scottishjohn

If std sort of site and build --then £1800-£2500 per sq m if you paying someone to build it for you --

after all that work --my guess would be flashings or around any penetrations ,sky lights etc and it is running along roof timbers on inside to where it shows inside It may be cheaper to drop the ceiling down -dry it out --then wait till it leaks again and track it ? you could at least test with a hose on roof and see exactly where its coming in -providing you hose one area of it at a time and start from lowest point of roof and work back to highest can,t see it being the main area of grp if it has been recoated --got to be at and edge of it somewhere . start by playing a hose on the skylight to roof joint nearest where it comes in would be my first port of call,

know the problems well do you have enough ceiling height to attend to floor by adding another insulated one ---what is current floor? the ideal way if it is would be to dig out floor and pour a new one with lots of insulation under it and around it where it touchs granite most old granite houses have no foundations as such -so also have no damp course -so walls suck up moisture from the ground is it old with lathe and plaster on very thick walls and the gap behind the lathes allows it to breath up the walls to the roof If this is the way your going to go then think about UFH at same time maybe? are the rooms large enough to make timber frame studding inside what is there now ?--eg 140mm studding filled with insulation with a gap behind it so any damp coming through the wall and vent out at eaves- or into roof void --if std scotish type roof it will be sarking boards and slates --so an early inspection of the inside to check for any rot is advised -this will need to be kept as a cold area and last insulation will be lots of it on top of ceiling so you do not heat the roof space and cause condensation I am suspecting it is lime mortar walls which need to breathe basically the right way is to make and insulated box inside present shell so walls and roof can breath to the outside there is no insulation value in granite walls worth talking about --so this is why you would build a TF house inside what you have if funds and room size allow pictures would be nice I understand if these things are not possible but it is what you should be aiming for

your strips you intend to fit to get a run on the roof should be placed UNDER the edge of the roof beams on one side like a wall head plate -that way it will be a simple slope from one side to other .

if you think truss is too narrow to have sheet joins on them --then add some width too those trusses by nailing a strip the side of them?

just worked it out at 105bricks -with wasteage per sq M and if high priced facing at £1.23 per brick =£129.15 for bricks +the mortar makes using my on site stone look cheap cost to get it cropped to 100mm wide =£40 sq m- cheaper probably if I buy a cropper -then resell after the job something else to think about

I think when I know what I,m doing I will be looking for a good stone mason that can work with big lumps of granite --and just repair the walls and not replace them -could be cheaper and simpler than other solutions the way things are or go back to the first thought of ICF and crop the stone to clad it

the treating of batons these days is a joke anyway --not treated all the way through anyway --so just apply a couple of coats to cut edges if your making your own

my architect was telling me that his favorite facing brick used to be made by 2 companies in the home counties as most of his work is down there --one has ceased trading and the other now charges £1.23 per brick!!!-£30k a truck load and jewsons here in newton stewart are limiting cement to 5 bags per customer

I do not see how that would effect the insulation in any way it is either stopping heat flow from inside to outside or vice versa or its not I have a large cold store next to my garage approx 30msquare by 20m high and on a _1c day i went out with my thermal temp gun outside of store on walls was same as ambient (-1c) but because they skimped when building it --no insulation under the concrete floor -i watched them building it --I could measure -9c where I could get at the concrete foundations --an example of how things get skimped on in commercial buildings . the walls were not allowing nay of the -30-40c to get to outside and they used 10" thick PIR panels to slot the thing together inside an exposed steel frame work a digger damaged a panel; when tidying up outside after it was built -all they did was cut out the damaged bit and stick in a new bit cur from a spare panel --hadn,t gone all the way through ,just a big gouge in outside

I always find it interesting how PIR gets rubbished all the time If it is that bad explain to me why when you build a cold store you use PIR --not rock wool????-so temp stays stable and does not change that surely proves that it is the best insulation --as frozen food people will not want to spend money on cooling more than they have to I maintain that it is air leaks in bad fitting of PIR that is probably worst fault ,and as we now fit air tight vapour barriers to inside of house even that problem will be very small the caravan problem -of pir bonded to roof sheets is simply that -direct heating of tin and direct contact of pir - and probably lack of a decent h/vac system inmost cheapo industrial units --so heat rises and sits there --you already have told us the solution --not rocket science hot air rises and gathers if no draft or holes to allow it to escape the first big commercial units built in the 70-80,s had rock wool between the inner and outer skin , cos it was cheaper , and I can tell you from experience they were much worse than bonded type modern roof sheeting I believe the foil coating on std PIR is to reflect the heat and that why purpose roofing PIR does not have it --cos it will be in direct contact with roofing felt - no air gap as in normal slate roof or air gap as it TF frame housing to outer skin with MVHR any perceived advantages of rock wool will be negated as thats what it does -- for my part as I live in rural scotland --I just open a window --more gadgets means more problems and expense later on and we don,t have the polluted air you city dwellers do .

the answer to the thick stones is to get them cropped down to 100mm --like a brick --then any brickie will work with them cost locally here is £40sqm to get my own granite cropped --less than half the price of new cladding stone -or if you hands on hire a cropper and do it yourself that way you can keep it looking like it did --and gain alot of space inside

there are good reasons why you don,t see many stone buildings on here firstly the walls are so thick and of no insulation value what ever - mine are 700mm thick -so you will end up in building a wood frame house inside it with a gap between it and the original walls --which then make room sizes much smaller --as you will be adding close to 200mm per outside wall --so room shrinks by 400mm + 50mm air gap +140/160mm wood framed walls and allow it to vent at the wallhead to outside very few if any old stone houses have foundations -so they suck up damp from ground as they don,t have a DPC either in the walls . If old building it will be lime mortar so it has to breathe as its not water tight . the reason most say remove floor is that you need a DPC under floor +150-3000mm of insulation+ 100-150mm of concrete to fit your UFH into your UFH is trying to heat the whole of scotland if you skimp on insulation in floor area Tanking the bottom of existing wall might work but moisture will still be rising from the lack of foundations and would need to have any exterior soil build up around the building moved away and a french drain to help stop the rising damp its for these reasons that so many old houses had wood panelling up the walls --wainscoting the walls --and old lathe and plaster started well of the floor these are some the reasons why any builder will tell you --if you have a choice --to flatten and start from scratch -as it will be cheaper and better --you can still clad in stone if you wish . get the fabric correct and heating it will be very easy with whatever system you choose.

Is there a limit to how many you would get planning for under the act Is it worded such that is for one unit only per site ? and can you use it as permanent dwelling ?

the travellers leave cos they probably stole them when full to start with

still no further forward at this time --so nothing been done from small excavations of the floors which have up to 2ft of old roof and floors and plaster on them It would appear that half of the house has solid and half had suspended floors

the "bean counters " have always been the problem --not the idea of the unit

your quote working on @£1500 sqm is about £90000 short -- so double check everything that is or is not included 243sqm x1500=£364500

If its going to that much -- which i doubt --then a well would be cheaper probably

made worse by most peole buying cheap -"black and round" --not first line tyres which have better sidewalls --but yes I do not like "drug dealer wheels " either -a new audi with 300 x30 X22 tyres bent 3 rims and they cost £750 per rim --only suitable for very good roads

you just said it all "those that can DO --those that can,t --teach" and to quote wikipedia -- ----------------

I,m not bothering to answer @SteamyTea and correcting him as all he wants is an argument as the atmosphere is 80% N -- you will get some -- not to any great level - -there will be oxides of N created probably by the magnetic fields in a big electric motor ,but as it is not totalled encased and going through an exhaust it is not measured+ lots of cooling of it - - -and production of electric causes pollution as well --no matter how it is made and no waste precious metals to dump or recycle -- and there will be no recycling while it is cheaper to dig new lithium up and process it --even more pollution from that .- and we will never have a shortage H2O-- ,and the by product from electroylsis to split it --oxygen is useful as well everything you do to release energy -causes pollution -- how much and how long term viable it is should be the goal -not another cheap fix like oil

I,m waiting for the bog std -little or no frills EV or hybrid at the cheap end of the market --which must come eventually -too many gadgets on many modern car , or maybe by that time house is built I might look for something good s/h and solid body to convert to EV --so only the drain train is EV still on the fence -would have preferred they went the hydrogen way as every car maker in the world know how to make piston engines --had 100 years practise

maybe ask them for an approved contractor and get price from them?

sorry what you are being told by @ToughButterCup is correct I think separate building- my guess you will need change of use and will have to comply to everything . go ask the questions from planning maybe pay a few quid and get preplanning conversation with them