scottishjohn

I found a man with a set and have been cleaning it out all day ,but it was successful eventually + his set returned

other than what comes out of the walls of the quarry below water level

SODS LAW my culvert that runs under the road is 2 part a 6 "cast iron pipe down the middle ,that is placed inside a larger stone duct Ihave found that the iron pipe is full of sand which has gathered up over the lats 60-100years but its 15m long --and I only have one set of drain rods -*8m --looking all round friends to find one with a set to me thats the sort of thing any MAN should have -- but i forgot they all borrow mine .and i,m not really wanting to buy another set . to use just this one time .If i had power i could use my karcher jetting attachment -- that can drill through crap --so it would certainly get sand moving . even a simple job gets complicated when at a distance. such is life

when i can get the water tested and if it comes back treatable --then yes it is the cheapest and simplest answer seems this - https://www.freeflush.co.uk/collections/drinking-water-filters/products/hydroinfinity-integrated-drinking-water-treatment-console and a storage tank plumbed so it is flushed continually by stream the water course has to be repaired anyway no matter what. I splashed out on a water diviner today to see what the chances are for a well and he found a good source . so it will now come down to numbers once I get the water test enviromental health are not doing that at this time due to ---you guessed it --corvid 19 Its hard to get exact figures -so many variables well --which I will try to itemise better -depending on depth could be similar to bringing mains up from road - but that depends of SW price to give me supply the quarry site could just pump it from the lake -dependant on water test -but as there are already quite a few wells on same hillside i think the water test will come back good or from mains The Glebe is the same -difference is they won,t need a BIG pump station due to not being as high up I have a tame dyker --but the retaining wall is nearly 1m thick he is making unconvicing noises at this time . maybe I make the wall lower and make a bigger slant on the banking the water pipe is in , which goes to the channel I think the channel will become a pond eventually anyway

picces as requested of current set up comes in through the wall goes underground to stone culvert which as been connected in past to those those badly aligned concrete pipe ,then down a stone chimney in the damaged retaining wall then across the courtyard in a a deep channel then under road and down the quarry side to the lake

taking what @PeterW is saying as correct , and its sounds right maybe you should put some more rubber roofing on the legs of the decking boards so they cannot over time damage the roof by movement of the decking or another layer laid loose over the first one under where decking is I seriously doubt rubber roofing was ever meant to be a surface to take lots of traffic or physical abrasion to repeat from another of my posts :- a local hotel had a roof covering like this next to the beer garden and crows were bringing food up from the tables to the roof and pecking at it -- to a point where they punctured it if crows can puncture it then things on it could also cause punctures the roof was redone with GRP

so basically the full width of the brick ?-- or close enough no wonder its leaking through the wall-and no wonder the mortar has lost grip on it sounds like you could lift that wall right off it do you know is that flashing on top of brick work or a load bearing beam which the wall was then built on ? do you know what the flashing is made from? Is it a GRP right angled section -cos mortar will never stick to that Is it a timber framed house with outer leaf of brick?

no doubt if where the rubber roof goes into the mortar had been at angle pointing upwards then the lack of adhesion of the mortar to the blue bit would not be a problem and any water would run outwards and not inwards MY choice would be another flashing set into brickwork as they have done for 1000years lead will bond with mortar where as that blue stuff looks very slippy --eg no bond racking out the mortar and sealer could work --but for how long -would need to non hardening stuff I think just my thoughts

insulated with air as well

I am waitng contact still from the concrete canvas local agent --which still could be an alternative depending on cost make up plywood box --screw the concrete canvas to it fix in 300mm pipe --wrap that with the concrete canvas --then just wet it all and you got a concrete box https://www.concretecanvas.com/concretecanvas they even supply inflatable shelters for miliatary -which you just it over --wet it and you got a semi permanent structure have a look https://www.concretecanvas.com/cc-shelters

yes isaw them - but at only 250mm long and only 900mmdia and my one is 1000mmx1000mm long --it woud work out more expnsive to get same length

yes Iwent looking for them inlocal bulders ,thinking the same -but no luck

post it up if you find anything

we don,t have those sort of places in the countryside glasgow is 90miles carisle is the same ibc tank is £50-£60 +£50 carriage -ibc tank is too flimsey to attach a 300mm twin wall too so would have to cast into the concrete-then remove the the IBC or at least cut a hole to match I have looked for other solutions and 2 sewer rings looks easiest and cheapest - I will just drill a ring of holes and knock it in for the big pipe then fill in around it once all in place . maybe can rent a 300mm core drill bit --will check

I will take some next time i,m up there before any new hydraulic engineering takes place and then after

not as expensive as ithought 1050x1000mm £149+vat each delivered so that seems like an inspired call by @Russell griffiths good man dig a hole drop them in and add some concrete to the bottom -job nearly done make a 300mm+hole in the side and 2 x50mm ones job done -back fill around

would need to be about 1000mm they will be heavy to manovere --but If ican find 2 or 3 locally and cheap --yes could be deliver from a distance will be the killer

https://www.concretecanvas.com/concretecanvas this might be the answer -- will see what rep has to say on pricing etc .

It don,t need to 100% waterproof as there will be a constant flow and at this time there is no tank just a pile of rocks sending the water towards the old stone culvert there will be no great pressure as the water depth will be only about 2ft before it can run away down a 300mm twin wall drain pipe plus I fear the swellable water bars would swollen before concrete set, the actual water collecting pipes( 50mm)-to a real underground storage tank will be set about 12" from bottom that tank like a rainwater harvesting and will have filter divertor on it to return excess water to the stream lower down whilst removing any large debris and keep a constant flow of fresh water through the tank It is not possible to get concrete jigger to where this is

looking at uk site -its £20-£40 a bag depending on which ione and it looks like you use it neat --so that would be a lot of bags got to look at diverting the water better I think

and use that to mix up with aggregate for the concrete mix? and just deflect any direct water contact with plywood or something ?

looks like it will be exspnsive for such a simple job--will check

I am going build a collection tank on my private suppy as the old stone work culvert from it has collapsed inparts ,so replacing that with 300mm twin wall Ido not knowo exact detals till I dig it up I will try to divert the water ,but suspect diverting all will not be a simple job So what can I use that will set when very wet and or very quickly -- Iunderstand that portland cement sets under water --is that what post mix is made from ? first thing will be the base then i need to construct walls --maybe block work or shuttering and concrete -but again I do not think I will not be able to keep it dry while its setting

i,m not trying to be picky --but thats NOT what it says --so in advent of a problem you know what thier definiton of dry will be --maybe you can get them to confirm that it can be used on a floor with 97RH --I know I seem pedantic --but ive been here before with makers of other products-find out up front is my suggestion and yes iam quite sure most times it will be fine --but it s a supposed cure for a problem you don,t really want in the first place -dig it and fit a proper dpm below and up the brick work maybe time to think about UFH at same time?

I looked atthat tremco site and reading it -there seems lots of loop holes for them to jump through if it don,t work like --a consistant +18c when it curing and surface must be dry and then in another part they say it can be used on a floor with 97% RH iwould never call that dry you need to talk to them