scottishjohn

kind of different price bracket ii think

yuo guys are really cheering me up --better pit the tomb back in the design i think like the pharohs of old --i could buried in it and still not completed .LOL

thats just showing what crap quality and no doubt thin insulation has been used and no joints taped probably If done to a quote it will be thin and cheap stuff used and little time spent on fitting it -more probable that cold sweating condensation will be more of a problem if not lagged in a well insulated house If its well sealed house not really sure how much real heat loss to outside world there will be old drafty house --certainly will be a lot

cost if moisture not a problem closed cell is what they use for buoyancy compartments in boats https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=matt+risinger+spray+foam+insulation+comparison#id=5&vid=c0e9d3091f607e0bb585cf3515a9a2b4&action=view

they also make a closed cell -it you check the site you linked

beware there are 2 types --only closed cell is any good as a moisture barrier open cell is cheaper and good insulation --but not 100% moisture tight

also getting quite popular in US for basement s --they spray the whole outside of anything below ground --very quick to do and also is very good air leak barrier--goesi nall the knocks and crannies by its nature

surely latest regs for smoke detectors and linked alarms will take care of any possible problem there -- law in scotland from 2022

If it did then the heat recovery is crap.LOL and with the gaps under doors the whole house will got same temp with MVHR--drop thermostat or turn off loop to bedroom if you can and see result

must be closed cell foam --not open cell -open cell is not water proof

the reason I asked the question if you were going bare brick things --you may look into spraying whole of inside of brick walls with closed cell spray foam --that is impervious to moisture If you make up studding inside bricks and then spray 30mm, minimum of foam to waterproof and seal studs --then add insulation between them no reason why you cannot get modern insulation spec - and no great loss in room size mount all floor joist on this frame work basically you build a TF house inside what you got now worth a consideration if doing complete refurb?

are you removing ALL the internal lathe+plaster -etc to get back to brick work ? thats where your damp proofing system needs to be ,what ever you choose + insulation is next thing in the wall build up how much reduction in room sizes can or will you accept ?

did your contract price show full detail of what was included ? or anything not included ,which is probably the main point of any complaint, as you rightfuly expected a total costed quote for the job --which it appears you have paid If no exclusions shown --then its down to them the increase in transformer size after you paid -- is worrying as they no doubt have clauses which cover any unforseen alterations required look at your contract next

I would suggest youget a price for the concrete polishing first and then it all depends on what ICF system you use -woodcrete types do not need the serious bracing that poly types do -just plywood bracing attached in weakareas like corners and door =window holes durisol +isotex+ velox ==check those out

very good point

on the assumption that you have no PV then it will cost to run I am guessing those that go for MVHR will also be fitting some solar PV --so cost in daytime to run system will free --sort of heat recovery if a well designed modern build whilst a factor -the cost to heat should be so low that the savings will be small anyway It is ventilation and clean air in cities where the advantages are in my view my wife will still open the windows even if i fit one --and being in the country I have to agree with her really that maybe its a cost + complication we do not need maybe ? same as bifold moving walls --lot of extra cost and complication -when you can just go out side to a covered area like a veranda around the house or a car porch type thing over the patio area . uk is not Australia where they live outside as much as in cities and close proximity of neighbours I can see why some would - maybe its me just tight -- not into bling just for the sake of it --and to me bifold doors are bling -end up with house full of bugs in evening if they are open anyway

2 sorts of felling permits clear felling -which will usually have a replanting requirement --that does not have to be in same place or even same type of tree- and a thinning permit which allows for up to 40% to be cleared and no replanting required both of these need an approved plan from a the forestry man then the last thing you can do is you are allowed to take up to 5cum of wood per calendar 1/4 for your OWN use for ever . good luck on working out that number on a broad leaf tree- pines are easy ones with big branchs to as easy

its called google earth satellite--latest one for my quarry etc shows my car and dumper aand all my new cleared old roads etc---and they get the pictures with sane resolution as military --not what we get for free --planning also use that to look at sites to see whats been going on

and that would mean removing every stump and burning it too --cos they will know by looking at stumps how big they were I cannot say for england but in scotland they redrew the maps making virtually any scrubby bit of ground classed as natural or historic woodland --and can claim your ground has gone back to nature they did this on my quarry ground and i should not have even cleared the old roads without permission +planning from council even FC have to get planning consent to make roads in their own woodland since last year and have had to get quarry planning for any small ones they make inthe eoods to get hard core for roads --and i an extraction permit as well for the stone so just putting a road around your scrub land could need planning ?

you do if its not a garden within a defined boundary and as i found they changed the law last years sop even an old garden of a refurbishment project has to be cultivated area to be classed as garden -- left to do its own thing for 20years + makes it not cultivated --so not a garden in their eyes its the definition of a garden --and 3 acres of ground will not be classed as your garden --only if the planning application shows it as being within the curtilage of your house which must have a defined boundary --like walls

beware you can only remove scrub/trees that are less than 100mm dia @1.3m measured from ground anything larger than that you need a felling license as it is classed as a tree -- even in your garden now speak to forestry commission --£1500 fine for not getting one AND they can make you replant

yes i bought a dumper -but at this time hire diggers

3ton digger would not break 6" roots i think - even the 14t had to gnaw lumps off them before it could break them so maybe 3ton would get there eventually with a toothed bucket --not sure it would push them about and definitely not lift them out of the hole

you just have to dig down and round and break the big roots -helps if you leave the trunk about 2 ft long on stump --so you get some leverage as well -never used chains just kept digging at them --never had a fail other than not being able to lift it when we got it out .--had to push a couple out of the way cos i could not really lift them fully --and that was with a 14t volvo -lucky i have a quarry to push them into -down the 300ft drop -they make a nice lot of noise crashing down through the small trees to the bottom- one last thing --grease it every day if you want your pins and bushes to last ----alot cheaper a few cartridges of grease than trying to replace pins and bushes

a mini digger won,t look at tree stumps -even the 14t one i hired struggled with some larger ones anything larger than about 24" dia was a big job and the stumps with roots weighed over 2-3tons --some the digger would not lift I am still pondering about buying my own -- but when a track motor for a decent size digger can be over £1000 and a slew ring --the bit the digger rotates on --will be a £3000+ job to have done --make sure you get a s/h one inspected by a digger specialist so far m ylocal digger hire company who use only up yo 2 year old diggers has been my way -- work out the jobs and plan them then hire the digger 3t taceuchi with 4buckets £269for 7days +vat and free delivery 15t taceuhci £700per week and free delivery I can hire a driver with them for £15 an hour if i want - hard to justify spend £15k on a good 3-4 year old 3t digger --and then have the repairs etc yes nice to have it lying about --but is that best use of the money ? cos then you need to insure it as well!!--the pikeys love mini diggers --they can steal and move them easy + old ones won,t have good trackers on them 7-15ton --they cannot use a van to tow it away first week you should be getting the hang of using it -- digging holes is easy -- hard bit is levelling big areas with back of the bucket and pressing it in at same time --like me remaking my roads after removing trees from them back hoes are not a replacement for a digger and will not go where a tracked digger will and could damage soft ground much worse -- gone out of favour with house builders now -- 4-6ton digger is usual choice if a builder is buying his own for all round flexibility a mini digger won,t even lift a tote bag if boom is stretched out --so very limited on moving materials about a site 3ton digger cannot lift a tote bag at full stretch