scottishjohn

I know you don,t want to hear this but this is why you should have done percolation tests when making your plans , before you built the house and found a solution then for the planning application and the results should be part of the detail that was submitted to planning and BC not having done this --or maybe your architect fabricated a test to get it passed i don,t see them being too happy with you now It was a thing I did when looking at a site --before i even bought it -- did it in november and the results were not good --so i walked away seeing cows in a field next too it up to the knees in mud made me do this -- and the test confirmed I would have problems , but it something your supposed to do on all sites to prove it can work

do you know how thick the clay layer is? maybe you can go through it into a gravel layer?

I hear what you are saying but maybe its the very low angle which is allowing the water to just sit and not run off ,so making it a very wet area most of the time how much gap is between the the roof and the plywood -- when I looked at zinc roofing -- a real air gap and a minimum slope was very important to stop corrosion from what you say there is no gap -so water could just sit there by capillary attraction + never dry out I am guessing that this aluminium roof is a coated one --so maybe also movement has worn through the coatings where fixing touch --and then you loose some of your corrosion protection

there will be one in rainwater harvesting system

is it a heated space in the rom below the flat roof --If so thats not enough insulation and what is theroof made of and what us the surface on flat roof that you wish to walk on

insurance would require it to be done by a sparky I would think and along with a record of test and when they are done

depending on tank size and usage you might not have any excess --most rainwater systems have a top ballcock from the mains for when you run out of rainwater

Idoubt it is actually that much more expensive once you factor in paint +labour and then doing it again later and yes that not the question he asked -- maybe he should have asked that earlier in the build ?

have to ask why use painted wood cladding when you coculd use man made concrete board that looks the same ,but does not rot away or need any protection

is it not just a case of your soakaway tanks are not big enough -- maybe make them into rainwater harvesting and use it for house toilets+washing machine + garden it would also cut down on your water usage bill?

I used the 150mm steel studs to partion my building at front with staggered19mm plank then fireproof Pb -- solid as a rock once you get the PB attached to it and very sound proof -by the time you have the fire curtain hung in the middle back of building was a 9"soild killer block wall to 8ft ,with butresses then same 150mm stud to go to the roof If it was not a car workshop --might have been tempted to do it all in steel studding but also was getting a bit high in the center bought the fancy tool to join them together --not impressed with that --would us wood nogins if doing it again would def consider using it in a house --when did you last see a straight bit of CLS

I agree with all above- the extra efficiency only really works in countries like canada where you have months of -20c which is only time GSHP will have big edge on ASHP the uk is never going to be cold enough long enough to be worth the extra costs and as you are building a very warm house anyway -- heating costs will be small and if you have mains gas -then that is still the cheapest to run and probably to install as well

they used REAL wood and did not sit it on the ground probably large lumps of stone where the structure would hit ground with lots of draft space under it

you mentioned sand as sub soil in one post and now peat --not a combination I have ever heard of peat needs bog to form --sand is free draining very strange

pity my hill faces s/w ==or that could have a been a good usage -- select country jewish cemetry

aty leats yuo have a house Ican,t even get started at this rate i think i should ask planning to include a mausoleum in the grounds --in case i never get it finished +build that first

got test results back ==water is fine however although the lab complies with all required codes I still might have to get the council to do a test -- why ,because I do not have the qualifications to take the samples !! anyway water is fine which what we needed to know for now last email from head of planning was to say that due to covid he can give me no time scale as to when a planning application or site visit can happen my spies tell me it could be next year before they are working normal --and that is measured on a glacial time scale

before ordering make sure your delivery includes damage insurance - as part of delivery cost

delivery from europe would be main cocern on costs

post up costs for products and quoted delivery costs--not a guess

loking at that tank ,but twin coil -for solar and ASHP - set ASHP to 35c and that would allow solar to work most days of the year ,probably? maybe a thought - separate tank for DHW?

If that your idea then look at VELOX ICF -- that would be easiest to do that with

render both sides?- ask the maker of your chosen system

which ICF system ? poly type --then maybe not --but this is just a feeling woodcrete -you going to get a good bond for the render on it and easy to fix things to it just my feelings nothing to back it up could be talking rubbish

As I said at the beginning If it was me I would rake out and repoint all of it --not just where you can see holes lets suppose that these holes you can see and others you cannot see yet could hold water and then freeze and expand or maybe it is leaking through the outer skin to void how long before it causes a rot problem on TF inside No one can say so If it were my house I would sort it sooner rather than later we can gather from quality of the job that maybe other things inside this ,like the house wrap may have been fitted to same std as the brick laying