mvincentd

Is your concern that he ‘borrowed’ the drawings...or that you might end up with an identikit house next door after going to the trouble of having something distinctive and personal designed? I might save my powder given the relative insignificance of the former (and relative ease with which he could modify in a very minor way and circumvent), in anticipation of lodging a planning objection which might ultimately bring about a more significantly adjusted design. (Not withstanding of course maybe circumstances are such that it’s a safer bet having a matching house next door)

Whilst I’m quite anti going to the trouble of building an aesthetically bog standard house I do think that if this is the only ‘divergent’ angle it may prove visually awkward/pleasing in equal measure. You could look at flipping to a contemporary bay window there, possibly even at a ‘cheese wedge’ angle thereby maintaining the constructionally simpler oblong at floor and roof intersections.

Looks like evalon uses heat welded joints like sarnafil. I had a 4" length of weld that....wasn't welded. Sloppy installation, although easy to understand how it could happen....it's unskilled mind numbing work, but does require absolute fastidiousness, so if the phone goes while your at it and its the wife wanting a divorce it's easy to see how a fitter might falter. Check you cant push something like a very blunt bradawl under any part of the welds. I assume its membrane, insulation, vcl, deck....so if water has got through the membrane it will drop to the vcl, but thats near as dammit waterproof so the water will then run along the fall until it finds a failing in the vcl through which to soak the deck.....probably in a totally different area to the membrane fail. If your leak is at the extreme low edge of the fall; I believe my current leak will prove to be where the vcl turns up the side of the stop-edge that borders the roof edge which is the low side of the fall...I remember the vcl was installed with varying degrees of radius here rather than being tucked hard against the 90 degree turn, so there would be unsupported bits of vcl with pockets of air in effect, which I think could viably be punctured by the square edged insulation when laid. If the puncture wasn't entirely at deck level but say 6mm up then my vcl could be holding substantial water built up over time and only now overflowing each time it rains. None of which informs where the actual membrane leak is.

whats the roof make-up? what stage of construction is it at where the leak is manifesting...ie are you seeing a wet underside of roof deck or are you seeing wet ceiling plaster?? Where water is coming-out is one thing, where its going in is another....as I'm sure you appreciate. Apparently the accuracy is not really so good as to provide any truly comprehensive reassurance but it will serve to pick up some installation errors. On tuesday my sarnafil installers will attempt to identify the source of my second leak and i'm bracing myself for the need to possibly remove half of the green roof growing medium (approx 6 tons) and put it 'somewhere'!

Have your requests pointed out to them that as a vat registered entity actively collecting vat they have a legal obligation to provide properly formatted vat receipts and that you intend to inform hmrc that they are not in compliance with this.

Good news. I love how dark our village is...only 1 streetlight in the whole village...it was the biggest surprise moving here from a city. There has just been dpp granted for a new cafe in an old barn in our village and has to have 'storm doors' that close over the skylights, with the dark sky reserve in mind. .........it also hasn't been permitted windows looking onto the aonb....uh???

Given you've already wired to thermostat positions (are the back boxes on?) you can start by using as a single zone and if dont like then just cut through to the back boxes and put stats on. You'll also need to add actuators to the manifold and a wiring hub alongside it. I've used Heatmiser neostat v2's and neohubs. I've 2 manifolds with 4 and 7 loops from which i've created 6 zones (stats). The kit and caboodle to do this cost ballpark £650 plus (from the stage you're at now) it'll be an electricians day to hook it all up. Slightly off your topic Viv, I wonder if those promoting a single zone approach would do so almost regardless of house layout? I'm dealing with essentially a long bungalow with one half being bedrooms and the other being a single open plan live/dine/kitchen, and historically we never actively heat bedrooms(though they've always been upstairs so benefitted from rising heat).

theory is that if it starts a certain thickness and its backing is peeled off it will then expand into the gap....which needs to not be larger than would require only a partial expansion of the compriband....and indeed keep a partial compression of the compriband. If it fully expands then the compriband won't be compressed and won't achieve it's optimum capabilities of 'watertightness'. Use the right size for the gap you have, eg; for 7-12mm gap the compriband on the roll is 5mm. It doesn't go hard, remains spongy. It is impregnated though and I wouldn't expect it to be waterlogged like a sponge even a fully freely expanded offcut lying around......maybe cheap imitation of compriband not impregnated? (all this is just my limited experience of using it on my one build).

@Russell griffiths how did you do it.....as I think you had a similar (50mm) jump;

If your water is hard factor in a water softener...locally electric shower units last about 12-18 months on the hard water before needing replacement!

hah.....i've had to write to the parish council to ask them to stop referring to ours as such. Everyone in the village who meets me tells me i'm building one. Such is the understanding of 'eco'....having a green roof is next to godliness. This despite the hardly covert way in which i've thundered 150 lorry loads of muck away through the village and brought in 10 lorry loads of concrete.

Controversial but what might be easier and equally ecological is to scrap the green roof, doubling the runoff you could harvest with which to water the rest of the garden! It's a lot of bother for what if you don't have any particularly good vantage points from which to enjoy it. I have similar but 12mm deep drainage mat. Combined with the gentle fall you're not going to experience great waves of water rushing back to meet that coming off the pitched tile roof.

No idea in your area, and i'd hesitate to recommend the ones I used anyway. I'm no expert but many/most membranes are fixed under a flat metal bar wherever they turn over an edge and that bar needs to screw into something robust, plus the edge needs to be stable so a boot while cleaning out the gutter cant crush or otherwise damage it...you might argue 12mm osb bonded to the pir and so lining it does the job...and your edpm manufacturer/fitter might be happy with that.....i was just using it as an example of details to not guess at, but consult early with the edpm, because If you're just buying firestone rubber and sticking it up there yourself thats one thing, but if you're after a long term insurance backed warranty it'll come at the cost of the preparations for the membrane being done to a spec'.

And I believe you have to go from pir to xps in order to use this method due to being 'in water'....so thickness for equivalent u-value increases significantly.

I don't think thats where you want the dew point to be. You've designed a hybrid roof which is generally undesirable due to it moving the dew point down. 600mm joist spacing.....12mm osb deck for a green roof? You may not necessarily need the top osb though, depending on your edpm spec. Your 1st gutter was scary, your 2nd is better but i'd strongly suggest if you want a worthwhile flat roof warranty get a supplier to collaborate with you on this design detail at the outset....they'll have critical details you'll have to adhere to, like having a robust stop-edge where the edpm rolls into the gutter...so replace that vertical osb with a 4x2. As Russell said, years of misery if you get this roof junction wrong. fyi, most recommendations are for 100mm minimum growing medium for wildflower....we're doing ok with 70mm which is a money and weight saver. Charles Fentiman here http://www.greenroofsubstrates.co.uk/ultralite_substrate.html is good.

Sure...it is limited aesthetically, though they can achieve 'tile effect' ( https://www.westwood-uk.com/news/balcony/full-pmma-waterproofing-system-with-fantastic-tile-effect.html ), but wouldn't really be able to convincingly match an interior tile.

A possible alternative might be westwood-uk.com ,they're in Poole. Subject to you're being ok with the aesthetic I think they could potentially achieve in one thin product what your edpm, pedestals & tiles do.....notwithstanding leaving you with the 1:40, which depending on your use of these terraces may/not be an issue.

Do you mean GSI ? Did you successfully get a specialist policy?.....via who? Due to lack of completion cert' we have been refused contents insurance...i've tried loads of providers including 'specialists'. I've tried 'asset insurance' to no avail too. With Protek my build insurance has been extended multiple times without problem...the last time it actually expired for 2 weeks before i got around to renewing/extending it. It also remains valid if i live in the build.

Compared to what others? I have both sarna and bauder roofs. Quotes ranged from £56K to £34k all by suppliers on sika's approved list, for exactly the same job (the spec is supplied by sika and then the roofing co' execute it, using most likely whichever freelancer they found available that held the appropriate ticket to work with that material). So i'd say get multiple quotes as it seems price fluctuates wildly with motivation.

I think if you put PIR in the joist space of a warm flat roof you'll need to research hybrid roofs to ensure you're not heading for issues with interstitial condensation. You'll probably uncover numerous historical posts on here if you do a search. If you mean just to put the PIR in the external overhang part, that's ok. I regret not discovering the 'tony tray' in time as it makes relatively light work of making the joist space airtight, which can otherwise be 'fiddly' depending on how everything is detailed. This factor alone might turn me against posi's that 'shoot through' (making Tony tray impossible), in favour of a separate 'bolt-on' structure, perhaps based on some custom metal brackets given the 1.2m size.

Brace yourself...not sure it's gonna be £50. I was connected only 3 weeks ago and the bill was....£70!

I picked the links at random to illustrate the items....actually in my case I had 150mm diameter ducting so got the appropriate 'reducer' to fit that and go onto I believe a 160mm version of the chimney.

I appreciate your flagging the concern, especially given the Genvex 3m requirement and my picture, however i'm on a Zehnder q350 and it states 1.5m minimum. Had I gone for a unit with a 3m requirement i'd have had real problems meeting it....anyway I had to introduce two undesirable 90 degree turns in the ducting through the joist space to achieve the 2.2m Use of a MAICO KWH as suggested by this passivehaus consultant would have enabled me to keep dead straight runs both in and out of the unit....but something tells me you wouldn't concur with his advice! http://www.heatspaceandlight.com/space-mvhr-ducts-tight-combined-intake-exhaust-grille-solution/

I think they're 2.2m apart, which is fine with regs, in excess of my mvhr design recommendations, and acceptable to me given the exhaust air is only air that had been in my house anyway. Obviously the further apart the better but routing the ducts internally can be a minefield and there's a playoff in achieving external separation at the cost of sending the ducts through more contortions internally to achieve it.

i have this https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/ubbink-oft5-insulated-flat-roof-vent-terminal-180mm-diameter-black.html ....and a reducer like this https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/reducer-167-149-for-pipe-connections.html to get into my ducting. I've picked those links at random but all different diameters available at https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/browse/ventilation/flat-roof-vents-extraction/flat-roof-extraction.html Tin top hat supposed to go atop insulation below membrane (assuming a warm flat roof) but roofers weren't concerned with using it. pic installed here