mvincentd

Indeed and thats part of the problem....they're promoting and selling the doors with one appearance but once installed with drip bar it takes on another appearance...which they seemingly can't even give me a picture of. I'm interested to uncover how frequently they might be (effectively) forcing this unexpected 'custom equipment' on people. Has anyone got a door of any kind that doesn't have a drip bar of some sort at the bottom....ie the external door face is entirely flat? Does it keep rain out?

The need for the crane is not in debate...weight is only 1 factor..it's site conditions and position too. 260kg Thanks, that gives me the applicable legislation to investigate.

These doors do not come with a door drip bar to deflect water running down the door to over the door sill. No brochure pictures show the door with a drip bar in place, the drip bar is only listed under 'custom equipment' and even there it is not pictured. I would be grateful to hear from anyone with such a door and to know if it suffers 'leakage' at the threshold. While my supplier/installer prepares to make his 5th visit to try and finally achieve a satisfactory performance I feel pessimistic that they will without resorting to a drip bar....leaving me with an aesthetic I didn't choose.

Anyone have any experience or expertise on this subject? I purchased a skylight, supply only, fitted it, and subsequently identified a fault, which the supplier acknowledges. The supplier is providing a replacement, delivering it and taking away the faulty one. The suppliers warranty excludes responsibility for gaining access to the upstand. That leaves me footing the bill for a crane and glass lifter to take off the faulty one and crane on the new one, approx £1k. There's potentially further expenses in remediating the upstand and membrane depending on what it takes to release the skylight which regrettably is on there with ct1. I've had numerous stories cited to me that make me believe the supplier is liable for all costs to restore my situation to one with a skylight in place and working as it originally should.

I paid near £1k per year site insurance with Protek and have extended it twice pretty much pro rata.

Interesting, makes sense..my offenders are 1m wide x 2.3m high. A further critique...don't know if this is all t&t or just IdealCombi...because of the multi-function job the hinges have to achieve they end up being less beefy, more complex and less optimally sited than on a bog standard door....so while my floor to ceiling T&T's do provide the experience of a door onto the garden, my fitter advised they do need treating with some consideration and care. I find that whilst they are less prone to slamming from wind in the 'turn' than they are in the 'tilt' i'm equally reluctant to leave them turned open due to the greater available travel and subsequent brutality of slam.

Mine don't have any mechanism for fixing the tilt open....it's a single position and reliant on the weight of the window to 'hang' open. In a light breeze they keep opening and closing of their own accord. I haven't yet investigated solutions but for the long term it's intolerable, so i'd advise you check how any chosen manufacturer deals with this.

SE specced the steelwork and I used a local fabricator who also installed them ( he was a small outfit and mucked me around a lot with timing so I would not recommend and would use a larger company next time).

I plan to use it on my sloping drive. My building inspector advised not to buy cheap grids because the top of the honeycombs break. Perhaps less of an issue on the flat.

£7800+vat g20789ac posi flat roof (higher roof) layout 11_10_2017.pdf g20789ab posi flat roof layout 18_10_2017.pdf g20789aa first floor layout 18_10_2017.pdf

Talk to a potential structural engineer and ask what they would want the soil survey to cover, because they will design the basement based on that survey so you need to give them what they want.

My egger protect was exposed throughout winter, easily 4 months, had snow sitting on it and countless soakings. I’ve had to belt sand the joints as they swelled despite what I thought was liberal use of d4. Otherwise they’ve survived.

Re' fixed price or day rate, it has to be a trust thing. If you've screwed someone down on a fixed price and think you're getting it cheap, trust the price but dont trust the work!

I'm paying £30/hr in Dorset. The entire 1st fix for my 240sqm 3 bed house has been £1200 x vat for labour so far...there's another half day to go. I did pay a further £350 all-in much earlier once the meter had gone into a cupboard on a boundary wall, to get temporary external sockets running. My 1st fix materials have been circa £800.

I have a sarnafil of 130sqm and a Bauder of 90sqm. The sarnafil was a necessity because it had to bond onto a sika wall membrane. The Bauder is cheaper. Their warranties are comparable and the finished results are comparable. I cannot comment on their durability given mine are only a year old. The roofers preferred the Bauder product to work with. They particularly feel their vcl is superior. My superficial judgement of the materials was that the bauder stuff was better, but what do I know. The bauder inspection was more thorough. The sarnafil required an additional root protection barrier...the bauder didn't (although we didnt green it in the end). I believe any problems will lie with workmanship, not materials. We've had one problem, with the sarnafil, definitely a workmanship issue...whether that has any correlation with the roofers finding bauder easier to work with, I doubt. Shop around, sarnafil write a spec for the job but despite this I still got quotes from their approved installers that varied from £38k to £56k for the exact same job.

Thanks for the details @Luckylad, the relative ease is inspiring.

Many of us have built basements. How many of us have built basements in London terraced houses? The mechanics of building, we can help with. The unique logistics....I dunno.

@Luckylad if that pic is your result then excellent, could you please expand on your ‘push’ and you ‘render’.....stuff like the render mix, how soon after application did you push the wood on, did you just push and release or keep it in place, if so how long, any release agent on the timber, etc? thanks

Howdens current quote total £1756 xvat broken down as below, no worktops or appliances. Based on this i'd guess for your pictured kitchen maybe £750.

My understanding from a few months back when I needed one was that following Grenfell all these composite doors needed re certifying so were 'currently unavailable'. I resultantly ended up with a wooden door of unspectacular u-value. Things may have caught up by now though.

This any good; https://www.condell-ltd.com/rockwool-rwa45-600x1200x100mm-4ppack-2-88m2

https://www.illbruck.com/en_GB/products/product-finder/product/sp525-frame-and-facade-sealant-adhesive/

I have one window done with this approach, suggested by the window fitter and approved by idealcombi.

I've just fallen foul of this. I put noggins at 1200 vertical centres on advice of builder, but they stagger with every other one being 1150 to make fixing them with paslode easier...so with 50mm thick noggins the consistent unimpeded height where I can unify top of back box height has resultantly become 1125. Rules say top of switch max 1200, and depending on switch plate thats approx 25mm lower than top of backbox....so my switches have been pushed down 100mm by my noggin strategy. Given i'm boarding 2400 vertically i'm gaining nothing having noggins where they are versus set 100mm higher.

I've just plasterboarded my Eclisse sliding door frame and the result is pretty flimsy. I'm considering taking it all off and starting again with ply instead but i'm not convinced the same thickness of ply will make a load of difference. Also the minimal depth of grab the supplied screws achieve into the steel frame (to avoid intruding into the pocket) make me unsure about choosing a much chunkier heavier ply thickness (...and thicker material will necessitate more mitigation when it comes to the supplied lining kit too). Interested in others experiences and solutions, thanks?