scottishjohn

I would not be happy with no mechanical fixing at lower edge if this stud wall has a door frame as part of it , just asking for long term problems .when people bang doors you should use a thermal gun and find out where the UFH p[ipes are ? then fix lower rail so you miss them .

why not make stud wall on the floor to start with make it short in height - use top packers -then apply glue to bottom rail when you raise it up and fix top rail with spacers if needed to make it tight . lot easier to make stud wall on its back on floor

don,t confuse the non techie people ,not as though hes going to make one is it?

If like here you can have a buried gas meter away from house or on the wall what ever you like --so they can just bring it into the plot and cap it off till you ready to connect ,just ask them .

-- get sizing checked by independant heating engineer-if not right size it will not be as cheap to run as you think and what happens if it dies -who pays to replace it for the rest of the 7 years

good man

osb +grp i hope my man would not fit any decking unless he could do grp same day

when I get to that stage will look to see if they do a 2 pack sealer --that will not fade could it be the cleaner is eating it away?

ASHP is nothing like an air con unit it runs on electric I suppose it depends how cheap you get your hot water from distict heating system . It needs to be outside the building and does make some noise,less than air con unit so position from neighbours needs to be though about

maybe needs more coats to seal all the porous surface of the grout stuff i was going to use said 2 to 3 coats maybe choose a black grout?

bolted to a foundation ? thats has DPC belowit?

Iwas told the same +didnt, --but 4 years on it is getting discoloured in places ,especially in toilet --so will not be listening to "professionals " again

so if you so good at quoting why did you not ask the guys if they were sure that was enough . and ask for breakdown of costs labour +parts. my roof man would have said was --no OSB- -go ask someone else if you want OSB proper 19mm t&g flooring mdf only his quotes are very simple £100sqm for making a new grp roof so he would have been more expensive --but maybe better in long run especially for balconies I,m not trying to rip people off by getting cheap quotes, I ve had cheap quotes and seen what they intended to do and said no thanks like double glazing one time --got price then noticed all plasterwork etc was up to me--they didn,t get the job--they wouldn,t give a crap how they pulled it out they didn,t have to fix it they came back 3 weeks later and wanted to know why --all of a sudden 4 days later they are back the plasterwork and touch up with my paint was included--they were very careful how they cut out old windows needed hardly nothing other than decorators sealer--to start with they said my inner widow ledge would have to go --it never was moved ,but by same token don,t try to rip me off- with materials listed in quote you can see if they are using what you would consider correct quality materials

yes I know ,thats why i asked cos any advert you see they always show NO gap to make them look better. did you seal the grout

I take it you have a tile laying machine to place these monster units. you won,t hand lay them 60kg ? why would you need to tile in small bits around pillars -- just cut out corners of tiles .sounds like you need a few osb 1200m x1200 mm tiles to play around with it and then use them to cut templates for nasty pillar fitment --and scribe on to real tiles. no one can see what you have got so it will be a nice krypton factor job for you alone. osb tiles are the answer to working it out you bought the tiles yet ? maybe tile maker might have a bit of software he can work it out for you

slight derail what is minimum you would want if going for PV and maybe selling some back in future

I agree with that --local trades always want to do "a time +materials " rather than quote which i just won,t put up with now --unless it really is something that cannot be quoted for , local plumbers are the worst --never have all the common fittings and keep disappearing off job to go get them . they just make the job last all week and work slowly man comes into me and says "how much to do a clutch on a mondeo"--he expects me to give him a quote and stick to it .then usually expects it done super fast would be great if i could say the same ,and then make it last all week

It shouldn,t most portal frame buildings are ontop of a slab and portal bolted to slab DPC is under the slab now it is not that type eg post holes and frame legs dropped in them+ concreted ,then concrete floor laid inside that tank all the perimeter floor in between the legs and up the legs --job for your structural engineer to design and detail for your plans, could be he will want you to dig down at outside and tank that. might easier just to lay another slab with dpc on that one and around the legs--job for the architect or SE to keep BC happy If its an old agricultural building ,may not even have a dpc --farmers get away with everything

bottom line if you use one man band trades --you got sod all chance of getting money back so use trades with good rep if in any doubt. probably different here as a very tight knit area --you can soon find out who not to trust by asking around but alot less choice as well. I must a have a reputation --cos when I look for quotes very few reply -cos they know I ain,t going to take no crap job. and would go knock their door very quickly if a problem . If you go for the cheapest you usually get what you pay for

I,m very much a scuffy out door type --so that is what is planned for my build . To be fair I have mixture of hard floors in present house of quickstep and tiles --been down over ten years and the quickstep still looks good and its in kitchen and hall ,so high wear zones the wife after living with them for years now and seeing just how much crap must have been sitting in carpet is a full convert and would never go back to soft floors did you butt those porcelain planks up tight and if not how wide a gap+ what sort of sealer on grout

no not really --costs a few percentage for them to take the card payment between 3-5% usually then about £50 a month to have the facility +machine--for very little usage so I would be suprised if builders had a credit card facilities. builders merchants --different story ,as they would be happier not giving credit to small one man bands sometimes

thats why so many people ban shoes in the house -- cuts down on damage dramatically you want no damage,then cermaic tile it--good choice if under floor heating

moved this from your other thread "Thanks John, damp is a concern. There is a tiled gutter along the ground between the two down pipes, maybe we should extend that. I quizzed the tenants when we looked round it, they reckon it isn’t damp, hopefully our surveyor will agree! I’m hoping that there’s a bit of a gap (just a foot or so) under the floor beams, it sounds pretty hollow". do not rely on the surveyor if all he being paid for is for a mortage application need a much more in depth look then they ever give .the fact you know someone has made a half an attempt tells you there is a problem and needs sorting right first time get professional advice now as how to cure it .my guess its tanking brick work and pouring new concrete floor with a DPC.stud walls with vapour barriers +thick insulated plaster board and leave an air gap from top to bottom behind walls into roof space/soffits for ventilation --i could be talking crap --get professional help now before spending any money

my first thoughts are if its victorian it is probably solid brick wall --no void ,so it will be lather +plaster and air gap up the back of it If you justinsulate and do not attend to wal dampnes possibilites insulating it could make all sorts of problems I am guessing you r ground floor beamns are just supported on soil and slate packers -- again dampness possibilites seal it all up and no ventialation you will get mould I see ground is built hard up to outside wall and door threshold is nearly ground level again another damp possibility if you can can you need a nice drainage system around the outer wall to stop dampness going into brick + then into house you need some proper inspection to address these possiblities before racing into insulation

cost only,,but now doubt that is a real option with changes in laws coming