mvincentd

I fail to see what that Neptune tray gives you avoiding any work that the Wedi involves...either way you've got to cut some concrete out. Your dpm looks to me like its under the first 2 layers of eps so its 300 deep...you won't break the dpm. Why is chopping some eps 'not on'....surely cutting the concrete is the PITA. Where is your shower waste cast through your slab, and what size pipe ....is it in the exact spot you now want the tray waste to be?

Back in summer I got through fine and had a very un-rushed and productive conversation with them...so i'd guess it was just bad timing for you.

For clarity, while @vivienz is correct re our houses being sheltered, in my case my vents come out of the flat roof which is totally exposed to the prevailing wind. Another observation re benefit of mvhr; nye party of 33 people dancing eating and drinking for 7 hours, detritus left overnight.....following morning wife comments on freshness of atoms’ in house.

Our blue 32mm pipe rises externally and converts to brass in order to penetrate the house, go through a stop tap, then converts to Maincor mlcp which threads 7m through utility room pozi's (currently not lagged and only half the sound insulation in the joists, but the utility is a steady 21deg'), then converts to brass to drop down wall into hard and soft supplies. The closest hard water cold tap after this point is a further 20m at least...which is maincor mlcp lagged. The only joints from stop tap to getting out of wall the tap is on are the two mlcp-brass junctions. No problem with tepid temperatures at all. Also option 2 has got to be cheaper than moling. Do consider your aesthetic solution to running the external pipe up the side of the house to pozi height...or come inside low into a cupboard then run up.

It might just be the underfloor heating that's my waste of money. The mvhr is proving so efficient I never get to turn it on.

Welcome. Here's a qickie for ya; My heatmiser neostat V2, of which I have 6 plus 1 hw version, all reset the time in the event of a momentary power cut. I believe they should have a memory. It's exceedingly tedious. What might be wrong? Also one area that has historically been the subject of much discussion on here is the Sunamp products (just wap that in the search bar). For me and I think some others a massive barrier to this system lies with the lack of knowledgeable advisers and installers. There are a number of owners on here with significant acquired experience of them but we're thin on trusted suppliers to specify, install and troubleshoot/maintain them. I backed out of the system in great part because there seemed only one viable person whom I could contract, and that one wasn't actually viable to me. So it would be good for you to declare if/what you can bring to the table re Sunamp? Thanks

I'm not questioning anyone's personal experiences. I gave up my search late August this year after following up every referral made here in previous threads on this type of topic. Buidhub no, Protek no, Hiscox no, Quoterack no, GSI no, etc etc. I didn't just take no from these organisations 'basic call handlers'...I elevated my enquiry such that it got proper attention, for example through numerous departments at GSI and approaching the problem from different standpoints.....for example asset protection rather than contents insurance. I went to a couple of brokers to source something, no. ...sorry i mean to say more but have to go.....

But did you make clear to them (contents insurer)you didn’t have comp cert? From my experience it seems they’d take it for granted, until you claim, then ask for it and subsequently invalidate your claim when you couldn’t produce it. @Caroline if you do get (valid)contents ins I’d love to know....I went to some lengths trying, but failed. I’m not optimistic for you, sorry.

My electrician used 3 x 1 on mine (heatmiser neostat v2)

If he owns the property when you make him the loan then you can have a 1st charge over the property which guarantees you are 1st in line to have your loan repaid if the property is liquidated. You can specify the terms of the loan such that a default would give you the right to call in the loan, forcing him to sell to liquidate and pay you. So you are covered in the event of his death or incapacity, or indeed just a falling out. The loan agreement is simple, it just identifies the loan and the terms. The repayment date will need some thinking about for you as gaining successful pp is not a clearly identified moment...'repayable on demand' could be good enough but if you die and your estate calls in the asset he'll have to sell, possibly cheap....so if you are loaning him 100% of the purchase you might not get it all back. You might not care though if you're dead. Also if he has a mortgage on his part of this whole plot/property that'll have the first charge....if you set up your loan on 1st charge before he secures his mortgage that might jeopardise it. You need a solicitor.

The minimum temp I can set on the stat that is on the manifold controlling flow temp is 30 so thats what i've had it at. Only been using ufh for the last week though so i'm no expert. It's been enough so far but for some reason tonight i'm cold so am upping to 35 in hope it will speed the lift in room temp.

We have a Tapworks water softener, mains supplied water, moved in same time as you @vivienz , no mould so far.

SPAB is oriented to ancient buildings, so flint in that context will have been laid with 'proper' lime mortar, so shouldn't then be pointed with cement. Ask one of the big flint block makers like https://southdownsflint.com/about/ what they are setting their flints into...

My Zender q350 does this, and i'm addicted to constantly checking the external/supply/extract/exhaust air temperatures with it. It's been really interesting as we've used no other heating so far, so to see how effective mvhr is (beyond expectations) at maintaining fresh but warm air. @pocsterhot return is pipe out of tank bottom right in pic, goes through red lever into brass pump, above that is (i think its called a thermal switch?) white box monitoring pipe temp....when pipe cools to a set temp it triggers pump (except its wired via a timer too so it'll only pump at set times).

Yes.

Ok, this is onto flint blocks and not lime, however he's told me the technique would be same just a different mix for lime. My choice of nailpointing to make the stone 'pop' is optional. Someone good would think in terms of doing 6sqm a day. Put as much muck in as gets you to the middle of the day, then go to the earliest stuff and wire brush, nail point, then soft brush. (The video is of my upper floor which is using standard yellow sand but white cement, the final photo shows lower floor which is 5 white sand, 1 lime,1 white cement.) pointing.mp4

I only knapped a few bits under instruction from my block worker, but using his knapping hammer it was easy to make a successful strike. The harder bit was identifying where to strike...he'd get it right 6 out of 7 times, id get it 1 out of 3. Unfortunately i dont recall the rule for where to strike now. His hammer was fairly short handled, not that heavy, and had a 'flat blade' head akin to an inch wide bolster. EDIT; it was called a scotch hammer. put the underside of your flint against the edge of a block where you want it to split, hit the top where you want it to split. 2017-08-23_11_34_44.mov

Yeah, I recall they covered theelectricclassiccarco 911 a couple years ago...that was my first point of inspiration. What's your plan with the flint? You could give it to one of the flintblock makers to put through a guillotine and save a lot of ache.

Before you started building your house were you bored? Personally after 2 years building i'm now looking to get back all my old hobbies which the demands of building has deprived me. Never again will I enter into a project that is (structured in a way that is) so all consuming. I do fancy converting a car to electric and had tucked a 944 away for the purpose...i'd be starting from an even more naive point than I did with building, but there'd be no urgency to it.

This thread is a tad mystifying. I don’t know what I’m missing but it’s content doesn’t seem to inform why a representative of the FMG and mod team should choose to publicly slap down an established forum member in this manner. I don’t actually know Sensus, but I’ve been at the wrong end of his responses and found their tone superior and intolerant, so it surprises me to find myself coming to his defence. However, an obnoxous tone doesn’t invalidate the information provided alongside.....and I do consider sensus as credible a source of information as any on the forum. Should that information fall short of comprehensive but act as a prompt to dig further, then fine by me. Was Nickfromwales speaking with Buildhubs voice???

I have them due to straight sections of wall separated by full height windows...so walls not turning corners are less stable.

you can set it up without it becoming 'actionable'(can't remember the correct term) so if your mum never loses mental capacity it wouldn't be relevant.....if she did, then someone's going to be making decisions on her behalf, she cant escape that fact.

If the senders initials are SK then do expect some frustrations, and check quotes/confirmations with an absolute fine tooth comb!! I suspect its a timing thing, you caught them busy, ...and combined with your enquiry being 'general' rather than specific and not sounding like an imminent order...they sacrificed you in order to work on stronger prospects. Feel free to pm me if I might be able to answer your enquiries re futura, I have F+i & both types of sliders.

No, keep oblong box room but make its big window a bay in a cheese wedge shape....bad example here but 1st I could find in a hurry;