scottishjohn

post up costs for products and quoted delivery costs--not a guess

loking at that tank ,but twin coil -for solar and ASHP - set ASHP to 35c and that would allow solar to work most days of the year ,probably? maybe a thought - separate tank for DHW?

If that your idea then look at VELOX ICF -- that would be easiest to do that with

render both sides?- ask the maker of your chosen system

which ICF system ? poly type --then maybe not --but this is just a feeling woodcrete -you going to get a good bond for the render on it and easy to fix things to it just my feelings nothing to back it up could be talking rubbish

As I said at the beginning If it was me I would rake out and repoint all of it --not just where you can see holes lets suppose that these holes you can see and others you cannot see yet could hold water and then freeze and expand or maybe it is leaking through the outer skin to void how long before it causes a rot problem on TF inside No one can say so If it were my house I would sort it sooner rather than later we can gather from quality of the job that maybe other things inside this ,like the house wrap may have been fitted to same std as the brick laying

I would forget it and move on - as I think it could be classed as a professional fee --its a test --not actual construction - so not relcaimable my arhcitect told me something interesting about new changes to VAT reclaims If you are vat registered --then you pay it and reclaim it -- no need to got HMRC -- If that is correct that should allow alot more things to be claimed t I cannot say this is gospel --but worth some checking out-- some corvid thing to take load off HMRC maybe

I agree -- but no convincing the wife that it will be she opens windows every day even if its below freezing outside -- So I think this is one battle I will avoid

so from you say do we take it that really you have too many large windows and or they really should have a solar radiation blocking coat on them to stop excessive solar gain inside the house? not pointed at you @Ferdinand directly ,but it does seem to be a re-occurring theme of houses over heating I have already been told by SWBO that no mater what sort of MVHR is fitted she will still be opening the windows when ever she wants fresh air . which makes me question for fitting it --and if house does store too much heat it can be balanced by windows being opened and as air quality will not be a problem and at best I probably only have another 20 years or less for independent living --then extra cost and complications of MVHR is maybe not worth it and our intention for design is to have an orangery along the whole front of the house - and a similar thing above it - both will have real roof -- not glass looking out over our view --that,s where we will go to cook in the sun

and with isotex/durisol etc you can stop start if you really have to -- nothing that water will damage we all make our own choices

mine build style is simple - I like a house that is a constant temp and dress to suit it if it gets too hot -- not wear lots of jumpers inside - window open at night for bedroom the idea of lots of insulation round outside of a solid concrete heat sink is a good one for my way of thinking the concrete -thermal mass- slows down any temp change If I want to get cold I can go walking outside in the countryside --having a draught in the house -- no thanks

me too

having studied both very close and looked at samples -but not built with either the main difference between the the 2 would be a finer finish and accurate width dimension on the istoex when compared to durisol durisol you can only be sure to have one side totally flat due to some differences in thickness of blocks , length and height dimensions seem to be accurate though --not a great problem really and the other difference is the concrete core is 120mm on isotex and 150mm on durisol if I remember correctly - so a 25%saving on concrete costs - check yourself in case things have changed

not much of an option there you need to remove that limb for sure pretty sure there are things you can paint on wounds like that to stop infection getting and if you have others branchs as long --time to trim them back so it don,t happen again

maybe if it can be hired reasonable -- but i doubt anyone will be organised enough with the build for that to work think i i will still be using my shrink fit type from uponor - good compromise and tool was only £100 and uses wilwaukee batteries except if you have rodent problem --but again on new house there should be places for them to infest you and chew your pipes

maybe you could use foam glass to both level site up t and give you insulation and drainage https://unitylime.co.uk/shop/insulation/foam-glass/geocell-foam-glass-1m3/

If you feel you are way behind on materials and labour you have paid for -- then now is the time to get it sorted --it will only get worse this pandemic could be a full lock down soon -and if your builder is in trouble then you will be last thing on his mind . he will pay his men at the end of the week --not the beginning before they have even turned up on monday morning ,which is what i think you are saying he is wanting you to do ,if its in arrears then no problem --just make sure it keeps in step

n I, m not going blind --It depends which way you look at the premium test kit on their site one way its listed ==the otherway it is not how much do i trust a testing company that cannot get simple things like this right not a lot time for a snappy email to them

I just looked - even the best test does not test for arsenic and I know a well locally had to have an arsenic filter fitted CORRECTION -I must be going blind --looked again and it there on their most expensive test kit £249 a go

and me tempting to start crowd funding for a hit on the local planning officer .LOL I know it would be over subscribed in a day by all the local builders . and enviromental health is not much better , not as though they had an excess of staff before --and to cut them down to 2 days working is a joke -- we really need a salomonella outbreak to go with the corvid been trying to get my water (house supply)tested for 3 months now - and sepa tell me no -go to council All I get is --"we are too involved with corvid " and labs do not have time so as pubs and eating places are now open again water testing should be working again

If he is doing it as per the book as well as the twin wall -he will need a shed load of pea gravel for sit it in for 95m + maybe spec is for brick inspection chambers and proper man size - no just a rodding hole If its very deep and poor soggy ground maybe he got to hold side of trench up while he fits it ?. maybe rock to peck out in the route to get depth required devil is in the detail for sure --get an itemised quote from your man - scan it with out the heading post it up and let us see

no dont, like them -- as i saw roof that crows had pecked holes in while trying to peck at food they brought up to flat roof to consume - maybe not a common problem -but a worry

is this basically same stuf as they use as a tanking solution for basements . is it hard when set is it crow and seagull peck proof ?

If you were going to lay them all and coat with just resin to waterproof them till later --then T+G must be better- if going down rioute of pre grp each then maybe striaght edges could be easier -any resin in t+g slot would cause problems later maybe a talk with grp roof supplier is your next call

as it was house i was living in it will be a guess but about a day per room even the kids got involved -screwing down the 6mm over ply the question you should be asking is would I do it that way again now no If i had enough space to sliding widows and doors etc _i would use a layover system and shorten doors etc would be quicker and insulation is built into the boards on some systems but next time i get involved with UFH it will be a new build not a refurbishment