meter to build walls -if you provide the stone to site-- so @1.6mper block --thats cheaper just a thought

youcan buy cages with a secondary wall to keep the front layer inplace while you fill the middle packing them tightly ,like a dry stone wall is the secret --very time consuming if the rocks are not good shapes my suspicion is sheet netting is too thin for long term localfarmer used some to make a retaining gabion wall --starting to look squint after about 5 or 6 years looks like he did not take alot of time locking the sotnes together in the baskets. a dyker will tell you that the most important part is not the big stones but placing the little bits to make up the gaps between the big ones so it cannot move over time If you asking the basket to do all the support --then thickness of wire will be important making round ones? --think you will need big river pebbles to make that work not sharp cornered ones could be wrong -just my take on it you can see in above pictures what happens if you just dump in loose stuff between big bits --it moves and then basket is not fulland distorts I personally wold never use that type of "rotten rock"--as it just keeps falling apart -but ido understand he was trying to use what he found in garden

this is the first mention of it being on 4 windows the inference of your post was that the problem was just with one window this does indeed suggest you have a damp problem in the cavity my guess caused by poor or wrongly carried out insulation job on the cavity ,which is now holding water time for a professional to insepct

If as most window fitters do --they had sprayed builders foam in the cavity right next to where the window was to be fitted -then that would be your barrier , there is usually agap around the window after its fitted as they usually use 5mm-spacers where the screw fixings for the window are . this leaves a gap they can fill with spray foam -trim and then finish with plaster or trim plate.or caulking outside brickwork whould be no where near the palseter finish -as the plaster finish is applied to inner skin --not the outer one the whole point of the cavity is to be a space ,in your old type house where the moisture from out side can evaporate or move up the wall and out of the wall head where roof starts if you seal the top of the wall then you trap any moisture in there -- your wall looks like hard plaster - If not plaster board so there would be no vapour barrier -so filling cavity can be a bad idea if any moisture gets through your pebble dash or the pointing in the outer brick work and cannot evaporate out of the cavity --eg no air flow I am guessing at that age of house it is a cold loft --which means wall head must not be blocked very easy to happen if someone gets excited stuffing insulation right into the eaves and blocking top of wall cavity all I have just is guessing as your pictures do not show enough

sounds like the cavity insulation is tracking moisture across to inside

yes that would be damp you are seeing -- so you have to go to the outside first and check there -the damp will be coming from the outside does this house have a cavity wall?,should have at that age air bricks clear -can you see the dpc on the outside timber floor or concrete can you get under it? pictures of outside?

find price of toner cartridges --could be as expensive as a new printer -myabe not same make --butas you don,t use it that much I have had expensive ones in the past and now just go for cheap ones that take sensible priced toners - and when its troublesome --strip and clean and if that don,t sort --bin and buy another I am guessing pages per min will not high on your list Igo for muluit task units scan ,print +fax -cheap as chips

using tigerseal will be a good test on if you can remove nitrile glooves in a manner that would keep @Jeremy Harris happy if it was a virus and not black glue get it on your hands or anything its there for a long time if not permanently It would be my go to adhesive for anything virtually stuck car body panels and door skins on windscreens in with it and everything else you can imagine repaired rubber engine mountings +exhaust bobbins if its clean it will stick it if using on glass you need a primer first ,cos glass is so smooth it curesfully at about 3mm per 24hrs --so if its something you need a big thickness on,like a 10mm thick gasket (webber carb mtgs) --then you must give it time to fully cure -

were they cheaper? and if so by how much

the even call bin men watse disposal technicans

"fitter " is an even much more maligned job title when my dad was working at gorton tank --railway engine maker in manchester in the 1920,s the "fitters" were very skilled as the hand scrape/fitted all bearings on steam engines and even the beds on lathes and milling machines etc were hand scraped to alow pockets for oil to sit in to keep beds lubricated then the term mechanic got the same treatment , they were not just "fitters" as the modern meaning of the word is used . when I started in motor trade you were a mechanic --now its a technicain i think fitter /IT nerd would be better descripition for modern motor engineer - not much mechani ing going on or actually repairing or rebuilding of things no one rebuilds an engine or a g/box --you get one from the breakers -lack of skill +tools and cost of labour and bits make it the sensible way to go when you can buy a low mileage engine for £500 -and just the cost of a set of pistons +bearings+gaskets is more than that ,never cost to regrind crank and rebore +hone block .-add another £300 then the labour --no wonder the skill s required for such things is dissappearing in all but the motor sport section of the trade

bottom line is thicker they are cheaper house will be to heat or cool -so don,t skimp now

wait till the ivy is as big asthe trees you show LOL

yes do not compare oregoen power hsarp set -up with the add on sharpeniign stone as @PeterW totally different type the downside of the oregon one is you cannot sharpen it very often before you run out of tetth to sharpen -finefor odd jobs and dead handy being battery-fuel to carry about and no messing about starting --but not for serious tree felling really ,.even though i felled quite a few 24"+ trees with mine i would add perfect for you if you are scared of chainsaws -it will stop electronically before it ever gets chance to kick --then just press trigger again good for a beginner to tree cutting

I bought an oregon elctric one with the slf sharpening set -up - fine for small work and no grit in trees -ivy is a bugger for picking up stone ,and in my case its granite after going through 3 chains --wore them out I opted buy a properr stihl 211 ce chainsaw -- good kit and started with the carbide chain £40 - lasted much longer than normal chain - downside -you need diamond blade to sharpen them so went the other way and bought cheapest chains I could at £7.30 each replace when dull instead of 15 -16 for a good make So they cut great then the scots man in me thought why not sharpen these so 12 files from same place for £10 and i now give them a wee sharpen at home and take 2 with me every day -soon as it dulls -just swop doing it that way it only about 5 strokes per tooth to get back to shazor sharp carry on using dull chain and it will take 20 strokes to sharpen it so back the first question --would i go back to chain saw sharpening gadget NO-just a few rubs every day and it will cut so quick you dont, have to lean on it but as you have found--keep out of the dirt -why cut so low ? If you not going to pull stumps -then get a concrete saw with cardbide blade and use that on stump to take them to the ground --dirt won,t blunt a concrete saw i used that on some roots going across my road in the tarmac

again Iwould sday ask in polland on the internet there ,as they have been using it for 30years + very few users in UK -

rough estimate prices will make nonsense of your project the prices need to be accurate if it is to have any validity maybe you should be emailing velox in poland diect and tell them what you are doing . or indeed and ofthe sduppliers of systems youare putting in your study

ring the agent http://www.velox-systems.co.uk/#2 I would qualify any of the costs you think you have got @sqm price by saying get your design and plans done first -send them to suppliers for them to quote and don,t forget to include bracing hire costs for those that need it

that can be a big problem -who maintains it? -is it written into the sale about up keep and how you can enforce them to pay thier share not something i would consider having been there before and other party just said I can,t afford it -so you need something inthe slae to make them pay if they are not forth coming and is it written that no one can park on it if there is a pinch point -now is the time to sort any possible problems for when you fall out with niehbour ,or if they sell and you get a bad neighbour

your right

I wonder if you offeed a contract to build 1000 sips or some other type of quick build -cheap type of HUF HAUS kit houses --how much they would be what they used to call prefabs after the war there is a company make them in germany using woodcrete panels already poured infafactory ,then just craned onto site+bolted otgether It cannot be outside the wit of man to make economical GOOD prefabhouses in a factory these days plenty of money in the world to fund it ,providing they get a warrantied return --ideal for pension compnay -5% government backed return over 20years soical housing problem +enviromental sorted in one go ?

no problem if the rent is a realistic one ,without being over the top rent should make them self funding ,if not rents are wrong level the idea is fine if done correctly and keeping politics out of it ,which i beleive is reason rents generally for councilhousing has always been too low and cost to build too high

isee no problem in allowing old crofts to be rebuilt if to modern stds --and occupied all year round ---but itinfilling between towns thats the problem Iused to live inmanchester until 1976 Icould drive from stcok[port to blackpool,and this isbefore the motorway network as it is now without usinghheadlamps --thats over 60 miles --thtas too much