scottishjohn

If it is as boggy +clay as you say ,then you could have problems making a soak away work.

so you went for the cheap choice - as the cement is the active part in the mix--and the people that would get sued --then I believe the cement bag mix is correct . more cement will give you a better finish if you float the next one

from your description you now have a clay lined 800mm deep pond? if that is correct then you will have to put a drain ,if only temporary in there to drain it out --so that means it has to run downhill from the base of your clay pond to somewhere

looks like they used "flash band " which is thin lead and has a butyl adhesive backing -- not real flashing which as you say should befitted in a raggle in the wall and made purely from lead it is a lot cheaper to use flashband ,but can see now why it is really a repair material to patch things and not a first choice to build with . If you can get at it you might be able to heat with a hot air gun on the lead side and then roll it back onto the wall+ roll it hard to make it bond -butyl never goes hard and gets sticky when heated If left like that it will eventually peel itself off when it gets hot in the summer--so pick a hot day and you might just be able roll it back on and use lots of pressure

very weak mix for concrete 6-1 with ballast!! looking at the cement bag it says 4-1 with ballast mix maybe not a big deal with that size for a grp box --but bear in mind its something like a foundation for a wall

my work glasses are actually my shooting glasses - and i find i wear them most of the time when out and working or driving as they darken as it gets brighter +the lens are strong to take hits from things but now I need a cataract doig in the left eye --my master eye for shooting and i,m a lefty -- so not much shooting going now till i get that done

this reminds me of a car I did a colour change on - what I did not know was it had had lots of repaints before with a TPA paint the paint was so thick that when the new 2 pack paint went on it softened the layers under it but the top dried as it is a chemical reaction as well as solvent evaporation and the under layers then shrank and gave a real orange peel effect now if you have sprayed on lots of coats without allowing enough time for each to fully dry --then maybe this what ahs happened under layers get sealed in with last cost which dried quick and then it softens as other coats attempt to vent out the water content which would go into plaster and then come out ,but was sealed in I,m guessing its water based paint --

you should asking where the drafts are coming from to start with +seal them up

shared access and costs --runaway!! cos when it needs doing you will find others think its fine or plead poverty been there done that never again unless you want to make it up to council spec and get them to adopt it

using old out of date plaster?-which then never sets right without actually seeing it he could not be more specific was another suggestion from my master plaster

why does it look black under the white --was it painted already?

If you can find enough real money --then buy the plot --then you can take as long as you want or have caravan --securing plot with planning is first thing . round here phouses all selling for 25% over asking price--thats not usual here since easing of pandemic so I have to believe that will happen in others areas

did you "tack rag" the surface before starting? -as any loose dust etc will stop adhesion I just asked my plaster master mate his question was --"are you sure the plaster was FULLY dried out," as in weeks maybe 2 0r 3 weeks -longer if in winter and hard plastered onto block walls which could have been be wet as well -definately not plastered on friday and painted on monday hope it helps

someone does an EV conversion for landrovers

the developer is probably in a hole on the moors some where --

If there is already an access --this probably what they are getting at --they don,t like allowing you to make new or more access to public roads was it the planners or the roads that complained about it -there will no doubt be a roads dept document somewhere in the planning outling how they want it to be I know here any gate has to be min of 6m back from road to allow you to be off road when opening and closing gate and they also insit on a drain channel so no water goes onto road from your land at the junction -

you could use a space blanket under and across the joists+tape joints-something to stop heat and drafts getting from under house to inside your house through the floor --if you can get to underside of joists--underside of joist needs sealing somehow as the insulation is obviously not a good tight fit to joists --maybe even spray foam --all depends if you can get to underside of floor then can you push celotex+UFH piping up hard to your wood floor and pin it there and seal all edges with tape or something ?

I think your piccie shows exactly what is going on . new section the pipes are showing very bright and concentrated --other piccie shows the heat dispersed all all round the pipes, so the actual pipes not showing as hot --so its likely you have avoid around pipes so heat is going out the bottom and anywhere it wants to and not being directed upwards only to the floor . can you get under the old floor to add insulation to stop heat going down and block any holes at end of floor joists where it can leak out?

should have read SHARED driveway

different here -I asked scottish water about a similar situation and they would only run 2 sperate pipes from the mains anything else would be classed as sub main ,as no shared supplies allowed - a sub main and any maintenance would be not their responsibility it would be be mine -- I would not accept that -- would be same problem as shred driveway maintenance costs---

buy your plot as soon as you can decide where you want to be -- it will only go up in price and 10 years inflation could make a big difference and maybe so much that you will never be able to get the plot you want then it could take years to get planning -and if you change your mind --you will make money on resale of plot

no other vehicle of the size can LEGALLY tow as much weight as a landrover --no other vehicle of its size can tow a 3ton digger +trailer OR A HORSE BOX AND 2 BIG HORSES --thats why people like them as they out dated junk ,that should have had the basic problems sorted 30years ago--YES why no galvanised chassis from new? , when by 1960,s they knew they were just buckets - lots of other well known problems i could recount --but no need if you have one you will know about them

I suspect they want to keep it on the same footprint as original one ,as now you are replacing the whole house ,you could maybe do it in two parts --eg original foot print then apply for and extension on that when the build is in progress . seen a others do that maybe time for a planning consultant ?

you fit batons --then clad them with thick OSB ,then add breathable membrane ,then nail on the slates, needs to be thick OSB to give nails something to fix to - If using sarking boards --they must be treated and leave small gaps between them -to allow for movement of wood as it will grow when damp

I would have thought 25mm vertical batons to fix sarking boards or (osb sheeting) to - and another vapour barrier between slates and sarking ?- should be fine ,providing it can vent out of the ridge and bug screen at gutter level