scottishjohn

what make of wood crete -durisol? as we know that durisol width spec is variable to say the least, up to +/-5mm so in worst case up to 10mm and that could make more of a problem to simply brace with screwing bits of osb/ply to joints and are suspect I suspect the quality of the builder has more to do with the quality of the walls than the product the way with durisol is to decide which side is going to be flat -and build that way --you cannot get perfectly flat walls both sides with durisol - me i would go for flat on outside you are right I have not actually built with either -- but common sense tells me a strong form must be a good starting point and the ability to srcew things to it anywhere you like is also a big plus and tha ability if you wish to render or plaster direct to it and if cladding no worries where to get fixings or where to attach brick ties if having outerskin of brick or stone . I have never said NO bracing -- but its minor in comparison to poly as its only needed at openings+ possibly corners - If you getting your bracing for free with poly-- then ok , still much more chance of blow outs with poly as it is not as mechanically strong as wood crete If it has problem keeping straight then I would be talking to the block supplier -thats whole point of woodcrete blocks that they dry stack and make good walls quickly you got picces of how much bracing they needed? poly type are more critical on concrete mix -too sloppy and lots of hyrdaulic pressure on lower blocks to cause blow outs. the quantity of concrete should be the same for both durisol +Isotex -- velox is thicker if not then the calcs on one or other is wrong ,as they both use 120mm core and not 150mm as most poly types + velox do I do not think the other poly types are accurate either as they all use 150mm core -- so why the difference --that table is a estimate in my view - a starting point as if buildings are all same size then differenec in concrete should not be double on some systems if it was derived from plans to get the quote only rebar needed for woodcrete in uk is some around window ,doors and any other opening - where you are making re-enforced lintels - we are not in an earthquake region thats why I say your block supplier should be doing those calcs --not an SE not used to working with ICF ,as they will always over spec - again its common sense that a one piece concrete wall will be stronger than one made from bricks/blocks with very low strength mortar bonding them together your block supplier should be doing all that work when you send him the plans - both systems can do a good job - but need to handled differently all the way through the design and build process is the conclusion I have arrived at

looks small and expensive to me --as you are not even half done at that price--i would price all your other parts required before you make final decision can only used all year round if you fill it all with insulation and how much the windows going to coat and door etc etc

It would work -not sure if it would be cheaper he,s not talking about adding EXTRA insulation == but it would be the only insulation . so would need to be very thick . there are some houses here that are built that way on a TF with all insulation on outside then rendered on a mesh backing system --but that insulation is std EPS and 9" thick blocks ( at a guess) when i passed them when they were being built .. I would go for multiple layers staggered so no direct passage and possible air leakage from outside to block work certainly easy to fit on outside with no studs in the way -- will be virtually no less waste which you get on normal infill of studs the advantage of woodcrete is it needs very minor bracing compared to poly types and simple stacking and only rebar around windows and door openings --no need for more in UK as we do not have earthquakes and Isotex is thinnest concrete core of them all at 120mm , easy enough to work out costs comparing it to normal type with insulation pre packed in block If you hunt u-tube you will find they do that with durisol in canada to get passiv house in very cold areas ,but std durisol block has insulation in it as well so yes its sort of been done already

your quotes are not comparable on insulation values of walls. also suspect your concrete volumes are wrong at a quick glance either that or wall dimensions are different on some quotes

why would you want to?? please tell me why you think this is a good idea over using pre insulated woodcrete blocks

even cheaper type --http://www.supersips.uk.com/structural-insulated-panels-prices.htm

would it really be that expensive to build a small office like from SIPS panels ,floor ,walls +roof all insulation done just window and a door to work into it if one slope flat roof dead easy to sue sips an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SIPs-Panel-3-0m-x-1-2m-Structural-Insulated-Panel-Garden-offices-Studios-Garage/184528578995?hash=item2af6c2a9b3:g:nugAAOSwH2Ja3xX3 you can get MGO board types that have mgo on outside and osb on inside --you could just quick render outside or simple corrugated tin sheathing for either type not hard if you going to build a house --a week end job-if not too big

main problem is they will require you to have plant insurance-that could be another £300 OR MORE? -so if only a day maybe be better to hire digger +an operator who has insurance etc

trying to get a design and basic construction that we like and planning will accept take house down to one level -repair all walls replace oak lintels with concrete ones etc parge coat it with waterproof cement then build TF inside +use closed cell foam to finish off the water proofing and air tight seal and insulation and stick TF to granite walls the calculation i have been sent by the foam manufacturer is 100mm closed cell -in two separate layers allowing first to skin then hit with another 50mm + 22mm insulated PB + service void will give walls at 0.25value and with only a small reduction in room size 150mm per wall--maybe 50m of closed cell and then other insulation - but keeping secondary wall to 150mm ok the floor --torn between block and beam -to get easy services and solid concrete Is there much difference in costings ? yes it will be UFH same goes for new roof -which will be a flat one to sit a Tf/sips house on partially second storey and give large balcony areas all round thinking maybe of 6m x10mm and lower level will be 26m by 8m comments and suggestions please need to find a builder to quote for removal of top layer and putting a lid on it my health has gone backwards somewhat --so have to accept i canot do as much as I would like with stone work -- too heavy for me I have thought about flatten and build in ISOTEX -but then I,m sure planning would require it to be cladded in granite and same old type of small windows in bottom layer I do not think i will get away with a total modern build on this site and I can find no one that would want the old granite -so no money back from that --Ihad hoped to find someone who would flatten + remove for all the stone work ballpark from architect to rebuild from scratch in TF what is already there is not on -£850 is his first guess --so that will not it in real world I have to think and I do not need over 400sqm+ then there is still the stable block to do later --maybe

and because it is stuck to the wood of the roof there is no cold surface anywhere on underside so no condensation

I would remove what you have done so far --let it dry out and get a froth pak -closed cell kit --job done - and if you want to then sheet the joists --no problem you can rfit your solid insulation after if you like and get even better insulation I hope your tumble dryer has a direct connection to the out side world or you will be making another problem the thought of making numerous holes in your roof membrane to vent the void is a bad idea and maybe making more areas that could leak https://www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/froth-pak-600-spray-foam-kit.html

pefect job for spray closed cell foam but I understand where he is now -and if like your picture he cannot get a draft though very easily to dry up any moisture - so could be just trapping in moisture to rot roof above If this space is going to be heated that makes it worse

would vapour barrier not be better above the insulation --so if any condensation forms purely by temp dif it does not come through -- any slight gaps in insulation will allow hotter air to go up and start the condensation at the joints many cases of this with sips panlled roofs in alaska causing rot of osb sheathing in the panels at the panel joints when using shingles on directly top of panels -- solution was to make a second roof with a void so they have a draught and shingles stay cold .like you would do with a tiled roof using batons to lift them off and giving a gap

THE MAIN THING THEY NEED TO DO IS STOP THE SELLING OF QUOTAS - SO YUO LUSE IT OR LOOSE IT. those boats will have bought quotas from uk boats --that what needs to be stopped needs to be caught and landed in uk by uk boats and when sturgeon gets independence thats what she will sell

yes that i can see might cause a problem

for all types of floor then ? If using ufh the diference in size ,presuming you do it in normal conditions will be miniscule ,eg ufh on at 22c can,t see there would be any need wood --yes i can see there could be problems if floor bounces etc interesting

me being thick -- but what is pupose of decoupling mat maybe I been lucky but my lounge tiiled 15years ago with 450mm tiles on top of my suspended wooden floor in which i buried UFH not had any problems

what ever his reason it works for me maybe with this lockdown coming he thinks something is better than nothing ,if the builders stop like at the start when we had full lockdown

its that cheap I might have hired it just to play --even if i didn,t need it.LOL which I do as my site is so big lots of bits to move and tidy up plus fuel of course maybe it was because i greased the last one i hired from him

a wee winner i think spoke to my friendly hire co given me a 6month old takeuchi tb290 9ton digger -- charges will be time on the clock @£12/50 per hour from now till 11th of jan and no delivery or pickup charges who says christmas spirit is not real thats a winner

yuo would be the definative of that

we have the only large fish stocks and crabs ,lobsters etc left in europe --cos the french and others have fished out their own waters long time ago and don,t get me started on the Italians -on net sizes and how they shoot all the migranting wee birds for sport as they come across the med -they do not even eat them ask any game keeper that runs a shoot about french and Italian shooters --if it flys no matter the size they want to shoot it and the ones that come widfowling to the solway -shoot swans and say theythought they were geese -- if you can,t tell the difference --like its white and a very long neck --then you should not be shooting -- so we definately need to keep the fishing and also stop selling of fish quotas by Uk fishermen - same as you cannot sell netting rights for salmon -use it or loose it

and the iother place its bad is where there are more camps --belgium- nothing fake and just as valid as most of the other so called data backed surveys

strange how the countries the immigrants pass through before they camp in calais have the worst covid problems -- another coincidence?

on that subject looking at what ISOTEX are now suggesting for that a self adhesive house wrap by proctor- so yuo do you air sealing on outside of build and before widows fitted - wrap all walls inc round where windows fit -then seal when the yare fitted to finish it off-can also be used on TF looks good will be investigating that some more nearer the time -- its like tanking the whole house