scottishjohn

do you have a plan to show us ? thats was passed for your panning consent? or do you only have outline consent and no actual approved plans

with respect If you need me to answer that question ,then I am not convinced you have the mind set for a self build

they don,t have to be that big look online and you will see you can buy sips panel blanks all sizes like 8x4== two sheets of OSB with polsteyene foam in between --they can be man handled one of many suppliers https://www.sipsdirect.co.uk/product-category/blank-panels/

if minimumwallthickness is paramount ,then surely SIPS is the way ? and dead easy to do and will be quick to assemble and easy to get airtight you will not have much latiitude on insularion thickness as buidling regs will have to be complied with

I suppose first thing to sort out is the overal buget then you can makedecisions on what you can do - and if your T/f is going to be cheaper than block -- once you have a shell watertight it makes diy alot easier i would have liked to od itall myself ,butour agse and size made that impossible so most of my work has been outside altering the scenery,lanscaping and building walls etc do you have planning and a design yet -- that could eat up a lot of time once that is done then you can get quotes for what you don,t want to do and maybe it will all be clearer then

Iwould be happy to be paid anything per hour -with all the time i have put in and damage to the old body if money is an issue and time is secondary then anything you can do yourself will be like getting paid -or not paying out £25 an hour so if you have somewhere to live while you do it crack get stuck in

or maybe use grp shaped flashing?

which is why mine will the cement board type of product

we had tnaking problems with the old washhouse -- now a garge the ground outside was right to top of the walls as can be seen if you lookat my thread original wall was 200years + old and very iffy my builders solution build 4"block wall next to orighinal stick on mebrane isidenew wall ,then gap and block wall again gap filled with concrete time will tell if it was the right way

sytem used in my house has been subfloor with refeforcing mesh - then dpc whcih stands up the walls to finished floor hieght 140mm of celotex boarding next is UFH piping then final 75mm screed to finshed floor height

I,m ging for stick down :VT and my man will not do job unless he uses floor levelling compound after he has sanded the sreed first and same fpr upstairs over the ufh flooring system all makes it an expensive job they won,t even fit click ik type lvt flooring on an area as big as mine they consider it a DIY system i got same advice form major flooring manufacturers they also do not fit the flooring till all other work is done inc skirtings and kitchen bathroon sanitary etc etc

bythe time you have chopped itdown and logged it -- it burns fine -certainly no need to stack and keep for months before it burns very well and cleanly

evryon including architect wanted me to fit wood burning soves in the house do iwant to be cutting trees and loging four years from now bearing inmind i,m 72 with a dodgy left leg and other things and cutting trees on40degree bankings ,then getting dumper to pull them out to flat area NO even though ihave lots of ash trees which you do not need to seaon --cut it and burn it with a couple of weeks that si why the ash is so calld --cos you burn it all you get left is ash

don,t look that bad to me and iwouldn,t do anythig unless to intend to fit a black angled strip with blck sikafllex on inside and give a black surround look

skim coat will be approx 3mm by the time its polished etc and you will find a reasonable plasterer easier than one that will do a good taping job how you going to make corners right wih taping --the croner strips will be about 2.3mm up stand -- als o inthe staes they have 16ft long plaster board --so not many joints to my builder was teling me yesterday it has tkaen 96 bags of plaster so far ,but it is 400sq ms

grp it all with upstands at wall your main problem is the lack of height at the door sill to get a good seal to building how thick are your tiles ? my humugus balcony was done like that with lead flashing coming down over the grp is there neough space to raggle some lead below the window area when tiles are removed ? final thought where are the window bottom channel drains going to cos it will gather up there as it runs down the windows,myabe laeking from there to lower floor god forbid it is from the pipework from your balcony drain you could go old school and once tiles are up use hot tar toseal it then retile sounds like you need to remove plaster board from room below -to watch where it comes in maybe plaster board will be knackwered anyway soon

that will be due the ground you are building on only one layer in mine as tis sitting on live roack and compacted granite

you reasons on slate -- first one is you need 2 rowas at bottom to cover gaps in bottm row second is to slow up speed of water coming of roof what they did with my house is to use grp sheeting approx 12" wide under first row to make up the gaps --its less than 1mm thick ,so making slaters job much easier

looking closely at picture it wound appear the both gables are higher than the midlle measurement inside from ceiling joists or wall head to ridge in multiple places including both ends will show if it is indeed sagging if modern house not much chance of jacking it up on ceiling joists as they will be part of the truss and then adding more cross braces-you would need to bring up some serious timber to put across the wall head to jack against one truss at a time measurement first will tell you what you need to know - do you have any thoughts of making rooms up there ? you could jack up and then add sister strusses - not an easy job or add new ones of the attic type get the roof striaght and then cut out cross braceson old ones ones where needed and you have beginning of attic conversion ? maybe not enough head room though going by picture I am guessing the raters are not covered in OSB or sarking boards--just tar paper across the rafters my guess trusses were slightly under spec for weight and this is the result how old is house ?

yes my planning states that gates must be 6m back from road -to allow gettingo ut of car to open gates and not blocking road

to add my two pence worth my house has 6-700mm granite stone walls ,then 50mm air gap then 150mm t/f and insulation I can say now that mass matters to making a stable temp even now with still no bifolds fitted --but just blanked off with ill fitting osb -no heating as yet the temp inside is stable and in rooms that are finshed that get sun -and bear in mind these are not huge windows in old stone house the temp goes up noticably so much there have been days when joiners and plasters have complained of it being colder inside than out and upsatairs where it is all plasetered etc it is much warmer . but yes i agree with others that spending on insulation and stopping air leaks sghould be top priority on any house--

Iwould ring everbuild tech to see if it is happy going onto damp OSB

you can buy ready made grp flashings/ edging of all shapes to do what you are suggesting

there are plenty of adhesives that work on steel like sixaflex --that sticks your car windscreen in all you will need is an adhesion promoter primer I used to replace part body panels on cars with it - so idid not have to distrub the weldsand sealing of them the lotus alluminimum chassis are stuck together with it If you can,t find it ring your local windscreen company and ask them --maybe they will give you some ? or speak to SIKA tech dept --they will sort you out

yes side extension - no mention of how many floors etc -- just wanted 1m to boundary which if you think about it is sensible for repairs and alos inmtial building ,you need over 1m to get scaffolding in