scottishjohn

made worse by most peole buying cheap -"black and round" --not first line tyres which have better sidewalls --but yes I do not like "drug dealer wheels " either -a new audi with 300 x30 X22 tyres bent 3 rims and they cost £750 per rim --only suitable for very good roads

you just said it all "those that can DO --those that can,t --teach" and to quote wikipedia -- ----------------

I,m not bothering to answer @SteamyTea and correcting him as all he wants is an argument as the atmosphere is 80% N -- you will get some -- not to any great level - -there will be oxides of N created probably by the magnetic fields in a big electric motor ,but as it is not totalled encased and going through an exhaust it is not measured+ lots of cooling of it - - -and production of electric causes pollution as well --no matter how it is made and no waste precious metals to dump or recycle -- and there will be no recycling while it is cheaper to dig new lithium up and process it --even more pollution from that .- and we will never have a shortage H2O-- ,and the by product from electroylsis to split it --oxygen is useful as well everything you do to release energy -causes pollution -- how much and how long term viable it is should be the goal -not another cheap fix like oil

I,m waiting for the bog std -little or no frills EV or hybrid at the cheap end of the market --which must come eventually -too many gadgets on many modern car , or maybe by that time house is built I might look for something good s/h and solid body to convert to EV --so only the drain train is EV still on the fence -would have preferred they went the hydrogen way as every car maker in the world know how to make piston engines --had 100 years practise

maybe ask them for an approved contractor and get price from them?

sorry what you are being told by @ToughButterCup is correct I think separate building- my guess you will need change of use and will have to comply to everything . go ask the questions from planning maybe pay a few quid and get preplanning conversation with them

sips floors used often in russia where permo frost is prevalent -- house is built on plies and then all sips construction floors walls and roof you will find plenty of examples on u-tube of DIY houses constructed this way using both OSB panels and MGO ones

possibly a bit harsh --but would you think a flat with badly specified UFH should command a better price than a STD system that works -- we all seen the slagging ASHP get when badly specfied or fitted in an old house with many basic problems but it was statement that UFH will make it command a higher price - even though he has been told it won,t work I know what my view would be if I bought it and was expecting a good performing system and economical running costs and not something a buyer could check on at all at time of purchase ,only when the gas bills came in would he find the truth of how bad a system I know in England now some house sales have a clause that if things like heating,cooker etc fail or do not work correctly --then there can be a claim back to sort the problem under the terms of the sale agreement -- for a period after sale

no one here is telling you UFH is a good solution and all are telling you it will not work well if you cannot get more insulation under it - but as you seem to know it all I cannot understand why you bother to ask our gurus ? If you can afford 40mm of height -then use part of that to insulate the concrete floor -then add floor covering and fit std rads with plumbing hidden in skirting boards and as you say the floor above is concrete - then to do the right job that should also be using thick insulated PB on the ceiling or you will be heating both the flat above and the one below I would consider your idea to fit that UFH to extract a better price is almost fraudulent as it will not give any of the advantages that UFH does when fitted correctly and will cost more to run that std rads so don,t be telling us you care about the buyer -- you don,t -- its all about the profit to you

will be a failure with NO insulation below -do not fit with on insulation layer ones with no insulation assuming you are using an insulation layer then fitting panels OR you have a full concrete floor with insulation uderneath the slab and then creed on top of your panels and pipes

sleeper wall sounds quicker and simpler imagine making all those holes then finding out they not quite right spacing and then if holes big enough having to cement them all in 30 mins a hole ? x 45 =22.5 hrs !!!-- could be more like an hour each one pretty sure you will build a sleeper wall quicker or attach blocks with rawl bolts to exsisting wall to support each one --would give much more tolerance to jiggle sideways to make them a tight fit on in fill bocks maybe there are purpose made brackets for doing this?

Izodom -- was that from Econekt- the uk agent or direct from a supplier in poland?

the wood will still breathe cos you only do it between the rafters and not on tops of batons

may not be cheapest way -- but If i were wanting to insulate that tiled roof and make it vapour proof I would buy a froth pak - kit and just spray i with closed cell foam --not only will it insulate and make a water proof seal - it will stick and loose tiles in place for ever

and you will still be alive not fallen off the ladder and head like split melon when you hit the floor

If you are going to put up with going up and down ladder with every bit of insulation and trying to string a vpc on your own --then i don,t see building the tower on your own is a big thing the time taken to do this will cut the job time by 50% or more

to work off -- NO not me -other than changing a light bulb

I,m sure there are places if there is no permofrost when nice soggy ground will work well with slinky as heat transfer is 50%better through wet ground than dry . and a holiday home will not be used 24/7 all year round ,so I can see the extra cost of a borehole could be prohibitive but that does not mean that would not be the best solution long term if you have months of -20c temps

I am totally sure that GSHP is a better solution for colder climates but not that convinced on "slinky" type set up for cold climes bore hole yes the extra work to bury slinky deep enough to work in very cold climate with long winter -- could outweigh cost of bore hole I will leave @SteamyTea to explain why you are wrong about parasitic power losses etc --like power to run the compressor etc-

If we got -15c to -23c regularly every year in uk for long periods --then thats when GSP would be a better choice-

power consumption to run the unit against actual heat recovery from the cold air everything takes power to run and COP is measure of kw power IN to KW heat OUT

I bet it don,t say its COP ratio of 3 at that temp will be cop of 1 or less if it can work that low outside temp maybe got an immersion heater in line to lift temp of output if heat pump cannot keep up

No check with makers

if he steps it down at house end ,then normal pump will run it -as the flow rate will be what the smaller pipe can flow --I think you will have more heat loss in the buried though due it holding more volume could be a good idea to put smaller size one up the big one if you feel it is a problem

yes it just moves more air to get the bigger output I have a mitsubishi one a t8kw the 14kw has an outside box alot bigger and 2 fan units instead of one-it just extracts heat from a larger volume of air do you have 3 phase? it would be cheaper running on that i think