scottishjohn

yes like outside house where all drains join together before going on to sewer . easiest way anyway to get all the under foundation drains together and cleanable if you get blockage in years to come

yes because if pipe drys out and then a small flush leaves something sticky half way down and then it drys to side of pipe it is the beginnings of a blockage , so vertical drops with rodding points is better for that situation . which is why I think larger pipes have less drop so the bottom of pipe is always wet

I am expecting to have to have multiple drop chambers with my build as septic tank is going to be 20ft below house I think due to slopped nature of site and hard ground issues may get away with tank being closer to house and then just driange field will be down hill a long way

you need a manhole outside the house where all your foul water pipes connect in a chamber so this where you should calculate from to inside house at floor level to get the drop correct before it goes to main sewer connection and that connection needs a minimum of 450mm drop into the actual sewer /septic tank you BC man will want to check all this before you cover them up and probably require you to do a smoke or pressure test Is this connected to mains or is it septic tank as all these heights and drops should have been worked out before fitting septic tank

maybe i,m being thick but surely the postion of the rest bend is dictated by the level at which the drain enters the foundation and if required you need to extend the top of the rest bend to height you need not fix it so it connects directly to the bog- rest bends or 87.5 degree slow bends are always preferred as a drain rod can go round them much easier --no short 90bends under ground if possible If you are short of height I suggest that your pipe run outside house is too shallow and maybe you should be checking and adjusting them first

my thoughts would be to use counter battens this would be the make up membrane on top of sarking boards vertical battons attached to sarking then membrane that very slightly sags with counter battons on top of it that gives you your 50mm void and nice draft up roof to dry things out and just enough sag to stop water gathering up behind the cross battons then fix slates to counter battons. fit bug screens at lower edge of roof ay gutter level and some ventilated ridges at top this should mean you can fill under sarking with insualtion as it is now a cold roof with ventilation

where I live and about to build new house --s/w scotland it would be a no brainer --composite every time -- its a damp climate with clean air and everything not in direct sun goes green --so easy to hit it with the power wash to clean up real wood to me is not on my list for those reasons and why I will probably clad and not render more expensive now maybe --cheap in 10 years time there are cement board cladding types that looks like wood as well as plastic types .

Hi, yes i have seen these as well ths compnay uses them and they are german made --so should be fine https://www.ecoenvelope.co.uk/

Ihave a titan 9" angle grinder which ifitted with blade for block cutting some 10 years ago worn out 2 blades doing block paving as well as a few metal grinding blades gearbox has been noisy for 5 years fitted the spare set of brushes supplied with it still going strong. I did repack gearbox .but still makes noise think it was £30 all those years ago --now £69 --but looks the same and it will still bite if your not careful !! very handy the way the handle swops round for left +right handed good cheap tool# I bought titan aligator saw at same time --thats still going strong and has been well abused

then trying to do it cheap will be hard . If you lifting roof then you could always run a couple more rows of blocks round the top of wall to give you hieght? maybe just jack it up where it is with acrow props and secure while first row of blocks are added-then dop it back down--then up again for next row of blocks --or just pack it as you go , thats what I,ve done that before on old scottich barn . using a car trolly hack to lift --then adjusted acrows to suit ---tight against wall so it can not wobble how much height do you need? make up plywood box beams in lengths and slip in like a very thick sole plate , I made one of those to use instead of an RSJ could not get crane in to lift RSJ but made in plywood --was man handleable by 6 men --26ft long -to replace roof truss support that previous owner had cut out when removing supporting wall to make car show room bigger 15"deep with zig zag internal bracings all glued and screwed and one vertical support-you would need no vertical support as it would still on wall head its still there now 25 years later and roof never moved?

If you are changing the roof and the floor --sounds like you need a bulldozer and start again -it could end up being cheaper. nearly always cheaper building new -other wise you are spending lots of money on carefully pulling things to bits, supporting things ,trying to save things ,which is time consuming, then trying to rebuild around problems you already have and compromising all the time. with new floor built on top of original means all door frames etc will be wrong by 150mm (6")minimum,so you are now into altering walls and lintels to fit new door frames ,or have them hobbit size ceiling heights could be too low after --the list is endless ,so you need to think it all out now before starting

you are probabnly right --just wondered if any one had done it I am expecting ground to be very rocky anyway ,as its on a hill and there is a granite quarry further up the hill just a way of dumping all the rock in one go in the hole like a gabion . finally getting closer to getting the plots bought -after all the usual solicitors searchs etc ,etc

more expensive and yes i did say fill the IBC with rocks and geo textile arund outside https://www.guttersupplies.co.uk/products/soakaway-systems/soakaway-crate-(heavy)-rainsmart-65t-flat-packed/?keyword=&matchtype=e&device=c&campaign=&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BS | Test&utm_term=4584345012945761&utm_content=All Products you would need 4 @£65 each to be same volume as 1 x IBC Iwould intennd to make big hole for 110pipe inside and lots of holes in plastic --weight of stones will keep it in shape will it not?

If it were me I would suck it up and make it hard wired for long term reliability a bit of conduit buried and cable through it. short cuts don,t always work out better in the long run . but I am a ludite by nature simple is best .LOL also leaves easy upgrade potential for other sensors etc

As the title use IBC in its cage filled with rock and geotextile around outside between cage +tank + lots of holes what do think boys ?

that what air bricks are for to ventilate under floor sealing under joists will improve insulation dramatically --trapped air is best insulation you can get

dangerous to use diggers when you don,t know where things are

first job must be to find it get your water divining rods out AND FIND IT.and also your water supply pipe and fit a toby move it away from your extension you damage it --you will be liable for all the costs and claims from those downstream you really want a digger to be rumbling around over this OLD water supply. maybe now is the time to get the water tested --maybe it all should be replaced anyway ? asbestos water pipe sounds like 50 +years old very unlikley it was buried 6ft down --thats costs money 2ft is more like it very much in range of digger for new foundations !!!

thats total bollocks -springs and water courses are rgularly piped just fit correct/larger than needed pipe surround it in solid concrete with inspection /access hole both ends of unsder ground section they cannot object to that

even more reason not to push the limits , if you get hurt doing and things go wrong house may never get finished you don,t bounce as well at 40+ as you did at 20. you are supposed to get smarter with age not more stupid. how many of your ladders are actually tied to something ?

If you not going battery then go 110v --then you won,t get dead when you cut through the cable there is a reason all site tools have to be be 110v by law you know 240 is DIY . even my cement mixer is 110 v

If its stairs to hump stuff up ,then better to make them smaller riser height and less angle to save the knees when loaded 200mm riser( 8") is too big 150mm will be better to run up and down when carrying a load

If it dpoes npot fill up by march --it never will you will need to fit a liner

I just looked on u-tube --must be 100 videos on how to buildd a staircase

first layer what ever you choose needs glue +as well as fixings to increase strength and cut down on squeaking. my choice 22mm t+g chipboard your design should state what thickness to match up with joist spacing and joist sizes.# everybody is guessing including me as i see no REAL definative spec on joists -150mmdeep but how thick+ what type+ what span ?