Mr Punter

Just awful. Get a proper leadworker in to redo it.

Kytun do retrofit ones as well. I guess you would need to fix to the render with CT1 plus mechanical fixings (stainless screws?) every 800mm of so. https://www.kytun.com/p/retro-fit-tile-dry-verge-alu-50mm-blue_black-24m/c08esbb

Yes they have a standard for housing, flats and commercial. You could also add your own loadings if they were extreme. Normal stuff like water tanks are easily dealt with locally but you can adjust for thick screeds, heavy equipment etc. JJI do Joistmaster software you can download. You can adjust joist size, deflection etc and it gives you acceptable joists and even price per m2. Make sure you let a "proper" joist designer do the final design as you may have omitted something that could come back and bite you.

12mm is acceptable for the housebashers but if you are a self builder, get a quote for less than 8mm deflection if you want a really solid feel to the floor.

As I have suggested previously, if you specify that you require maximum 8mm or 0.002 x span (whichever is least) deflection there will be no issues with bouncy floors and the cost difference is fairly small. The standard you will be offered is 12mm or 0.003 x span which is crappy.

I have used aluminium standing seam on projects and the panels zip together over halters that prevent uplift but allow expansion. You need Rockwool under the panels or you can hear the noise from the expansion / contraction. The centre of each sheet is mechanically fixed so it does not creep over the roof.

I don't see why you could not get a new connection. Expensive though. The meter and tariff will not concern the DNO.

If you post the quote and the design you may get some other suggestions reducing the cost. I think the overhead heights / wayleave / tree issues may be wishful thinking on your part and will not help your case. My son is electrical engineer / designer and he has loads of issues with DNOs where incorrect assumptions are made that can have serious implications as the project progresses, so get the homework done.

I like the patch panels as they tidy all the cables away. I have mine flush with the plasterboard. You can adapt to phone and poe where needed.

Another vote for the pulley maid. I wonder why they only make them to look olde style?

@Adam2 Is it the case that these will only be suitable for the driveway or are they going to be used for the house as well?

I have not had issues with Kingspan or Celotex. I have found some other makes have shrunk / warped but can't remember the brands and I don't want to accuse an innocent.

Has anyone used the IG Hi-therm+ lintels for a brick/block build? They are meant to be good at reducing thermal bridging. I was going to use them on a project but the lead time was too long.

They look like Eternit composite slate. Not my favourite but quite cheap and they last OK.

Link?

We have to deal with meter numbers, MPAN numbers and plot numbers with new developments and conversions and when it goes wrong it takes months, sometimes years, to get sorted.

Well Rod you certainly have a house that is unique.

Their standard board is no good as a render carrier. They do a cement based board as well, but their normal boards are gypsum based and prone to mould.

Litter tray!

Shame to have to mess about again for just a storage container. They should have brought a more suitable vehicle to offload. You will need the big boy telehandler to move that.

As per @ProDave and if you fit whole house MVHR ducting you can change the actual unit when it dies or becomes obsolete. Single room units maybe best if you are in a studio flat or for retrofit.

It looks fine. It is more usual to have measurements in millimetres. When you build this make sure you cut to open the cavity between bedroom 2 and the enlarged bathroom or you will have cold bridge and damp issues.

Crushed concrete is probably the cheapest way to make up the levels. It needs to be spread in layers and very well compacted.. You could put a 100mm layer of type 1 on this an it will wack down nice and flat. EPS is fine as insulation, then concrete on top. Did you consider doing a passive slab, which is a reinforced concrete raft sitting on insulation?

What a fantastic project! How do you plan to build it? It looks quite tricky and expensive.

The Icon 15 is fine for WCs and for bathrooms where the duct run is short. For longer runs, the mixed flow Icon 30 is better.