Adam2

@dpmiller did you do your screed in the end on the Caberdeck? If so how would you contrast the sound-proof/solid feel of this to a concrete floor?

OK so there are 2 push release catches inside after pulling out filter. I found this after forcing the cover off ? At least the other one I need to replace will be easier

Ahh that looks good. I was less interested in hollowcore planks due to the irregular floor areas and difficulties in delivery due to site access but these could be good - will research some more.

The fan has stopped - about 12 years' old so time to go to fan recycling heaven/wherever. Only issue is that there is no obvious way to remove the outer cover! No screws, no obvious leverage points, even tried a very hard pull with a pipe wrench and not coming off. Before I start battering it and messing up the WC ceiling - does anyone recognise this and have a suggestion for removal technique??? Thanks

I'm looking at upper floor make up along these lines: 20mm tiles 70mm screed 50mm EPS with UFH attached 200mm concrete (in-situ or planks TBC) 100mm service void 12.5mm plasterboard If I put the UFH in the concrete (assuming in-situ concrete) looks like I would save 120mm in floor thickness at the cost of less insulation between floors. The main part of the house is 3 floors will be using ASHP for UFH and MVHR. Would appreciate thoughts on removal of EPS & screed : sensible or crazy ? or of course of there is a different make up I should be looking at. Thanks

What will you have inside the doors by way of blinds or curtains? If you have something planned now (or may in the future) having a dropped ceiling may be beneficial hiding the blind or curtain track so that would need the corresponding wall above the doors. We're not expecting to have internal blinds for some sliding door areas initially but will leave a gap between the dropped ceiling and wall above the sliding doors to allow for this (with power for automated blinds if we go that way).

We're thinking of a bio-ethanol fireplace like here : https://www.bioethanol-fireplace.co.uk/home_1996.html

Thanks - though I can only see that mentioned as a gas barrier, do you have a supplier contact that you could share ?

Hi @Triassic, what did you go with in the end? Re your question above - I expected you to need both parts, the stick on membrane and the dimpled plastic sheets against this to provide a drainage path when back-filled (dimples against the membrane) and also some protection against damaging the membrane. I'm also looking at an ICF basement (3 sides) and have been advised by Sika that they do not warranty their product for this due to issues re detailing slab to rear wall and concrete honeycombing - did you find a warrantied system or plan to not worry about warranty given the limited real-world value in this anyway?

I was at Internorm in N London recently and they do have the internal blinds there ( not that we're looking) - 3G unit, blind unit installed outside of the 3G with separate pane that opens up to allow easy cleaning/fixing etc etc.

Hi Jilly, I'm also getting quotes at the moment for 3G. Wide range of costs! My last one has £1,200 for silicone - made me laugh, though the overall price made my cry ? My current house has Velfac (2G) windows and 3 floors of french doors onto terraces - after 12 years they are OK still - only issues I had to deal with are in relation to fitting. Though there is some corrosion to the metal parts on the doors at the top and bottom - not sure what they are called but the bits that limit the opening size of french doors, we're near the sea so next doors I get I'll see what options there are for more durable metalwork.

Thanks for the really informative blogging - I'm sure I'll be back to look in detail as we progress.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and research @Sue B really interesting to read. I'm just along the coast from you I think in Boscombe, building in Parkstone. Also ICF enthusiasts, interested to see your concerns re fixing to the walls. I'd considered that and thought that for internal fixings we'd fix structural ply before fixing plasterboard for key areas in kitchen and bathroom. I am thinking now about exterior fixings as after render that isn't so obvious - thinking initially lighting but even simple things like hose reels in garden or in future who knows what. You can of course go through to the concrete but with ~75mm of EPS that isn't ideal and heavy items I'm a little concerned (maybe unnecessarily) about the pressure applied to the wall so will keep researching this. May even have a look at non-EPS/XPS options - we have rear walls which are below ground so need something that is appropriate (of course with waterproofing solution).

Agree re poll. Also been looking at Internorm - quite like the theory/marketing materials, the windows themselves would look like they should be well made so good to know if issues are all installer related which could affect any supplier's products

Hi @Alex C would you mind sharing some pics / info on where they came from please?

To see how we get on with the idea I just fitted a PIR as a switch replacement in downstairs WC (one from CP Electronics). This is reasonably discrete and also includes buttons to turn off/on. Initially you keep wanting to hit the button but a few days in and getting used to not thinking about it. Only small issue is that the switch location is not perfect for sensing door entry but generally comes on before you would hit the switch regardless. In our new build will happily go with no switches in bathrooms for certain lights. Am also experimenting with Fibaro sensors and light controls and aim to use these in other areas for light automation....lots of choices there but at least for bathrooms it seems that self contained PIR/light systems are cheap and work well without switches.

I really don't know - imagine the conversation not being a quick one! I find it strange, and a bit unreasonable for the CC company, to have to take full liability for something costing up to 30K just because you paid £100 on the card and the balance some other way. Having legal expenses insurance is probably a useful add-on to house insurance during times of significant procurement - assuming that covers enough eventualities that is. Buying from a company with a good reputation to protect that is hopefully going to still be in business to deliver your windows after you paid a deposit is probably the main priority - that and how they look of course.

This article on Section 75 and possible issues is worth a read if planning on relying on this: https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/news/2017/04/revealed-section-75-credit-card-protection-may-fail-due-to-payment-processing-loophole---shoppers-beware/

OK - leaving it on seems to have fixed it. Thanks for speedy input. It just needed to settle in to its new home. Quite pleased that my fledgling skills in this dept have worked out well - will have a surprised wife when she gets back this eve ?

Thanks - though the light end connection is just a simple connector block with no options to go wrong.

Left it off 10-20 mins. It's currently on so will try leaving it on for ~3 hours (LED so no issue) and see if it is OK, then I guess will switch off for a few hours.

Current house had an interesting previous owner ? screwed closed the letterbox, removed door bell and exterior light - guess didn't like company. Letterbox was no problem to fix of course. I'm now attending to the wall light and door bell. The helpful person just filled the K-rend with some ill-matched filler (lots of it) so looks pretty shabby. I bought a PIR equipped exterior light and managed to dig out the cable from the filler on the exterior wall. Fitted an extension to the existing wiring and connected in to the light - light though didn't function. Looked into the switch and found the cables had been cut there so reconnected. Tadaa, the light comes on but does not go off. Tried leaving light turned off for a while and then turning on but no joy still stays on, turned the light sensor down to min and still same. Is there anyway a light could be wired up so that it has power but stays on like this? I don't see how this could be but thought should ask to rule that out (or not). The switch for this light is on a double with the other switch being part of a dual control for the hallway lighting so a few cables in the box. (All lighting circuits were turned off prior to the above) Thanks for advice.

@ProDave, this seems a good insurance policy, can I ask what model you used please? I've had a look and the range is pretty big. Am thinking we'll go with ASHP for UFH & DHW so will have the risk of low temp DHW as the ASHP restores the cylinder temp. 3-4 person house with 3 bathrooms. Many of the in-line heaters seem to be for single outlet and prob designed to work off a cold input but I image the typical scenario for us will be a ~20 degree lift (usually hopefully doing nothing of course) so may not be exactly what they were designed for. Advice appreciated.

We had wide ranging estimates from 8K to (really!) 37K for a 4 bed house and large garage. Site is not easy as sloped and house effectively on 4 floors with limited side access. I guess the higher quotes didn't really want the work. Found more competitive quotes from smaller local contractors. We have sight of insurance policy scope/validity from preferred contractor which I think is quite important given the risks.

Also had a Howdens - really hate the way they price and then discount by 80% but ultimately worked out really well. I agree with what was said earlier - the fitter is so important, our builder did ours and he used a new chippie that was hopeless we had to get so much re-fitted. As long as you like the look of the cabinets/interiors etc etc then do what you can to check that the fitters are experienced with Wren and that they read fitting instructions for each appliance.