mvincentd

@albert maybe worth noting from the example images given above that Onoff has the advantage of the supportive red tray so his ufh pipes not following the line of the mesh is unimportant, whereas the others do as far as possible stick to the mesh lines. The more instances of pipe spanning the middle of a 200mm square unsupported, the more vulnerability to a clumsy wellie etc' you have.

The point of plastic tubes is to thermally break the fixing, whereas long wood screws represent hundreds of little thermal bridges.

Snowcrete and 'light' sand with a dash of lime....and Marmite for colour reference (+ral 7021 door). To my eye the sand itself was yellow grey and distinctly pale when aside a standard sand, but in isolation I wouldn't think to describe it as white sand...it wasn't silica arena sand. When I wanted to use leftover snowcrete to haunch a kerb in my brickie was reluctant as he had reservations about it's strength. We've only used it for the pointing.

August 2017 I was quoted £4750 for design & supply of Comfoair q350 based system + £350 to commission ( I believe the designing element represented £350). My ducting system is a bit different so i'd think you probably can just go out and buy your materials for £3000ish. The Comfocool system was quoted at £9500...it not only required the addition of the Comfocool unit but also using all pre-insulated ducting and using the larger q600 mvhr.....for the sake of some not particularly effective cooling. I installed it all myself and am currently running it 'uncommissioned'....i'm expecting to fork out the £350 commissioning fee just to buy off the feeling that I might not have set it up to get the best out of it, but if you're not at all bamboozled by this document then I reckon you can do it all yourself. ComfoAir_Q_2018_(merged).pdf

Indeed, maybe no reason but certainly Ideal Combi refused me a low-e/opaque combination saying either/or, so perhaps is worth people being alert to checking their chosen supplier does work with it.

Even undisturbed chalk will put a sludgy sticky mess under foot when wet, and will be an ice rink in deep winter. I've had a chalk drive for 2 winters and am thrilled to have just gravelled it.

I have 2 opaque units that are within 0.15 of their equivalent clear ones. (I do recall wanting ‘Low e’ glass for one of them due to its size and position, but was told it’s ‘either or’)

solid core oak from £50 https://www.leaderdoors.co.uk/doors-c14/internal-doors-c111/oak-internal-doors-c119/internal-oak-unfinished-pattern-10-door-iopat10-p51732 I always keep an eye on these guys having purchased 7 engineered wood doors from them at £10 each (+ £60 delivery) and finding them to be really solid, easily 25kg each.

Ah, the simple explanations are the best! So according to your accurate independent sensors, you get pretty well zero uplift when new air passes through the unit on bypass? In which case i'll ignore the readouts on the unit because they were leading me to believe the mvhr was less helpful against our overheating than open windows currently! Thanks

Clearly the depth at which you set the staple from the front edge of the battens will dictate a certain amount of cavity behind the cladding still, but much reduced. I think I actually economised on staples by only fixing into the top of the battens, so the mesh then pulled round the batten and down to the next one slightly pissed off the vertical.

During 100% bypass how much temperature increase should I expect to see between 'external air temp' and 'supply air temp' (as measured by the unit...at the unit)? I'm typically seeing 'supply air temp' at 2 degrees higher than 'outdoor air temp' when bypass is 100%. To be clear, what the unit is measuring as 'outdoor air temperature' can only be outdoor air that has travelled approx 5m through ducting to the point of entry to the unit. It had been suggested to me that the house was warming the incoming air along its approx 5m journey. While this might happen it surely cannot be the explanation why the unit identifies that 2 degree difference, given there are no sensors up any ducting outside the unit itself. (It would seem academic to this question how well the routes to air are insulated, but for the record they are insulated to spec'.) So, between fresh air entering the unit and it bypassing the heat exchanger to leave the unit as supply air, it is gaining 2 degrees. As I write this the house is currently 23.4 degrees in the utility room where the mvhr unit is and 23.7 in the main living/kitchen/diner area, both according to Heatmiser wall stats. The mvhr says; outdoor air 19 supply air 21 extract air 24.5 exhaust air 24 bypass 100% I've set the mvhr to its 'cool' lifestyle setting and dialled the settings default temperature down to its minimum of 18 degrees. Thanks

I guess all units differ but maybe dig around in the menu....mine has status-energy-power consumption-avoided heating/avoided cooling-total savings.

Wall, membrane (uv stable if you can find some), battens, insect mesh (uv stable), cladding. If you're really concerned about the mesh/cladding contact then fix it to the sides rather than the front of the battens so that its effectively stepped back.

Notwithstanding the above I’d budget £25k

@ryder72 how did you resolve this in the end? @worldwidewebs those buildings/contents insurance details would be useful please? Without a BC completion cert' I can extend my Protek site insurance and live there, however I cannot find anyone to give contents insurance. The part of my house i'm moving into is physically fully complete and the unfinished part is partitioned off and at 1st Fix stage.

I’ve found this too and so don’t use my 152 with then, preferring controllable slow speed drill driver

I dumped 12 builders bags of pb offcuts last week at the recycling centre at £2.50 per bag....in favour of putting them in the 6 yard skip i currently have, which would have charged an additional £100 over the standard £245 it's costing me. I've had 2 x 3yd skips and this one 6yd during my build so far. I also go to the recycling centre every couple of weeks or so, often making 2 trips in the same day. I mentioned to hem at an early stage i was self building a 'whole house' and would be along a lot.....they said no limits and have never challenged me. That's Dorset.

He said Alwitra, and given the sloping insulation spec I’d guess it’s warm roof construction....possibly in line with rest of house. So maybe the insulation has to be outside the deck if at all. I’d guess if tell architect to ditch insulation he’ll do a condensation risk analysis if any doubts.

My architects also seemed to have particular difficulty unhooking themselves from the idea of future proofing the garage roof. I think they see it as a harder retrofit than insulating the walls.

I'm finding that inside the need for accuracy and neatness of finish is amplified (...and i'm aiming at a rough industrial finish) but it's having to be reached while accommodating all the inaccuracies that crept in during the earlier core construction. Things therefore get 'fiddly' and time consuming way beyond the armchair theory of how long they're going to take. I've been working alone which is painfully slow and I think counterproductive to achieving that neatness and accuracy.....a second pair of hands would not make things happen twice as fast but more like 4 or 5 times as fast. Continuing this way I reckon easily 5 months more for me (rather more if/when I run out of money for materials/fittings), but if I could open a magic wallet there wouldn't be more than 2 weeks for any individual trade...I could buy it done in a month. So in answer to your question....you pay your money and take your choice. My word of caution is that if you're looking to finish cheap on your own, set a cautious deadline and allow for regular time off as many have said. However unpalatably distant that deadline then becomes, suck it up....it's better than working 6.5 days a week, 11+ hours a day.

Leader doors £48 white primed cottage; https://www.leaderdoors.co.uk/doors-c14/internal-doors-c111/white-internal-doors-c124/internal-white-primed-cottage-door-libwmcot-p54156

I'm also doing this in a few areas and will mostly use visible fasteners and make a feature of them. Something useful i'd not been aware of until seeing them (at 6:55) in this video is screws with reversing threads at the top, which enable balancing any thickness variances that might throw the flush faces of adjacent panels off.

I ended up taking the pb off and adding 12mm ply beneath......adequate, not good. If I ever encounter this again I will embed the pocket into a stud construction and accept the resultant thick wall.

I do appear to have a resolution with the fitment of a different style of sill. For anyone getting a Hormann Thermo65 i'd suggest raising the sill choice question with your supplier and hope they're experienced enough to advise well. Hormann approve the S11 and S12 sills for this door. The S12 was fastidiously refitted numerous times but plain failed to provide adequate sealing to keep rain out. The S11 appears to have worked. My fitters (acknowledged by Hormann to be amongst the most experienced in the uk with their products) actually said "if the S11 resolves the excessive water issue this will undoubtedly highlight a problem with the S12 to Hörmann!" Hopefully Hormann will modify their compatibility charts etc..meanwhile i'd advise not to buy this door with a S12.

Not lots of luck ,no. I have generally looked to blame myself first and foremost for all the hiccups in the build, but when stock items on a supply and fit basis are perpetually failing on me I do wonder if it's just a curse! Despite all this i'd still (and have) recommend the skylight company. They are being extremely helpful, including trying to help mitigate the costs. It is their only shortcoming that they are clinging to the warranty terms. That much is disappointing, though I do have fair confidence now that I will ultimately win a claim.